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Is this resitance reading bad?


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Yep, very bad. At a mere 1amp of current, you'll get 2.4V of drop.

What'd you measure it with?

Touch the meter leads together, what do you get? Should be 0.3ohms or less.

Any corrosion or oxidation on wires?

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Yep, very bad. At a mere 1amp of current, you'll get 2.4V of drop.

What'd you measure it with?

Touch the meter leads together, what do you get? Should be 0.3ohms or less.

Any corrosion or oxidation on wires?

Hi, I am measuring with a Fluke 87 DMM :) Yes you are correct, when I touch the test leads together it measures around 0.3 Ohms. I dont see any oxidation on the wire - the vehicle has around 55,000 miles on it but then again that wire looks like a 8 ga...

I am thinking leaving it on there and adding a 0 awg from the alt. to the battery with an inline ANL fuse ...

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2ohms is a bit high. If it is oxidation or something you could use the meter and just measure the resistance across one of the lugs and then work your way through the cable, looking for a spot of higher resistance than the rest. Is the cable connected to the system? If its powered that may interfere with the meter...

0gauge would be a great upgrade idea, along with the rest of the big 3.

This post sent with 100% recycled electrons.
2004 BMW M3
Mechman 280A
2 - XS Power XP3000

1 - XS Power D375

500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F)
iPadMini2

Dash mounted O-scope
Audison bitOne (Remote DRC MP)
Highs Amp - PPI Art A404
Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...)
DC Audio DC9.0K
2- DC Audio XL12m2

LEGAL             - 147.3dB @ 41Hz
OUTLAW         - 150.2dB @ 45Hz

OUTLAW         - 145.7dB @ 30Hz
JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER

2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER

SOTM BUILD:
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026

sig-sized6_zps0265e669.png

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Hi, I will do a more "thorough" test later on. Yes the cable was powered / live when I was testing it. I will isolate it and do the resistance checks then (ring terminal to crimped cable, cable to batt. terminal, etc.) Although I am gonna do the 0 ga. upgrade anyways, I am just curious about this :)

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  • 1 month later...

Well I cleaned the terminals, etc. and the resistance dropped to .05 ohms from the Alt. to the battery - well I went ahead and did the big three as follows...

1. Alternator to battery wire - added a 0 Ga. together with the oem wire and an inline fuse on the 0 Ga.

2. Battery to body Ground - 2 Ga

3. Battery to engine block ground 4 Ga

(I just used whatever I had left)... now I must say, it did not help sadly. My headlights are still dimming but I am assuming my stock alternator can't handle the Hifonics 5 Channel (1000W RMS into 1 Ohm sub channel and 60W RMS Into 4 Ohm, 4 channels)...

I am thinking I need a bigger alternator right?

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Wires have to be the same size. The big 3 won't eliminate dimming, it will just help minimize it. You're pulling over 100 amps through a stock alt that's probably 100 amps itself. You will have dimming even if you drop .1v. Only way to solve it is to get a bigger alternator, but it's honestly not really worth it for a 1000w amp. Unless you plan on upgrading later. If you're really that worried, get an extra agm battery in the trunk or replace the one under the hood with an agm style.

Edit: oh yeah, never take out the stock wiring for the big 3. ALWAYS add onto it with the larger wire.

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