Jump to content

School me on busbars


Recommended Posts

So I understand what they do but not exactly how to hook everything up to them.

Im going to be running two D3100s in a tray on the back floor of my truck. They have to be end to end because of how my box hangs over the rear shelf that Dodge put in so Im thinking the easiest way will be to bar 'em.

Im going to be running 4 1/0 runs in and 2 1/0 initial runs then after I get everything running smoothly and have more $$ im going to have toolmaker dual inputs on my amp to help it keep clean so eventually it will be 4 out runs.

Is there any certain way to hook the bars up? Can feed runs be next to out runs? so its like (think in holes/connections) battery in in out out out out in in battery

Also for a hair over 5000W what material and size would you make them out of?

lol

or you can just start hooking shit up together and blow up speakers and your amp
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As long as the bar is positive to positive and negative to negative on your batteries it doesn't matter where you put things on the bar. When you think of a bus bar think of it as "growing" a single battery to have more capacity. It's okay to have wires from the front battery/alternator near or on the same stud as the wires to the amplifiers.

As for material it really depends on your budget but I'd suggest aluminum, or if you want to spend a little more go for copper.

Current Systems:

2011 BMW 335i

Hertz HDP1

DC LVL3 12" Full Carbon Fiber

2002 Acura Tl
Kenwood DNX9980HD
2 DCLVL4 12" Subs with LVL5 Parts D.7 Coils
DC 3.5k
Hertz HSK-165 up front HCX-165 Rear
Hertz HDP4 Amp
DC Power Engineering 260 Amp Alt
Big 3 and amp powered with KNU 1/0
XS Power D2400 Up Front

i pulled out my dick in class many of times and had it shown. get over it bitch...stupid open legged hairy beavered bitch...

going over rms = smaller box, under rms = bigger box...

Low voltage doesn't blow amps. That's a myth.

A router that does the sub holes makes rounded edges also?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would use copper, you can go smaller in size if you use pure copper, I would do 1/4 inch thick by 1.5 inch wide copper. You can get a 6ft stick of that online for around $100. And you want to link all the positives on positive side, and all negatives on negative side. And I suggest doing input and output for your wire connections to the bars. Alt input positive at one end and alt input ground at other end, then chassis ground/amp ground at other negative end, amp power at other bar positive end. Kind of hard to follow. Ask questions if you got lost, lol, but input/output is how the bars should be wired.

TEAM SOUNDQUBED -- TEAM SOUTH

TEAM S.O.B. - Founder & Captain

3x Streetbeat World Record Holder

2017 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 
2016 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem/2nd Adv 4/2nd Xtreme 4
2015 MWSPL 2nd place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4
2014 USACI 2nd place Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db
2014 MWSPL 2nd place Xtreme 4 - 144.9 db
2013 USACI 1st place Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db
2013 USACI 1st place Street Q+ - 162.8 db
2013 MWSPL 3rd Kaos2 & 4th Xtreme 4
2011 USACI 2nd place MOD 1001-2k - 160.0 db
2011 MWSPL 4th place: Adv3 - 157.8 db, Kaos2 - 150s db, Xtreme4 - 140s db
2010 ARSPL 1st place 501-750 - 160.3 db Arkansas loudest

Best score to date 164.4 db - Termlab Outlaw

Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db

Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db

MWSPL on Dash Legal door open (Music) - 162.5 db

Sealed on dash Legal (Music) - 161.1 db - Termlab

THE BLACK NASTY CURRENT BUILD & FAB

The Black Nasty (6) 15 Rebuild Log 2012

(4) 15 Walled Sierra Build Log

Evo X build log

Facebook page The Black Nasty

16163044_large.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would use copper, you can go smaller in size if you use pure copper, I would do 1/4 inch thick by 1.5 inch wide copper. You can get a 6ft stick of that online for around $100. And you want to link all the positives on positive side, and all negatives on negative side. And I suggest doing input and output for your wire connections to the bars. Alt input positive at one end and alt input ground at other end, then chassis ground/amp ground at other negative end, amp power at other bar positive end. Kind of hard to follow. Ask questions if you got lost, lol, but input/output is how the bars should be wired.

