SS4Luck Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 So I understand what they do but not exactly how to hook everything up to them. Im going to be running two D3100s in a tray on the back floor of my truck. They have to be end to end because of how my box hangs over the rear shelf that Dodge put in so Im thinking the easiest way will be to bar 'em. Im going to be running 4 1/0 runs in and 2 1/0 initial runs then after I get everything running smoothly and have more $$ im going to have toolmaker dual inputs on my amp to help it keep clean so eventually it will be 4 out runs. Is there any certain way to hook the bars up? Can feed runs be next to out runs? so its like (think in holes/connections) battery in in out out out out in in battery Also for a hair over 5000W what material and size would you make them out of? lol or you can just start hooking shit up together and blow up speakers and your amp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bumonskateboard6 Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 As long as the bar is positive to positive and negative to negative on your batteries it doesn't matter where you put things on the bar. When you think of a bus bar think of it as "growing" a single battery to have more capacity. It's okay to have wires from the front battery/alternator near or on the same stud as the wires to the amplifiers. As for material it really depends on your budget but I'd suggest aluminum, or if you want to spend a little more go for copper. Current Systems: 2011 BMW 335i Hertz HDP1 DC LVL3 12" Full Carbon Fiber 2002 Acura TlKenwood DNX9980HD2 DCLVL4 12" Subs with LVL5 Parts D.7 CoilsDC 3.5kHertz HSK-165 up front HCX-165 RearHertz HDP4 AmpDC Power Engineering 260 Amp AltBig 3 and amp powered with KNU 1/0XS Power D2400 Up Front i pulled out my dick in class many of times and had it shown. get over it bitch...stupid open legged hairy beavered bitch... going over rms = smaller box, under rms = bigger box... Low voltage doesn't blow amps. That's a myth. A router that does the sub holes makes rounded edges also? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finkster Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 A buss bar is used as a wire. Just doesn't have a rubber jacket on it. DAT 4125------>RE XXX comps active Eclipse cd7000 I serve drunks for a living Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMI CUSTOMS Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 I would use copper, you can go smaller in size if you use pure copper, I would do 1/4 inch thick by 1.5 inch wide copper. You can get a 6ft stick of that online for around $100. And you want to link all the positives on positive side, and all negatives on negative side. And I suggest doing input and output for your wire connections to the bars. Alt input positive at one end and alt input ground at other end, then chassis ground/amp ground at other negative end, amp power at other bar positive end. Kind of hard to follow. Ask questions if you got lost, lol, but input/output is how the bars should be wired. TEAM SOUNDQUBED -- TEAM SOUTH TEAM S.O.B. - Founder & Captain 3x Streetbeat World Record Holder 2017 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 2016 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem/2nd Adv 4/2nd Xtreme 4 2015 MWSPL 2nd place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 2014 USACI 2nd place Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db 2014 MWSPL 2nd place Xtreme 4 - 144.9 db 2013 USACI 1st place Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db 2013 USACI 1st place Street Q+ - 162.8 db 2013 MWSPL 3rd Kaos2 & 4th Xtreme 4 2011 USACI 2nd place MOD 1001-2k - 160.0 db 2011 MWSPL 4th place: Adv3 - 157.8 db, Kaos2 - 150s db, Xtreme4 - 140s db 2010 ARSPL 1st place 501-750 - 160.3 db Arkansas loudest Best score to date 164.4 db - Termlab Outlaw Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db MWSPL on Dash Legal door open (Music) - 162.5 db Sealed on dash Legal (Music) - 161.1 db - Termlab THE BLACK NASTY CURRENT BUILD & FAB The Black Nasty (6) 15 Rebuild Log 2012 (4) 15 Walled Sierra Build Log Evo X build log Facebook page The Black Nasty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
varietyguy Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 I would use copper, you can go smaller in size if you use pure copper, I would do 1/4 inch thick by 1.5 inch wide copper. You can get a 6ft stick of that online for around $100. And you want to link all the positives on positive side, and all negatives on negative side. And I suggest doing input and output for your wire connections to the bars. Alt input positive at one end and alt input ground at other end, then chassis ground/amp ground at other negative end, amp power at other bar positive end. Kind of hard to follow. Ask questions if you got lost, lol, but input/output is how the bars should be wired. Where? I couldn't find anything that cheap. The cheapest I found for 2 8in bars 1/4 thick and 1 1/4 wide was $80. Average at local shops was $150 with the highest quote at $210. 