Rebel4055 Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 I've always hooked my positive up before my ground. Quote Rest In Peace mother. January 22, 1955 - February 14, 2013 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/user/35351-megrch/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bre2ts Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 So you have no ground connected right now to the chassis frame or engine block? I am on mobile so it's hard to tell Quote Feedback 1 | Feedback 2 you win some, you lose some Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 you have two much going on. hook up all your batts first. then hook up your amps. you've got fifteen things that can be factored in. start cutting things out and isolate the fault. Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALPINE408 Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 if you hook up ground frist then go to add power and it sparkes you take the power off no more sparks.. if you have power on frist and something grounds out guess what its a lot harder to stop.. if hooking up power frist if something grounds out when you already have a few powers hooked up how do you disconect fast? You connect the positive first because it changes nothing by hooking up the ground first you have now given the battery a circuit and is now considered "hot". The reason why any battery would spark while connecting the ground is because somewhere in the circuit something is drawing power, whether it be the dome light because the doors open or the simple constants to clocks and radios. All of those things would cause the battery to spark a little at connection. I've always hooked my positive up before my ground. i bet you 2 dont charge the caps in your amps before hooking them up ether guess im just use to 20,000 watt plus systems Quote Have you ever had your woofers blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyBoy95 Posted January 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 So you have no ground connected right now to the chassis frame or engine block? I am on mobile so it's hard to tell nothing grounded on the frame gets hooked up until that orange spot with all the grounds makes contact. Quote Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyBoy95 Posted January 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 (edited) if you hook up ground frist then go to add power and it sparkes you take the power off no more sparks.. if you have power on frist and something grounds out guess what its a lot harder to stop.. if hooking up power frist if something grounds out when you already have a few powers hooked up how do you disconect fast? You connect the positive first because it changes nothing by hooking up the ground first you have now given the battery a circuit and is now considered "hot". The reason why any battery would spark while connecting the ground is because somewhere in the circuit something is drawing power, whether it be the dome light because the doors open or the simple constants to clocks and radios. All of those things would cause the battery to spark a little at connection. i have always gotten a little spark, but it was an amber colored spark, this was white/neon blue almost and melted a tiny piece of the bolt when it was connected. edit: is the bass amp reading 2ish volts because of the caps in it? edit #2: you have two much going on. hook up all your batts first. then hook up your amps. you've got fifteen things that can be factored in. start cutting things out and isolate the fault. can i just take the fuse out of the positive run? to take them out of the equation? Edited January 17, 2012 by ChevyBoy95 Quote Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebel4055 Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 if you hook up ground frist then go to add power and it sparkes you take the power off no more sparks.. if you have power on frist and something grounds out guess what its a lot harder to stop.. if hooking up power frist if something grounds out when you already have a few powers hooked up how do you disconect fast? You connect the positive first because it changes nothing by hooking up the ground first you have now given the battery a circuit and is now considered "hot". The reason why any battery would spark while connecting the ground is because somewhere in the circuit something is drawing power, whether it be the dome light because the doors open or the simple constants to clocks and radios. All of those things would cause the battery to spark a little at connection. I've always hooked my positive up before my ground. i bet you 2 dont charge the caps in your amps before hooking them up ether guess im just use to 20,000 watt plus systems I'm talking in general. Not system wise. Quote Rest In Peace mother. January 22, 1955 - February 14, 2013 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/user/35351-megrch/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bre2ts Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 if you hook up ground frist then go to add power and it sparkes you take the power off no more sparks.. if you have power on frist and something grounds out guess what its a lot harder to stop.. if hooking up power frist if something grounds out when you already have a few powers hooked up how do you disconect fast? You connect the positive first because it changes nothing by hooking up the ground first you have now given the battery a circuit and is now considered "hot". The reason why any battery would spark while connecting the ground is because somewhere in the circuit something is drawing power, whether it be the dome light because the doors open or the simple constants to clocks and radios. All of those things would cause the battery to spark a little at connection. I've always hooked my positive up before my ground. i bet you 2 dont charge the caps in your amps before hooking them up ether guess im just use to 20,000 watt plus systems You don't have to run a 20kw system to know this it's common knowledge Quote Feedback 1 | Feedback 2 you win some, you lose some Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 you could Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AA98hoe Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 (edited) You have a direct short on a power wire some where.. when you hook up grounds its completeing the circuit and blowing the fuse.. make sure power wire or lug isn't touching back of alternator case.....hook up all batterys 1st with frame grounds also... do big 3 up front... then wire up amps.. always ground the amp 1st,then the pos, then remote, then rcas... if you hook up pos wire 1st to amp it will search for ground and if you plug in rcas guess what blown rcas on deck and other equipment... meaning bad engine whine......and who kinows what else possible blown remote output from deck also.. find the short... if only the alternator fuse blew then its close by there imo.. Edited January 17, 2012 by dc98hoe Quote TEAM DC AUDIO VEHICLE:98 chevy tahoe 2wd 3-4 drop HEADUNIT:alpine 9886 PREAMP:arcaudio FRONT STAGE:4-6 1/2s selinium,DD component set and 4-selinium tweeters in each door KICKPANELS:jl audio 5 1/4 REAR DOORS: dd components 6 1/2s HIGHS AMPS:zapco 750.2 on front doors,zapco an another 750.2 on kicks and rear doors SUBS:4-ascendant audio 18s with 5 spiders in a custom box built by KINGSUV SUB AMP: 2-dc7.5s ALTERNATORS: 3-mechmans 1- 425comp, 1-smd spec350, 1-270 with adj voltage harness on custom dc bracket WIRE:10-runs 0g front to back BATTERIES:6-d1400s TL results:157.1 at 38hz and 156.8 at headrest score @37hz. STATE AND NATIONAL RECORD IN MECA S5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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