Alternator's voltage not stabilized

[audiofanaticz]

Depending on what external regulator

Use a thicker gauge wire to the external regulator.

Also use a relay to to turn the regulator on, instead of a ignition source wire.

So use whatever ignition wire your currently using to turn the regulator on, to turn the relay on, then wire the other side of the relay to the battery. So when the ignition wire turns on the relay, it will draw its power straight from the battery instead of thru the vehicles factory smaller gauge wire that has a lot of internal resistance, which is causing the voltage to constantly change.

Simple test before wiring in a relay, disconnect your current power source from the regulator, and run a jumper wire directly to the battery and try it out. If the voltage is more consistent use a relay to draw power from the battery, and use the old ignition switched wire to turn the relay on.

[Monergist]

Is that a Stinger volt meter? How is it wired?

I wouldn't put too much stock in that little $20 meter. I have one but I still use my multimeter for troubleshooting or when I want definite numbers.

Mine jumps all over the place when I'm sitting at stop lights (no music, just stock electrical running). Not a big deal; it's most likely the results of a cheap meter, not what my alternator is actually doing.

Maybe try a nice multimeter and see if you get the same results.

And, concerning the adjustable voltage boost module; simply exchange it for a new one after you try Audiofanaticz advise (if it's to no avail).

[206xtreme]

FIRST OF ALL!!! Thank you all for your responses!!! Problem with stable voltage is solved! I can now adjust my voltage with the external regulator. Followed your advice but I'm not sure which one helped! So thank you all.

My problem now is that I can't set a lower voltage than 14.6V (that's the least I can have) and sometimes i get 15V.

Sarcasm much ^ that wont help you find a answer... if emailing mechman didnt help do all you can do by urself... diagnose things yourself Reset your ECU (unplug all battery grounds). Recheck all your alternator wiring make sure the harness that plugs into your alternator is in all the way (if your vehicle has one). Check your grounds maybe you have a bad ground on your alt or battery.. after 10-30mins of all the grounds being off reground your batts if it hasnt stablized after all that put your stock back on until you ship it back or find a replacement

Done this. Triplechecked everything.

Depending on what external regulator

Use a thicker gauge wire to the external regulator.

Also use a relay to to turn the regulator on, instead of a ignition source wire.

So use whatever ignition wire your currently using to turn the regulator on, to turn the relay on, then wire the other side of the relay to the battery. So when the ignition wire turns on the relay, it will draw its power straight from the battery instead of thru the vehicles factory smaller gauge wire that has a lot of internal resistance, which is causing the voltage to constantly change.

Simple test before wiring in a relay, disconnect your current power source from the regulator, and run a jumper wire directly to the battery and try it out. If the voltage is more consistent use a relay to draw power from the battery, and use the old ignition switched wire to turn the relay on.

Done this. Tried also with the relay but I don't think it changed something.

Is that a Stinger volt meter? How is it wired?

I wouldn't put too much stock in that little $20 meter. I have one but I still use my multimeter for troubleshooting or when I want definite numbers.

Mine jumps all over the place when I'm sitting at stop lights (no music, just stock electrical running). Not a big deal; it's most likely the results of a cheap meter, not what my alternator is actually doing.

Maybe try a nice multimeter and see if you get the same results.

And, concerning the adjustable voltage boost module; simply exchange it for a new one after you try Audiofanaticz advise (if it's to no avail).

Of course I used my multimeter for every check and for accurate measurements. I uploaded the video with the Dietz (not Stinger, but still the same) because I was driving that time so I couldn't film the multimeter.

[Uncle D]

2006xtreme,

You have a video of the voltage fixed? I'd like to see the voltage not spike when you bring up the RPM. I've got this same problem and have had Mechman install a different/new regulator and no change. I was told they couldn't even see the spike on their test bench, but I believe their's a reason they can't see it.

[MECHMAN]

Depending on what external regulator

Use a thicker gauge wire to the external regulator.

Also use a relay to to turn the regulator on, instead of a ignition source wire.

So use whatever ignition wire your currently using to turn the regulator on, to turn the relay on, then wire the other side of the relay to the battery. So when the ignition wire turns on the relay, it will draw its power straight from the battery instead of thru the vehicles factory smaller gauge wire that has a lot of internal resistance, which is causing the voltage to constantly change.

Simple test before wiring in a relay, disconnect your current power source from the regulator, and run a jumper wire directly to the battery and try it out. If the voltage is more consistent use a relay to draw power from the battery, and use the old ignition switched wire to turn the relay on.

I couldn't have worded this any better, accept for in the instruction sheet that comes with our regulator when you purchase one. (it says basically all of the same info)

You should never operate a charging system if the voltage is spiking up, as you obviously could damage something. When a 91102R regulator is installed correctly and functioning correctly, there will be no spikes, over voltage, under voltage, etc... I am constantly contacted by people (many of them who arn't even running a mechman alternator) for trouble shooting on these regulators, and usually we identify the problem in the wiring and the customer's problem is solved. Even Rusty at DC audio was having issues with his Ohio Gen unit with 91102R, and we got it working properly by eliminating the resistance in his overly long field wire.

90% of the time, when a customer is having problems with a 91102R voltage regulator, it is because of voltage drop in the turn on wire, or because they have lengthened the field/ground wires. If you read our instruction sheet, it explains that the wires should not be extended, and that a properly sized wire (with no voltage drop in it ) must be used for the POS connection on the regulator This is because the regulator also senses the voltage in the batteries through this wire. If there is voltage drop through that wire because you are using a flimsy ignition switched circuit, or because the wire is too small, then a relay should be used with a direct wire running from the battery terminal, through the relay, and to the POS terminal.

We are more than happy to help you get it figured out. There is also a possibility that the regulator is faulty if the problem persists.