1992 Mazda 323 http://www.stevemead...323-wall-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jd1102 Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 I would use copper, you can go smaller in size if you use pure copper, I would do 1/4 inch thick by 1.5 inch wide copper. You can get a 6ft stick of that online for around $100. And you want to link all the positives on positive side, and all negatives on negative side. And I suggest doing input and output for your wire connections to the bars. Alt input positive at one end and alt input ground at other end, then chassis ground/amp ground at other negative end, amp power at other bar positive end. Kind of hard to follow. Ask questions if you got lost, lol, but input/output is how the bars should be wired. hmmm i didn't know that would be better thx for that info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMI CUSTOMS Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 I would use copper, you can go smaller in size if you use pure copper, I would do 1/4 inch thick by 1.5 inch wide copper. You can get a 6ft stick of that online for around $100. And you want to link all the positives on positive side, and all negatives on negative side. And I suggest doing input and output for your wire connections to the bars. Alt input positive at one end and alt input ground at other end, then chassis ground/amp ground at other negative end, amp power at other bar positive end. Kind of hard to follow. Ask questions if you got lost, lol, but input/output is how the bars should be wired. Where? I couldn't find anything that cheap. The cheapest I found for 2 8in bars 1/4 thick and 1 1/4 wide was $80. Average at local shops was $150 with the highest quote at $210. McMaster Carr FTMFW!!!! LOL Copper bars 8964K85 on that page, $103.45 plus shipping which is like $10. That is the exact bar I used to link my 5 batcap 4000s, cut it in half, 3ft on positive end and 3 ft on negative end. TEAM SOUNDQUBED -- TEAM SOUTH TEAM S.O.B. - Founder & Captain 3x Streetbeat World Record Holder 2017 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 2016 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem/2nd Adv 4/2nd Xtreme 4 2015 MWSPL 2nd place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 2014 USACI 2nd place Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db 2014 MWSPL 2nd place Xtreme 4 - 144.9 db 2013 USACI 1st place Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db 2013 USACI 1st place Street Q+ - 162.8 db 2013 MWSPL 3rd Kaos2 & 4th Xtreme 4 2011 USACI 2nd place MOD 1001-2k - 160.0 db 2011 MWSPL 4th place: Adv3 - 157.8 db, Kaos2 - 150s db, Xtreme4 - 140s db 2010 ARSPL 1st place 501-750 - 160.3 db Arkansas loudest Best score to date 164.4 db - Termlab Outlaw Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db MWSPL on Dash Legal door open (Music) - 162.5 db Sealed on dash Legal (Music) - 161.1 db - Termlab THE BLACK NASTY CURRENT BUILD & FAB The Black Nasty (6) 15 Rebuild Log 2012 (4) 15 Walled Sierra Build Log Evo X build log Facebook page The Black Nasty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMI CUSTOMS Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 Pic of buss bar sex too TEAM SOUNDQUBED -- TEAM SOUTH TEAM S.O.B. - Founder & Captain 3x Streetbeat World Record Holder 2017 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 2016 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem/2nd Adv 4/2nd Xtreme 4 2015 MWSPL 2nd place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 2014 USACI 2nd place Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db 2014 MWSPL 2nd place Xtreme 4 - 144.9 db 2013 USACI 1st place Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db 2013 USACI 1st place Street Q+ - 162.8 db 2013 MWSPL 3rd Kaos2 & 4th Xtreme 4 2011 USACI 2nd place MOD 1001-2k - 160.0 db 2011 MWSPL 4th place: Adv3 - 157.8 db, Kaos2 - 150s db, Xtreme4 - 140s db 2010 ARSPL 1st place 501-750 - 160.3 db Arkansas loudest Best score to date 164.4 db - Termlab Outlaw Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db MWSPL on Dash Legal door open (Music) - 162.5 db Sealed on dash Legal (Music) - 161.1 db - Termlab THE BLACK NASTY CURRENT BUILD & FAB The Black Nasty (6) 15 Rebuild Log 2012 (4) 15 Walled Sierra Build Log Evo X build log Facebook page The Black Nasty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
varietyguy Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 I would use copper, you can go smaller in size if you use pure copper, I would do 1/4 inch thick by 1.5 inch wide copper. You can get a 6ft stick of that online for around $100. And you want to link all the positives on positive side, and all negatives on negative side. And I suggest doing input and output for your wire connections to the bars. Alt input positive at one end and alt input ground at other end, then chassis ground/amp ground at other negative end, amp power at other bar positive end. Kind of hard to follow. Ask questions if you got lost, lol, but input/output is how the bars should be wired. Where? I couldn't find anything that cheap. The cheapest I found for 2 8in bars 1/4 thick and 1 1/4 wide was $80. Average at local shops was $150 with the highest quote at $210. McMaster Carr FTMFW!!!! LOL Copper bars 8964K85 on that page, $103.45 plus shipping which is like $10. That is the exact bar I used to link my 5 batcap 4000s, cut it in half, 3ft on positive end and 3 ft on negative end. That is so upsetting. I paid $40 for these and yours look so much nicer. 1992 Mazda 323 http://www.stevemead...323-wall-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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