2007TBSS Posted December 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 Haha no not that broke. But another $200 battery may send my wife over a cliff. Quote JVC AVX840 Xtant 604x Xtant 403a 2 RE SEX12's Polk Audio DB6501 Front and back http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/127503-re-12s-box-build-system-complete/page__p__1794327__fromsearch__1#entry1794327 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Socky Posted December 9, 2011 Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 Just tell her its your xmas gift to yourself eheheh Quote Jeep Cherokee 4dr -4.75 in front, new rusty's 4.5 in rear leafs -micky thompson 35x14.50x15 -locker rear -Rusty's offroad Engine/transmission/transfer case/crossmember/gas tank skid plates -Warn front bumper with 8000lb winch -Custom rear bumper -Warrior product tube doors (summertime) -Optima redtop (starter) -26XK miles and still runs like a bat out of hell Kenwood H/U 1/0 wire, 136 amp alt 200 ah batteries 12.7 daily 2 Apsm 1500 @ 2 ohm strapped on zv3 d1 with ns softparts Mb quart 125.4 wired to 4 aura 6's 3.6 cube box tuned to 36 plays down to 23hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007TBSS Posted December 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 Haha, I already used that for the other stuff I just had put in. Quote JVC AVX840 Xtant 604x Xtant 403a 2 RE SEX12's Polk Audio DB6501 Front and back http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/127503-re-12s-box-build-system-complete/page__p__1794327__fromsearch__1#entry1794327 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007TBSS Posted December 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 I followed the ground down to a post under the drivers side rear seat. Sanded and tight. I'll post a pic later tonight. Seems solid but the bolt may not really go anywhere. I can't tell yet. Quote JVC AVX840 Xtant 604x Xtant 403a 2 RE SEX12's Polk Audio DB6501 Front and back http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/127503-re-12s-box-build-system-complete/page__p__1794327__fromsearch__1#entry1794327 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Watch the bass Posted December 9, 2011 Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 Sorry thought this txt I got was a job I was waiting to go on... The one amp needs a 120a fuse The other amp needs a 60a fuse If you are going to do a chassis ground the thickest spot I know if is under the molding in the door jam (where is curves out big time). Just make sure they didn't just ground it to a seat bolt w/o taking of the paint. I also just noticed you said money is crazy tight, but you still need to add grounds up front from the chassis (or frame) to the battery and from the battery to one of the bolts on the alt (one of the 2 that hold the alt in). You should also add a run from the alt (power) to the battery. You can use 4g if you can't afford 1/0 as 1/0 that short is complete overkill. If you don't know where to run your frame or chassis ground this is what I would do. Get enough 4g to run from the alt to the frame and then from the frame to the battery. The location I would use is on the drivers side (called left) left of the cross member under the truck. Look for a hole in that brace just above where the cross member bolts into. Get a 1/4" stainless (important, STAINLESS) bolt, washer, lock washer, and a nut. Sand down where the hole is, put the bolt in, put on the washer, put on your 2 4g runs, lock washer, and nut. Then hit it with some spray paint (rustolium or whatever you have handy). Run one of those to your alt (as close to it as possible, depending on the ring terminal you have try to get it between the bracket the alt sits in and the alt itself) and run the other to the bettery. Then as said above just make a positive run (add do not remove the existing wire) from the battery to the alt. This is where I ground 2 of my runs (where I suggest you do as well). Unfortunately our frames have next to no gaps for you to bolt into it so I go with where there is some serious welds. Anyways... There are 3 videos as I didn't feel like editing them when I posted them, check my channel for the other 2. The 150 is the ANL up front then split to two 60amp in the fuse block at the back. Thanks for the info. I'll check out those vids as soon as I get home! Off the top of your head, you know where I can possibly find a grommeted hole through the floor? I was thinking about checking the bottom of the trunk well and maybe under the rear seats. Sorry if you answered this already. I'm checking I'm from my phone at work. Dont use 4 g, you have bad dimming, if you have 4 g wire arround you can maby do a doublerun of 4 G. Bad dimming means no jokes with the electrical system. Quote "in the abundance of water, the fool is thirsty" Bob Marley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007TBSS Posted December 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 What does that mean? Stuff can go haywire fast? Quote JVC AVX840 Xtant 604x Xtant 403a 2 RE SEX12's Polk Audio DB6501 Front and back http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/127503-re-12s-box-build-system-complete/page__p__1794327__fromsearch__1#entry1794327 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UnderLoK Posted December 9, 2011 Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 (edited) What does that mean? Stuff can go haywire fast? No he is trying to say that you need 1/0 for a 2ft ground run and 150a'ish of draw to get rid of your dimming. 