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The SMD DD-1 has a brother. His name is CC-1 (ninja pic2)


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it works like this. You have a frequency dial on the side of the amp. It might have numbers and dots. 30 then a dot, then a 50, then a dot, then 65, then a dot......and then 125 and another dot. You want your frequency to be set to 85hz on your bass amp. Well good luck with that. If you are like me, you put it where you THINK 85 is. Until now. With this, you put the disc in. You play the 85hz track. You turn up the volume on the deck till you see the signal light illuminate...then turn the dial on the amp till the CC-1 shows you are calibrated. Done. Now you are set EXACTLY where you want to be. While it may not be a life and death situation, its still nice to know exactly where you are at. Now if i have MULTIPLE bass amps, it would, IMO be MUCH more critical to get the frequency settings matched up exactly. That goes double if you have two amps on one woofer or a bunch of subs in one chamber. I dont know about you but i want all my amps playing the EXACT same signal, not just "close". Close only counts in hand-grenades and horseshoes.

Which brings me to the next AWESOME feature of this unit. You hit a few buttons and the LED's start flashing like the Vegas Strip, indicating you are in "gain matching mode". This is for people with multiple subwoofer amplifiers, like me (8 amps, 4 subs)

From here, you find your reference amp. The one putting out the most power with least distortion (use an SMD-DD-1 to determine that). Then you probe that amp, lock in the settings and move to the next amp. Turn up the gains on the next amp until it lights up the CC-1, indicating it MATCHES the first reference amp. Keep doing that until you are done with your last amp and then you are good to go, fully in sync! You can do that with a DMM, but This thing isnt just measuring voltage, it is measuring DB off of the output signal. Tony can explain exactly why we did it that way, and i hope he jumps in soon because he (as well as Juan) are the main-brains behind the operation as you can imagine :D :D

This is just another item in a long list of devices we are trying to come out with in the coming years.

thanks for tuning in to this post and showing interest!! that is what motivates us to keep doing this and we are VERY excited about the future! :popcorn: :popcorn:


All SMD products + MORE available at my store here! https://wccaraudio.com/ 
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and a gain matching mode. I need this.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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it works like this. You have a frequency dial on the side of the amp. It might have numbers and dots. 30 then a dot, then a 50, then a dot, then 65, then a dot......and then 125 and another dot. You want your frequency to be set to 85hz on your bass amp. Well good luck with that. If you are like me, you put it where you THINK 85 is. Until now. With this, you put the disc in. You play the 85hz track. You turn up the volume on the deck till you see the signal light illuminate...then turn the dial on the amp till the CC-1 shows you are calibrated. Done. Now you are set EXACTLY where you want to be. While it may not be a life and death situation, its still nice to know exactly where you are at. Now if i have MULTIPLE bass amps, it would, IMO be MUCH more critical to get the frequency settings matched up exactly. That goes double if you have two amps on one woofer or a bunch of subs in one chamber. I dont know about you but i want all my amps playing the EXACT same signal, not just "close". Close only counts in hand-grenades and horseshoes.

Which brings me to the next AWESOME feature of this unit. You hit a few buttons and the LED's start flashing like the Vegas Strip, indicating you are in "gain matching mode". This is for people with multiple subwoofer amplifiers, like me (8 amps, 4 subs)

From here, you find your reference amp. The one putting out the most power with least distortion (use an SMD-DD-1 to determine that). Then you probe that amp, lock in the settings and move to the next amp. Turn up the gains on the next amp until it lights up the CC-1, indicating it MATCHES the first reference amp. Keep doing that until you are done with your last amp and then you are good to go, fully in sync! You can do that with a DMM, but This thing isnt just measuring voltage, it is measuring DB off of the output signal. Tony can explain exactly why we did it that way, and i hope he jumps in soon because he (as well as Juan) are the main-brains behind the operation as you can imagine :D :D

This is just another item in a long list of devices we are trying to come out with in the coming years.

thanks for tuning in to this post and showing interest!! that is what motivates us to keep doing this and we are VERY excited about the future! :popcorn: :popcorn:

History lesson:

The gain matching mode of the CC-1 is in dBV. If you haven't heard of that terminology before, dBV stands for decibel volts. "d" lower case, stands for "deci" which is just a term meaning 10, in this case base 10. Base 10 means every 10dB is 10 times the power. (If you hit a 135dB with 200 watts, it will take 2000 watts to hit 145dB). Upper case "B" for the unit "Bel" named after Alexander Graham Bell. Upper case V for Volts named after the Italian physicist Alessandro Volta.

In the audio world when someone says dB they are usually referring to sound pressure. The fact is dB is just a unit of measure, like an inch. But it is a logarithmic unit of measure, like the Richter scale for measuring earthquakes. So as such it can be used to measure many things besides sound pressure. In the case of the CC-1 it is used to measure volts.