Where? I couldn't find anything that cheap. The cheapest I found for 2 8in bars 1/4 thick and 1 1/4 wide was $80. Average at local shops was $150 with the highest quote at $210.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would use copper, you can go smaller in size if you use pure copper, I would do 1/4 inch thick by 1.5 inch wide copper. You can get a 6ft stick of that online for around $100. And you want to link all the positives on positive side, and all negatives on negative side. And I suggest doing input and output for your wire connections to the bars. Alt input positive at one end and alt input ground at other end, then chassis ground/amp ground at other negative end, amp power at other bar positive end. Kind of hard to follow. Ask questions if you got lost, lol, but input/output is how the bars should be wired.

hmmm i didn't know that would be better thx for that info

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would use copper, you can go smaller in size if you use pure copper, I would do 1/4 inch thick by 1.5 inch wide copper. You can get a 6ft stick of that online for around $100. And you want to link all the positives on positive side, and all negatives on negative side. And I suggest doing input and output for your wire connections to the bars. Alt input positive at one end and alt input ground at other end, then chassis ground/amp ground at other negative end, amp power at other bar positive end. Kind of hard to follow. Ask questions if you got lost, lol, but input/output is how the bars should be wired.

Where? I couldn't find anything that cheap. The cheapest I found for 2 8in bars 1/4 thick and 1 1/4 wide was $80. Average at local shops was $150 with the highest quote at $210.

McMaster Carr FTMFW!!!! LOL

Copper bars

8964K85 on that page, $103.45 plus shipping which is like $10. That is the exact bar I used to link my 5 batcap 4000s, cut it in half, 3ft on positive end and 3 ft on negative end.

TEAM SOUNDQUBED -- TEAM SOUTH

TEAM S.O.B. - Founder & Captain

3x Streetbeat World Record Holder

2017 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 
2016 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem/2nd Adv 4/2nd Xtreme 4
2015 MWSPL 2nd place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4
2014 USACI 2nd place Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db
2014 MWSPL 2nd place Xtreme 4 - 144.9 db
2013 USACI 1st place Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db
2013 USACI 1st place Street Q+ - 162.8 db
2013 MWSPL 3rd Kaos2 & 4th Xtreme 4
2011 USACI 2nd place MOD 1001-2k - 160.0 db
2011 MWSPL 4th place: Adv3 - 157.8 db, Kaos2 - 150s db, Xtreme4 - 140s db
2010 ARSPL 1st place 501-750 - 160.3 db Arkansas loudest

Best score to date 164.4 db - Termlab Outlaw

Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db

Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db

MWSPL on Dash Legal door open (Music) - 162.5 db

Sealed on dash Legal (Music) - 161.1 db - Termlab

THE BLACK NASTY CURRENT BUILD & FAB

The Black Nasty (6) 15 Rebuild Log 2012

(4) 15 Walled Sierra Build Log

Evo X build log

Facebook page The Black Nasty

16163044_large.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pic of buss bar sex too

38899224462_large.jpg

TEAM SOUNDQUBED -- TEAM SOUTH

TEAM S.O.B. - Founder & Captain

3x Streetbeat World Record Holder

2017 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 
2016 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem/2nd Adv 4/2nd Xtreme 4
2015 MWSPL 2nd place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4
2014 USACI 2nd place Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db
2014 MWSPL 2nd place Xtreme 4 - 144.9 db
2013 USACI 1st place Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db
2013 USACI 1st place Street Q+ - 162.8 db
2013 MWSPL 3rd Kaos2 & 4th Xtreme 4
2011 USACI 2nd place MOD 1001-2k - 160.0 db
2011 MWSPL 4th place: Adv3 - 157.8 db, Kaos2 - 150s db, Xtreme4 - 140s db
2010 ARSPL 1st place 501-750 - 160.3 db Arkansas loudest

Best score to date 164.4 db - Termlab Outlaw

Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db

Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db

MWSPL on Dash Legal door open (Music) - 162.5 db

Sealed on dash Legal (Music) - 161.1 db - Termlab

THE BLACK NASTY CURRENT BUILD & FAB

The Black Nasty (6) 15 Rebuild Log 2012

(4) 15 Walled Sierra Build Log

Evo X build log

Facebook page The Black Nasty

16163044_large.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would use copper, you can go smaller in size if you use pure copper, I would do 1/4 inch thick by 1.5 inch wide copper. You can get a 6ft stick of that online for around $100. And you want to link all the positives on positive side, and all negatives on negative side. And I suggest doing input and output for your wire connections to the bars. Alt input positive at one end and alt input ground at other end, then chassis ground/amp ground at other negative end, amp power at other bar positive end. Kind of hard to follow. Ask questions if you got lost, lol, but input/output is how the bars should be wired.

Where? I couldn't find anything that cheap. The cheapest I found for 2 8in bars 1/4 thick and 1 1/4 wide was $80. Average at local shops was $150 with the highest quote at $210.

McMaster Carr FTMFW!!!! LOL

Copper bars

8964K85 on that page, $103.45 plus shipping which is like $10. That is the exact bar I used to link my 5 batcap 4000s, cut it in half, 3ft on positive end and 3 ft on negative end.

That is so upsetting. I paid $40 for these and yours look so much nicer.

DSCN4077.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1542 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...