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obsidian 18


bass_stalker

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so lets get one thing straight i value being able to ask the guy designing and building the sub why the hell they did this or that. So in that spirit here are my concerns

1. How much of the desinging did you do yourself.

2. why did you use a pole vent in this situation

3. how does that super scientific i listened to it on the way home testing actually apply to the end user.

4. how much profit do you actually turn per sub gross and net.

5. if the sub is rated for 600watts and you adamantly stand behind that rating why would you show the scores it does on a 3500 watt amp.

6. its a "600" watt sub why the stupid high mms

First of all thank you for asking questions. :)

1) 100%

2) I used a pole vent because the way the cooling operates the pole vent expels air after the basket vents suck clean/cool air in and bring it around the coil and former.

3) I have been in the industry for 11 years and involved in the hobby for 22+ years. I have a good ear and I use it to listen to how the driver(s) perform. And what other better way to relate to end users than to listen to the driver in question installed in a real world situation in an actual daily driven car?

4) I respectfully decline from answering that. I don't ask other companies their profit margins and I do not divulge mine. I assure you it's less than what people elude to.

5) A driver rated for 600 watts usually has 1200+ watts thrown at it all day long. Raring it at a true 600 watts RMS is safe to where the driver will NOT fail if sent 600 watts RMS full tilt for a 2 hour+ time period.

6)18" subwoofer owners want one thing more than any other - TONS of low end. This driver is a low end monster. And if that entails losing 2 dB in efficiency so be it. Power is cheap, so if you want it loud buy a big amp.

Electrodynamic

Power handling is not a power requirement! Don't install suckage!

Simon Eichenberger is the man.

My PM's are disabled.

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Its really to bad I cant say what I want to say, however I will say this though, I sure hope your attitude and customer service aren't like this in the real world, cause I wouldnt buy a crayon from you.

Again, and this is the last time I will point this out, YOU made the accusation first, not me. So back up your erroneous claim or stop posting bile. Plain and simple.

Electrodynamic

Power handling is not a power requirement! Don't install suckage!

Simon Eichenberger is the man.

My PM's are disabled.

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Its really to bad I cant say what I want to say, however I will say this though, I sure hope your attitude and customer service aren't like this in the real world, cause I wouldnt buy a crayon from you.

Again, and this is the last time I will point this out, YOU made the accusation first, not me. So back up your erroneous claim or stop posting bile. Plain and simple.

:rofl:

I love my staffie :good:

So anti FACEBOOK it isn't even funny

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so lets get one thing straight i value being able to ask the guy designing and building the sub why the hell they did this or that. So in that spirit here are my concerns

1. How much of the desinging did you do yourself.

2. why did you use a pole vent in this situation

3. how does that super scientific i listened to it on the way home testing actually apply to the end user.

4. how much profit do you actually turn per sub gross and net.

5. if the sub is rated for 600watts and you adamantly stand behind that rating why would you show the scores it does on a 3500 watt amp.

6. its a "600" watt sub why the stupid high mms

First of all thank you for asking questions. :)

1) 100%

2) I used a pole vent because the way the cooling operates the pole vent expels air after the basket vents suck clean/cool air in and bring it around the coil and former.

3) I have been in the industry for 11 years and involved in the hobby for 22+ years. I have a good ear and I use it to listen to how the driver(s) perform. And what other better way to relate to end users than to listen to the driver in question installed in a real world situation in an actual daily driven car?

4) I respectfully decline from answering that. I don't ask other companies their profit margins and I do not divulge mine. I assure you it's less than what people elude to.

5) A driver rated for 600 watts usually has 1200+ watts thrown at it all day long. Raring it at a true 600 watts RMS is safe to where the driver will NOT fail if sent 600 watts RMS full tilt for a 2 hour+ time period.

6)18" subwoofer owners want one thing more than any other - TONS of low end. This driver is a low end monster. And if that entails losing 2 dB in efficiency so be it. Power is cheap, so if you want it loud buy a big amp.

2. Really thats how it works huh? Looks more like you and your best buddy knocked off the way fi blocks off the pole vents with the bp power option you know the aluminum hunk on top of the plate that you "borrowed"

3. Well all it really shows is that you like the product you sell which i would hope that you do.

4.im fine with that but its still an honest question because it seems like you all are just trying to make a quick buck.

5. but your using that 3500 watt amp and score to make it seem better than it is, it doesnt matter what i can do above and beyond what its designed for i want to see what it really does where its meant to be used.

6. No a woofer is stupid it does what you tell it that high mms just makes it easier to bring out the low end and increase power handling but with a lower "power" sub i would rather have greater efficency but alas thats a personal choice that would make a customer such as my self buy your product versus another one.

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2. Really thats how it works huh? Looks more like you and your best buddy knocked off the way fi blocks off the pole vents with the bp power option you know the aluminum hunk on top of the plate that you "borrowed"

I take it you are referring to me ?

First -- the OA driver has NO aluminum on top of the pole and the pole is still vented. Not at all like what Fi is doing in their drivers. You are misunderstanding the concept.

Second -- I've been working with aluminum caps for years in various forms and aluminum caps are not a new invention. For that matter... in my designs the cap is vented making it's function quite a bit different than the way it is used by Fi. There is more than one way to skin a cat... but most of the ways are going to resemble each other at least a bit, don't you think ?

