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How To Do The Big 3: Tutorial

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how do i do the big 3 upgrade using a digital battery terminal only for the positive with my battery being under my backseat? i have a 2001 buick lesabre custom.

You run the same cable the same way just longer


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how do i do the big 3 upgrade using a digital battery terminal only for the positive with my battery being under my backseat? i have a 2001 buick lesabre custom.

You run the same cable the same way just longer

ok I'm new to this if you could give me a step by step set up or a diagram I would appreciate it. I have side post battery with the option of top post which is what I want to use.

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Read the very first post in this topic and do what it says. Doesn't matter if your battery is one inch away from your alt, or if it's in the rear of a truck bed. All the battery placement affects is the length of wire needed and the difficulty of running said wire.

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I have a question on this . I have a 73 C10 and my power from battery goes straight to starter and then to alternator. The only ground I see goes from battery to engine block. I just ordered the xs big 3 kit I want to clean all of this wiring up . All of the instructions say go from battery to alternator . Does anyone have any thought on running the current way or going from battery to alternator ?

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On 4/23/2014 at 11:05 PM, AvionicsTek said:

) Running your wire from the alternator all the way to your battery and then putting a fuse holder there defeats the purpose of the fuse all together. Again... The fuse is there to protect the wiring, so it doesn't make much sense to put it at the other end of the wiring in which it is supposed to protect. The fuse holder should be as close to the alternator as possible, because the alternator is the source of power. If the alternator spikes, it will blow the fuse, almost instantly, a few inches from the alternator, and no harm should come to the wiring. Otherwise, with the fuse being that far from the alternator means that if the alternator spikes (and you're not using appropriately sized wire for the highest of possible loads), it will burn the wiring, melt the fuse holder, and the fuse will probably still be intact after the fire department has left the scene. This is the same reason we put fuse/breaker, for amplifier power cables, are near the battery, and not near the amp. The battery is the power source (or buffer, rather) for the amp, and should the amp spike and overdraw current, it will blow the fuse or trip the breaker at the battery, and leave the wiring intact. So, in short... Cable terminated to positive post on alternator, directly to fuse/breaker close to alternator, then routed from fuse/breaker and terminated at battery's positive post, then wiring from battery positive post is terminated to fuse/breaker close to battery, then wiring routed from battery fuse/breaker and terminated to distribution blocks (near capacitors, amps, etc.), then routed from dist. blocks and terminated at capacitors, amps, etc. DIRECTLY after every power SOURCE (alternator or battery), there should be a breaker/fuse to protect the wiring from that point to the next.

is this accurate? ^^^^   sounds like it


 

 

 

 

 

this is my first build, i have been waiting 4-5 years to have this done

95 chevy 2 door tahoe 5.7

Xs power d3400

Singer 275amp alternator

Big 3 - all Knukonceptz Kolossus Fleks 0ga/ knu Fuses an holders

Sundown SAE-1500d

Mbquart onyx OA800.4

Stinger 4400 series RCAs and stinger volt meter

Fi Q NEO 18, 7.5 cubes tuned 32hz

Pioneer MVH-X690BS H/U

Kicker CSS 6.5 comp sets in front doors

Kicker KSC 4x10 coaxials in rear

GTMAT and FAT MAT deadner

Xenon 10k Blue HIDs

 

 

 

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What? A fuse at the alt? Ok then you need two because you need one at the battery too. Sorry I stopped reading after that.


91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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Hey guys sorry to revive an old thread but I have a question. For the engine to ground, it says to grab a bolt from the engine and ground it to the frame. Does it matter which bolt on the engine it is, or is it better if it’s from a certain part of the engine (timing cover, actual block) etc?

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