m0rtin Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 is it okay/safe to do a big 3 without having an inline fuse on the positive alt wire?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 I'll just say my last 2 vehicles had a fuse between the alt and battery from the factory. I personally don't understand why someone would have a wire connected to a battery with out a fuse. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullz Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 If you choose to go fuseless i would highly recommend using wire loom and some techflex over the wireloom to give it as much protection as possible. 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0rtin Posted April 23, 2015 Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 would it be okay to upgrade just one ground instead of two? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted April 23, 2015 Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 would it be okay to upgrade just one ground instead of two? Do the alt case to frame if you only do one. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MotorCityFats13 Posted April 28, 2015 Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 from everything I know of.... the only difference from the big 3 vs big 4 is if you have a uni-body car or a frame vehicle.... since on uni-body the frame and body are one unit but on a truck the frame and body are separate and you would also need to add a cable between the 2 depending on where you ground your amps.... if you upgrade the wire on your frame but ground the amp to the body you have not improved this ground path....upgrading the ground path that the amp takes is just as important as the alternator since the equivalent ground of a frame/body is equal to 4awg after you figure in path of least resistance and most people with basic systems do not make additional ground runs from bat- to amp but yet feel the need to use larger wires than 4awg power.... causing a bottleneck in the ground path Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tattojackson Posted August 22, 2015 Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 I did it wrong the first time and paid dearly , cause nobody ever said to keep the oem. Alt to batt wire in place , that your just adding more wire , wish I would have known prior to keep it on also Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irocthestreetz Posted December 21, 2015 Report Share Posted December 21, 2015 Is it better to have the engine block grounded to the battery or to the frame? I originally had it going to battery but I just went our and mounted it to the frame. Is that the "correct" way to do it or is it all the same? Is it beneficial to do it both ways? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irocthestreetz Posted December 21, 2015 Report Share Posted December 21, 2015 Also with the big 4, I've heard that last step is adding a ground from the transmission what exactly does this do to help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fosgate36 Posted March 27, 2016 Report Share Posted March 27, 2016 how do i do the big 3 upgrade using a digital battery terminal only for the positive with my battery being under my backseat? i have a 2001 buick lesabre custom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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