- Jacob Fuller

- Owner, Sundown Audio

- Sundown Audio on FACEBOOK

- Please DO NOT PM ME -- use my email address -- [email protected]

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also please post these actual test results because honestly your sitting here advertising on a site that you dont pay jack shit to

not to be off topic but whats up with under your avatar LMAO

i think there real i was looking through that guys stuff he sells and it looks like he finds stuff at auctions and just sells it

Yea, it looks like someone got the mids about a month ago....shit. If I had a whole Hertz front stage my ears would jizz all over my cheeks.

/ LOL

My Low Budget Build:

Green 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon 147k- $1K

headunit- pioneer premier deh-p650-$25

4 Lead acid batts. 1 up front and 3 in back- vented outside.- $50

4 vvme L11 10"s <- $30 shipped a piece

6 cu. ft box (after displacment) tuned to 32ish hz with 10 inch sonotube. -about $50 all together maybe a lil more

2 aspm 1300 strapped

Selenium 6"s in the front doors on headunit power- for now -$20

quantum tweets in door-for now -$10

boston acoustic 5 1/4 in rear doors- for now-Free

big 3

1/0 and 4awg throughout.

roof sound deadened (not peel n seal ftw)-free

on 80 amp alt (bench tested to put out 100 amps faithfully) <--?-$10 for test

about $430 for everything<----Not bad at all

still gotta add 3 way crossover, amp for front and rear door speakers and maybe eq

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Why supply data when it is pretty much common sense.... Great you're going to saturate a market with a sub 200$ 18 ..... wooohooo!!! Glad you are keeping the workforce overseas happy... :ehh:

I take it that means that you have no data or experience. Just erroneous (wrong) statements. I won't hold my breath for your facts.

Just because it's made here in the USA doesn't mean that it is better. If you whole heartedly believe that I hope you have shirts, jeans, socks, shoes, a vehicle, gasoline, etc that is all made, crafted, and mined in the USA to back that up. That's lime saying that Scan Speak mods are piles of dung because they are not made here. They are made in another country so they MUST be crap, right?

Hey tough guy, why dont you stay on topic and show us your stats? Were waiting....

The off topic in here started with your "CHINER" sub comment as far as I can tell -- which was fully intended as an insult. The thread was completely on topic until that point. Please don't try to turn it around on Nick.

I understand that Fi is a very popular product over here on SMD and that is great -- and I'm glad they make the products in the USA as well -- very cool for them and quite an accomplishment; for customers that want a USA made woofer then they are a great choice, no doubt!

This does not mean any company out-sourcing production is terrible and warrants insult... I certainly hope, as a supporting vendor of this site, that this is not an official stance of the moderators to allow and take part in this sort of unwarranted insult.

----

Back to the subject at hand...

I have, in fact, also personally had my hands on the OA-18 and it is a quality product designed to fit a niche that is under-served; which is sub-200 dollar 18s. It was asked for by customers so OA produced it. Don't like it ? Buy a more expensive driver -- plenty of choices OVER $200 but not much under that mark.

I don't see any need for the hate going on here... someone asked a question about the product and the owner of the company showed up to answer. Last time I checked that was good service ?

- Jacob Fuller

- Owner, Sundown Audio

- Sundown Audio on FACEBOOK

- Please DO NOT PM ME -- use my email address -- [email protected]

Banner_468x60.jpg

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2. Really thats how it works huh? Looks more like you and your best buddy knocked off the way fi blocks off the pole vents with the bp power option you know the aluminum hunk on top of the plate that you "borrowed"

3. Well all it really shows is that you like the product you sell which i would hope that you do.

4.im fine with that but its still an honest question because it seems like you all are just trying to make a quick buck.

5. but your using that 3500 watt amp and score to make it seem better than it is, it doesnt matter what i can do above and beyond what its designed for i want to see what it really does where its meant to be used.

6. No a woofer is stupid it does what you tell it that high mms just makes it easier to bring out the low end and increase power handling but with a lower "power" sub i would rather have greater efficency but alas thats a personal choice that would make a customer such as my self buy your product versus another one.

2) That's an interesting and quite ostentatious claim. I've been around longer than Fi has and I have not "knocked off" any option as you eluded to. It may be hard to believe but it was good old fashioned design.

4) That is your opinion.

5) You are entitled to your opinion.

6) if you ignore the clear LFE advantage of the Obsidian driver in the same size box compared to the SSD for that 30% power saving option above 50 Hz then so be it. Everyone has their requirements.

Electrodynamic

Power handling is not a power requirement! Don't install suckage!

Simon Eichenberger is the man.

My PM's are disabled.

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i understand what you guys are saying about the price and the quality and what not of the sub, but i think obsidian has proved itself with its other woofers and i feel confident in the product they are producing,

i also feel that obsidian is trying to make the audio game more accessible to people like me, someone who either doesnt have a lot of cash or someone who wants to learn with something cheaper before they move up to say a btl or dc level 5

JEEP BUILD PROJECT ANTIBLING.2000 jeep Cherokee.HEADUNITAlpine Cda-9886SUBSTAGE1 acendent 18" audio mayhem motor with a TI basket and tantric parts1 prototype DAT hellfire 1000.1HIGHSStockELECTRICALdb link 0 gaugeKnuconceptz Kolossus 4 gauge1 xs power d3400 under hoodBig 3 upgradeold fourwheeler build

The only way to delete your SMD account is for you crawl to steve meades door step on your knees and pleade for his forgiveness and acceptance to be released...He will either grant your wishes.....or choke you with a large piece of 0 gauge and electrocute you by hooking up a solid gold DC 12k at 0.000001 ohm and 10000 volts to your eye sockets and blow your head apart

You guys act like you have never clogged a toilet and ran around the bathroom frantically hoping it don't overflow.

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