2007TBSS Posted December 9, 2011 Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 What do I need to do? Local joint did the power ground. Xtant 604X and Xtant 403a. Fused 150amps at the battery. I think they grounded it to the body?? Does it need a better ground? New battery? I don't have room for a second battery and the budget is stretched as it is. Any help on a cheap option to at least help? Quote JVC AVX840 Xtant 604x Xtant 403a 2 RE SEX12's Polk Audio DB6501 Front and back http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/127503-re-12s-box-build-system-complete/page__p__1794327__fromsearch__1#entry1794327 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjN Posted December 9, 2011 Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 What amp are you running? Quote 2x sundown audio sa 12's Crescendo BC2000 kinetik 1800, 1400. Rockford punch 5,25 component set MB QUART ONYX 4.80 Mechman 270a alt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007TBSS Posted December 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 Xtant 604x and 403a. Quote JVC AVX840 Xtant 604x Xtant 403a 2 RE SEX12's Polk Audio DB6501 Front and back http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/127503-re-12s-box-build-system-complete/page__p__1794327__fromsearch__1#entry1794327 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonJones Posted December 9, 2011 Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 Do the big 3 my friend. How old is the battery you're currently using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007TBSS Posted December 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 I'm not really sure to be honest. That was my next thing to look at too. I have had this 604x since I bought it new in 2001 running it in multiple cars including my little 4cyl Sonoma and it has never dimmed lights before. It never struck me as a crazy current draw. I plan on doing the big 3 ASAP. I was reading up on it. That body ground at the back seemed odd to me though. I would think an SS would have enough alternator to push that system. Quote JVC AVX840 Xtant 604x Xtant 403a 2 RE SEX12's Polk Audio DB6501 Front and back http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/127503-re-12s-box-build-system-complete/page__p__1794327__fromsearch__1#entry1794327 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UnderLoK Posted December 9, 2011 Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 (edited) You have a 145a alt... Big 3 and change your ground in the back and you should be set (I also have a TBSS). Where exactly did they ground it in the back? Edited December 9, 2011 by UnderLoK Quote If at first you do not succeed, you are doing it wrong! -ARSCheck out my walled TBSS build over here4 Fi Team 18s on 2 Cactus K9 DS18 doors on 2 MBQ 1Ks, Vifa pillars on a STL4.500 Pioneer X8500 6 XS Power D7500, 1 3400S Second Skin 2 270a Mechman Alts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UnderLoK Posted December 9, 2011 Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 (edited) Sorry thought this txt I got was a job I was waiting to go on... The one amp needs a 120a fuse The other amp needs a 60a fuse If you are going to do a chassis ground the thickest spot I know if is under the molding in the door jam (where is curves out big time). Just make sure they didn't just ground it to a seat bolt w/o taking of the paint. I also just noticed you said money is crazy tight, but you still need to add grounds up front from the chassis (or frame) to the battery and from the battery to one of the bolts on the alt (one of the 2 that hold the alt in). You should also add a run from the alt (power) to the battery. You can use 4g if you can't afford 1/0 as 1/0 that short is complete overkill. If you don't know where to run your frame or chassis ground this is what I would do. Get enough 4g to run from the alt to the frame and then from the frame to the battery. The location I would use is on the drivers side (called left) left of the cross member under the truck. Look for a hole in that brace just above where the cross member bolts into. Get a 1/4" stainless (important, STAINLESS) bolt, washer, lock washer, and a nut. Sand down where the hole is, put the bolt in, put on the washer, put on your 2 4g runs, lock washer, and nut. Then hit it with some spray paint (rustolium or whatever you have handy). Run one of those to your alt (as close to it as possible, depending on the ring terminal you have try to get it between the bracket the alt sits in and the alt itself) and run the other to the bettery. Then as said above just make a positive run (add do not remove the existing wire) from the battery to the alt. This is where I ground 2 of my runs (where I suggest you do as well). Unfortunately