1/0 is always "better", but its capacity is well beyond what you need. If you plan on upgrading in the future and have the money do it in 1/0, if not 4g is fine as you have a max draw around 150a which is what most 4g can do at 8-12' and your stock wiring is already 4g afaik. Have your battery tested and do the big 3 in either 4g or 1/0, just don't buy it local you will get ripped off (go to Knukoncepts or the like) Edited December 9, 2011 by UnderLoK Quote If at first you do not succeed, you are doing it wrong! -ARSCheck out my walled TBSS build over here4 Fi Team 18s on 2 Cactus K9 DS18 doors on 2 MBQ 1Ks, Vifa pillars on a STL4.500 Pioneer X8500 6 XS Power D7500, 1 3400S Second Skin 2 270a Mechman Alts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007TBSS Posted December 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 Quick picture. Quote JVC AVX840 Xtant 604x Xtant 403a 2 RE SEX12's Polk Audio DB6501 Front and back http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/127503-re-12s-box-build-system-complete/page__p__1794327__fromsearch__1#entry1794327 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2007TBSS Posted December 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 What does that mean? Stuff can go haywire fast? No he is trying to say that you need 1/0 for a 2ft ground run and 150a'ish of draw to get rid of your dimming. 1/0 is always "better", but its capacity is well beyond what you need. If you plan on upgrading in the future and have the money do it in 1/0, if not 4g is fine as you have a max draw around 150a which is what most 4g can do at 8-12' and your stock wiring is already 4g afaik. Have your battery tested and do the big 3 in either 4g or 1/0, just don't buy it local you will get ripped off (go to Knukoncepts or the like) My only concern is the ground block is 4ga inlet. I considered doing a 4 ga and a couple 8ga even and just doing an "all holes filled" on that ground block. Tomorrow morning I am going to crawl under there and see what I'm dealing with. In the meantime, besides some dimming lights is anything in extreme danger? Like keep it completely off danger or no slamming danger? Quote JVC AVX840 Xtant 604x Xtant 403a 2 RE SEX12's Polk Audio DB6501 Front and back http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/127503-re-12s-box-build-system-complete/page__p__1794327__fromsearch__1#entry1794327 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamace24 Posted December 9, 2011 Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 Are you running the stock battery? I have a system in my girls car only like 1000rms max on an 02 trailblazer and theres dimming, not huge, but there is which kinda shocked me. Im running knu 4 gauge all around so that shouldnt be the problem. I have not done the big 3 neither but i also have the stock battery. I want to upgrade the stock to 1 beefy one and im hoping that would fix everything. However, even when i have the system off and i push say the unlock/lock doors button, my lights dim as i press each button. Is this a sign of a bigger problem, maybe a bad alternator or bad battery? Sorry if it looks like i stoled your post but i too have a TB and am looking to doing the big 3 as well but it does look like theres a lot of stuff on this truck i even read that theres a manufacture problem with the stock chassis to engine ground that gets corroded pretty fast, her truck is 100,000 miles so maybe thats it my stock ground sucks. Quote 1st Setup(SOLD):2007 GMC YukonPioneer Avic F90bt Audiocontrol Epicenter2 Audioque SDC2.5 15 subs8.7 cubes at 37hz build DONEAudioque 1200d (Audioque 1200d Sold, similar performance to my ap1500)Diamond Audio Hex 6.5 Mids n TweetsCerwin Vega Exl 400 4 channel Bridged(also have MTX 4004 not being used)1 Run of power Knu Fleks 4 Gauge2 Cheap stock Battery setup2nd Setup (SOLD):2007 GMC YukonPioneer Avic F90bt Audiocontrol Epicenter2 15 Kicker cvx (maybe two SA 15 in future)7 cubes net tuned at 34hzAlphasonik Old school 1600rms (ap 1500d sold GREAT Budget amp)JBL 6.5 Power Series Components, Infinity Kappa 6.5 3 ways, and 2 Kicker KS Tweets (LOUD)Cerwin vega exl4001 run knu Fleks OFC 0 gaugeBig 3 done1 Odyssey 1500, 1 optima yellow top d31 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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