When gain matching with the CC-1, you can match your gains within 0.1dBV. So you ask why would you do it this way and not just in Volts like a voltmeter? Look at it this way: What is the difference between 1V and 1.1V? It's huge! It's a 10% difference! Ok how about the difference between 100V and 100.1V? It's so small it is insignificant, it's a 0.1% difference. So see you can't match your gains within 0.1V on your Fluke and expect the same results on any size amplifier. HOWEVER, matching using dBV it doesn't matter if your amp is 1 watt or 1,000,000 watts; 0.1dB is always the same percentage of error!

Trying my best to explain this in simple terms. Please ask questions if you don't fully understand it, I can try to explain it from a different angle.

For the Love of Audio

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Thanks for verifying, Steve, that it works the way I assumed. Can't wait to get one!!

no prob......and when we show you guys the video, it will make even more sense! Not to mention the lights make me salivate when i see them twinkle hahah.....ive always been a junkie for cool electronic gadgets especially with pretty lights.

thanks guys


All SMD products + MORE available at my store here! https://wccaraudio.com/ 
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I thought your RF's did this already? Or am I thinking of something else? Isn't it fairly easy to gain match amps? And why would you have to worry about the xovers on the other amps that are your slaves? If you do a "master/slave" setup, don't the slave follow the master amp? Just curious, and maybe it would help others too...

this is for OTHER people.....NOT running (modern) Rockford Fosgate Power T-series amps. ;) I gotta say, Rockford FOR THE WIN on this one. Everyone here doesnt run RF though so you guys arent as spoiled as i am. :shrug:

i used to gain match 8 BD1500's on 4 woofers before they came out with the T series amps. That was so much fun! (not) lol.

I think tony explained why a DMM isnt as good as the CC-1 for matching output. (the difference between just measuring AC volts, and DB)


All SMD products + MORE available at my store here! https://wccaraudio.com/ 
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right like me. I have orion 2500s that are not strappable. Well not without smoke. I am the target demographic for this.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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Share on other sites

it works like this. You have a frequency dial on the side of the amp. It might have numbers and dots. 30 then a dot, then a 50, then a dot, then 65, then a dot......and then 125 and another dot. You want your frequency to be set to 85hz on your bass amp. Well good luck with that. If you are like me, you put it where you THINK 85 is. Until now. With this, you put the disc in. You play the 85hz track. You turn up the volume on the deck till you see the signal light illuminate...then turn the dial on the amp till the CC-1 shows you are calibrated. Done. Now you are set EXACTLY where you want to be. While it may not be a life and death situation, its still nice to know exactly where you are at. Now if i have MULTIPLE bass amps, it would, IMO be MUCH more critical to get the frequency settings matched up exactly. That goes double if you have two amps on one woofer or a bunch of subs in one chamber. I dont know about you but i want all my amps playing the EXACT same signal, not just "close". Close only counts in hand-grenades and horseshoes.

Which brings me to the next AWESOME feature of this unit. You hit a few buttons and the LED's start flashing like the Vegas Strip, indicating you are in "gain matching mode". This is for people with multiple subwoofer amplifiers, like me (8 amps, 4 subs)

From here, you find your reference amp. The one putting out the most power with least distortion (use an SMD-DD-1 to determine that). Then you probe that amp, lock in the settings and move to the next amp. Turn up the gains on the next amp until it lights up the CC-1, indicating it MATCHES the first reference amp. Keep doing that until you are done with your last amp and then you are good to go, fully in sync! You can do that with a DMM, but This thing isnt just measuring voltage, it is measuring DB off of the output signal. Tony can explain exactly why we did it that way, and i hope he jumps in soon because he (as well as Juan) are the main-brains behind the operation as you can imagine :D :D

This is just another item in a long list of devices we are trying to come out with in the coming years.

thanks for tuning in to this post and showing interest!! that is what motivates us to keep doing this and we are VERY excited about the future! :popcorn: :popcorn:

I thought your RF's did this already? Or am I thinking of something else? Isn't it fairly easy to gain match amps? And why would you have to worry about the xovers on the other amps that are your slaves? If you do a "master/slave" setup, don't the slave follow the master amp? Just curious, and maybe it would help others too...

also....just because there is 7 slaves doesnt mean i dont have to find the correct frequency on at LEAST the first amp (master). I dont need to gain match though, or set frequency on any other amp but the master. RF handles that nicely. :pardon:


All SMD products + MORE available at my store here! https://wccaraudio.com/ 
wc2022-red-black-whitebg_1667625898__08138.original.png.02e514af82dce531edf1aa4a36851c60.png

Subscribe to My Youtube Channel! Over 1,000,000 subscribers strong! Turn on your notifications!
http://www.youtube.com/meade916

 

Follow My Instagram! Daily live feeds from the shop, exclusive content way before it hits my Youtube channel...and little squares with photo's in them :D
http://www.instagram.com/meade916

The Official SMD Facebook fan Page
https://www.facebook.com/SteveMeadeDesigns/

Follow my Tweet (Twitter)
http://www.Twitter.com/meade916
 

 

 

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