our frames have next to no gaps for you to bolt into it so I go with where there is some serious welds. Anyways... There are 3 videos as I didn't feel like editing them when I posted them, check my channel for the other 2. Edited December 9, 2011 by UnderLoK Quote If at first you do not succeed, you are doing it wrong! -ARSCheck out my walled TBSS build over here4 Fi Team 18s on 2 Cactus K9 DS18 doors on 2 MBQ 1Ks, Vifa pillars on a STL4.500 Pioneer X8500 6 XS Power D7500, 1 3400S Second Skin 2 270a Mechman Alts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007TBSS Posted December 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 Sorry thought this txt I got was a job I was waiting to go on... The one amp needs a 120a fuse The other amp needs a 60a fuse If you are going to do a chassis ground the thickest spot I know if is under the molding in the door jam (where is curves out big time). Just make sure they didn't just ground it to a seat bolt w/o taking of the paint. I also just noticed you said money is crazy tight, but you still need to add grounds up front from the chassis (or frame) to the battery and from the battery to one of the bolts on the alt (one of the 2 that hold the alt in). You should also add a run from the alt (power) to the battery. You can use 4g if you can't afford 1/0 as 1/0 that short is complete overkill. If you don't know where to run your frame or chassis ground this is what I would do. Get enough 4g to run from the alt to the frame and then from the frame to the battery. The location I would use is on the drivers side (called left) left of the cross member under the truck. Look for a hole in that brace just above where the cross member bolts into. Get a 1/4" stainless (important, STAINLESS) bolt, washer, lock washer, and a nut. Sand down where the hole is, put the bolt in, put on the washer, put on your 2 4g runs, lock washer, and nut. Then hit it with some spray paint (rustolium or whatever you have handy). Run one of those to your alt (as close to it as possible, depending on the ring terminal you have try to get it between the bracket the alt sits in and the alt itself) and run the other to the bettery. Then as said above just make a positive run (add do not remove the existing wire) from the battery to the alt. This is where I ground 2 of my runs (where I suggest you do as well). Unfortunately our frames have next to no gaps for you to bolt into it so I go with where there is some serious welds. Anyways... There are 3 videos as I didn't feel like editing them when I posted them, check my channel for the other 2. The 150 is the ANL up front then split to two 60amp in the fuse block at the back. Thanks for the info. I'll check out those vids as soon as I get home! Off the top of your head, you know where I can possibly find a grommeted hole through the floor? I was thinking about checking the bottom of the trunk well and maybe under the rear seats. Sorry if you answered this already. I'm checking I'm from my phone at work. Quote JVC AVX840 Xtant 604x Xtant 403a 2 RE SEX12's Polk Audio DB6501 Front and back http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/127503-re-12s-box-build-system-complete/page__p__1794327__fromsearch__1#entry1794327 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getlocivic Posted December 9, 2011 Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 autozone and any parts store sells rubber grommets.. or if ur THAT tight on cash u can wrap electrical tape around where the wire will go thru metal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UnderLoK Posted December 9, 2011 Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 I don't know of anywhere no, I just drilled holes in the cubbyhole where your manuals and hitch shit are (on the cargo floor). If you drill to the right (passenger side) of the cubby it's pretty open there (be sure to double check), just be extremely careful if you drill left (driver) cause the neck for the tank runs by there. Actually now that I think about it, there might be an exiting hole where the rear air ride is (where that air hose is, behind those panels, it leads under the truck) just not sure how big the hole is. While there could be stuff under the back seats I'm not sure as I never pulled my carpet back there. No matter what you do just be damn sure to look before you drill as these trucks have an unreal amount of crap under them. Quote If at first you do not succeed, you are doing it wrong! -ARSCheck out my walled TBSS build over here4 Fi Team 18s on 2 Cactus K9 DS18 doors on 2 MBQ 1Ks, Vifa pillars on a STL4.500 Pioneer X8500 6 XS Power D7500, 1 3400S Second Skin 2 270a Mechman Alts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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