KeepItLow91 Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 I had two 12" Kicker comps on a 300 watt amp. The package deal came with all the wiring and a 30 amp fuse for the power wire. I took the subs and amp out and put in a DC 1.2k amp along with a DC XL 15". Everything was fine for about 3-4 weeks but I've blown 4 of the 30 amp power wire fuses in the past three days. First one I thought just went out, replaced with second one and it blew in about 15 seconds. Checked all my wiring and connections and put in a 3rd which blew in the same amount of time. Installed a new headunit and re-checked wiring/amp settings and installed fourth fuse which blew in about 5 seconds. I don't really know what I'm doing but I'm sure I need better wiring and a bigger fuse for the power wire. Along with that my amp settings might be off and my ground wire might be making contact through the wiring to the trunk floor because it has partially melted the adhesive or whatever is lining my trunk floor, the wiring itself is fine though. Walmart battery and stock alt, nothing modified to my car. Battery shows a charge of 14.3v when car is idle so the amp should be getting enough juice. I admit this is probably an obvious problem but with my money situation I don't want to be going through and replacing more things that isn't the problem. Any help is appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPagan Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 For that amp you are going to want 4 gauge power wire, and a 120 amp fuse. This amp wiring kit will work great for your setup: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOL-AK4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 You should look into doing the Big 3 , and reground your rear to the frame. I would go ahead and run 1/0 for the power but thats just me. Overkill is better than underkill. After you upgrade the wire and fuse your vehicles electrical will start to see the real draw of the amp. Also, find someone with a DD1 to set your gains properly or you'll end up clipping your system. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-train-13k Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 a 30 amp fuse? thats the issue. if your amp has fuses on it you should have a fuse under the hood that has slightly more than the overall amperage rating on the fuses of the amp. in your case i would jump up the fuse under the hood to a 120 or 150 amp fuse. since the 1.2ks can put out 1500 rms The IrishmanCheck out my build hereXL 4th order wall build logIn Progress:alpine cda HU4th order Bandpass2xl 15's1- ab 400.1 (gonna be two hopefully)4- Crescendo 8's2- xts crecendo supertweeters 2 sq super tweetsMb quart 4.125Mechman 270a alt1- xs D27003- xs XP3000 4- odessey pc1700seller feed back threadhttp://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/136418-d-train-13k/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Decaf Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 if the fuses are popping without playing the amp you have a short in your power wire if you have one inline 30a fuse, thats the problem, you need 120a make sure you have: 4g power wire 4g ground, connected to strut tower bolt or other thick metal with a bolt, no selftapping screws 120 ANL Fuse w/fuse holder invest in a stinger volt meter also, that will help let you know when your stock electrical cannot supply the amp with the needed current, never letting the car drop below 12.5v daily is a good set point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeepItLow91 Posted February 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 Thanks for all the replies everyone, good help as usual from the SMD family! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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