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Posted (edited)

two Fi Q 18"s and a shit load of Polk MM6501

I could only fit a Mechman 200. Big 3. 2 positive and 1 negative runs. three Kinetik 1400. And planning on getting a DC 7.5k to run at 2 ohm, and most likely there will be some rise, so I'd like to be running at 4 ohm.

Titebond or Guerilla Glue?

Edited by monkeyleg

Google it

Posted

two Fi Q 18"s and a shit load of Polk MM6501

I could only fit a Mechman 200. Big 3. 2 positive and 1 negative runs. three Kinetik 1400. And planning on getting a DC 7.5k to run at 2 ohm, and most likely there will be some rise, so I'd like to be running at 4 ohm.

Titebond or Guerilla Glue?

I've been using titebond for all my enclosures. But I think guerilla glue would be pretty good as well.

Wouldn't running that much power to a set of Q's be a little scary?

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Posted

don't waste your $$$ on gorilla glue, doesn't bond very well. Titebond II or Elmer's pro will work fine.

Get your cuts close and use caulk to seal up the inside. Should be no need for FG and resin for your wall.

Mids would be no different there then a panel over the wall. If you move enough air the sound from the mids might get distorted on some songs no matter where you put them.

Posted

I feel like your subs would man handle your mids if they were there.

if the mids are in an enclosure within the enclosure i wouldnt think it'd harm the mids at all.

2x sundown audio sa 12's

Crescendo BC2000

kinetik 1800, 1400.

Rockford punch 5,25 component set

MB QUART ONYX 4.80

Mechman 270a alt

Posted

titebond actually bonds the wood together. Gorilla glue just sticks them together. Also, the big 3 is 1 positive and two different negative runs. Never hurts to use 2 positive runs from alt to batt though

Posted

titebond actually bonds the wood together. Gorilla glue just sticks them together. Also, the big 3 is 1 positive and two different negative runs. Never hurts to use 2 positive runs from alt to batt though

Gotcha. Learning something new every day. After doing it wrong of course lol.

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