Borris The Blade Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 Looking good love the Monster in the trunk. Had a 88 gt a few years ago wanted to go the same route with the turbo but had to sell it. I just love mustangs will get another one someday. keep up the good work man. It's like rubbing your wiener up against a sheep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hifonicsmax1 Posted March 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 Looking good love the Monster in the trunk. Had a 88 gt a few years ago wanted to go the same route with the turbo but had to sell it. I just love mustangs will get another one someday. keep up the good work man. I am so happy I went turbo and if any mustang owners are interested in this kit I can get you special pricing from granatelli. I get 5-10% off anything if you mention me but its been a while so I would have to remind them and can possibly get more off the turbo kit. I have a few surprises with this build that will be shown later as I progress. Click for My Current Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hifonicsmax1 Posted March 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 I went to Skycraft Parts & Surplus today and seen they have Monster Cable 10 AWG speaker wire that are actually helpful for my install so I picked them up for $18. I seen the same thing on Amazon for $50 but 20ft for 10AWG of speaker wire at $18 seemed like a deal to me. Also got some dampening done and cleaned up my wiring. This is how the trunk looks with racks not finished. Click for My Current Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vetkilr01 Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 Looking good bro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hifonicsmax1 Posted March 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 Kind of have a question for anyone that might know the answer. I have a 270amp alternator running to my front battery then the front battery running to my rear battery. The rear batter will power my 3 amps. Each amp will use 0AWG wire and the multi channel uses 4AWG. My wire from the first battery to the rear battery is about 13ft long. Should I add another 0AWG between the two batteries or is the 1 enough. I know the standard is 0 AWG is rated for 300 amps and the wire I am using is kickers 0 AWG wire which seems very solid. For safety reasons I am running 2 fuses, both being less than 12" from the battery. Update on build: Wont get much done this weekend because I am having to restore a 1970's Kawasaki KE100 dirt bike with about 500 original miles on it. My plan is to start body work to my boxes next week and fiberglass the 3rd amp piece. Then that weekend hopefully get some work on the box done in the back seat. I need to figure out how I want to design it so I can calculate the volume. Click for My Current Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HondaChad Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 Lookin nice, Imma tune in despite you owning a Ford 1 '12 Massive Audio TORO 124 powered by a Rockford Fosgate Power 500a2 (pushes around 705 watts @ 2ohms) Orion Xtreme 500.4 powering Orion HCCA Competition 6s component set w/ tweeters and MB Quart component set w/ tweeters Kenwood KDC-348U Head Unit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hifonicsmax1 Posted March 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 I have the EQ installed, though not hooked up to any amps yet. I didn't really see a good spot that I wanted it and I want it hidden anyways. I don't prefer the location I chose but it wouldn't fit in the center console. It will do for now. It's the earthquake sound 7band EQ. I chose it due to its unique frequency ranges when compaired to most other EQs. I wanted one that was different than my headunits built in EQ to attempt to get a more accurate range. I also liked the 7V to the mutlichannel and up to 12V to a sub amp. The wires are just sitting in the glove compartment for now but I plan on tucking them back when I go to add the amps, I didn't want to unless I changed my mind on the placement, it's actually all hooked up. Its held in using velcro tape and its very strong. The use of velcro means no vibrations will be hear by it due to the dampening of the velcro. Picture from how I see it in the driver seat. It seems a bit far away but I plan on not using it much and still adjusting volume from the head unit. I will only need it for controlling bass most likely. I've had this headunit installed for some time but I figured I'd show how it looks in the car as well as my gauges and gauge pod. I took it on my drive today so sorry about it being bright. I never pulled the protective plastic off the gauges yet so if your wondering, that's what that is. Was listening to Flaw. Click for My Current Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hifonicsmax1 Posted March 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2012 I pulled my back getting my new project back to Orlando and on my second story balcony of my apt (1970s KE100 dirt bike with 300original miles. Had bad gas in it for a long time and attempted to be started so the engine probably needs cleaned). I plan on doing my fiberglassing on the third rack and starting the back seat box this weekend but probably not much work. School has me busy atm, I may try to get a bit technical on the dampening for fun. I have an accelerometer that I can attach to my car and with tapping be able to tell the frequency and amplitude that the metal is seeing to see if it needs dampened (though I don’t have any more). I can also use this to compare dampened vs undampened. I know the roof of mustangs are horrible. If you tap it lightly is sounds like a thunder storm but dampened its a lot smoother. Still hoping someone chimes in about my question if I need to run 2 x 0AWG wires from the front battery to the rear or if 1 is enough. I have enough wire but not enough fuse holders atm. Click for My Current Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hifonicsmax1 Posted March 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 Well my back still hurts but I decided to suck it up and get back to work. I recieved some extra terminals for my 0AWG and 4AWG wires. I also ran out of cups and never picked up more. So I made my own mixing cup for the resin. I also have a few 1/2" thick acrylic pieces, wonder what they are for? I hope something good! Heres a picture of the fiberglass laid out and cut for optimal placement. This amp rack is a bit harder to fiberglass than the other ones since it has virtually no thickness that means the fiberglass would have to do a 180 turn and stick. With this being more time consuming than it would be worth. I decided that I would just let it hang and I would cut and sand it later. 2.0matt is a bit thick. I also ran into a slight problem while applying the resin. I didn't have much left in my can and I didn't think I'd have trouble opening a new one when I needed more resin. Ended up wasting 30mins trying to get the next one opened with about 1" of dried resin around the top. Had to just drill into it. Cover the top with foil tape but Its making me work a little faster on my box since thats the next thing that needs resin, so I will try to get some work done on that tomorrow. The picture below shows what I have to fix as a result of my 30min of wasted time getting more resin. Just another learning lesson and nothing extra work cant fix. I should be getting the car retuned this weekend. I'm hoping for something near 500hp, but it will probably be closer to 450RWHP. I'm not running a solid 10psi. It's running at about 9psi and at 7psi I got 400hp with a vaccuum leak. Click for My Current Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hifonicsmax1 Posted April 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 Alright, as an update for my project I was not able to get my car re-tuned last weekend. Some idiot (me) left their tuner at home on their way to the car show. So I will have to try to get it tuned sometime next week. Gave a mustang with a a Procharger at 10psi and cams and a bunch of other little things a decent run with a bad tune at 9psi, Plus I was in a higher gear not really planning on running hard. Anyways, thanks to help from a few members I am running a second 0 AWG wire to my rear battery and had to order 2 new fuse holders. Since I liked my old kicker ones I bought 2 more but I do not care for the new design so I wish I didn't waste the money, but it's done. I've been tired of my HID wiring set up, so I cleaned it up a bit. I had to cut the terminal in order to get it on the bolt. I couldn't get the bottom piece off. Theres a bit of extra wires in the corner, but I will have that covered with an external radiator cover that will be modified with fiberglass. If you look at a previous engine picture, you will see the difference. I also started the hole for the 2nd 0AWG wire. I didn't have my dremel so I will make it cleaner hopefully this weekend and run the wire. I've been very busy lastly with a separate project as well so things have been slow. Cuttin 1/4" plate and cutting 1" solid square bar. Also I'm graduating in a month with a mechanical Engineering degree so a few school things may end up keeping me at a slow pace. Hoping to get some wood cut this weekend if I'm able to head to a buddy's place on Saturday. I'll try to do all the cuts for my box and get the box started. Hopefully fix my third amp rack as well. I have a good idea on how to fix it, but the method is not something I'm not proud to announce. Click for My Current Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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