01ExSport Posted March 18, 2012 Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 Honestly, it may cost a bit more money, but you'd save yourself a ton of headaches if you were to do full runs of negative to the front batt. But what you have seems to be on track, and yes fuse the 2 runs going from the battery to the DC amp according to it's draw. I'm assuming either 200 or 250x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moh.vze.com Posted March 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 Ah. So there's a competition coming up. Wow. I chose a hell of a time to do an SPL build and I don't even compete As for your runs, if you have 3 positive runs wouldn't it be better to have 3 negative runs also since current flow in a loop? What kind of wire are you using? As for Shok Wires, I've e-mailed the company and they said this: "the new comp series will be a 5285 strand count full copper cable and will have a new combination (strand layout will be different and upgraded aka Beefier) i'm pushing for the cables to be ready for shipping in May. " Well I guess for now I'll just chill and wait for everything to come back into production since I'm also waiting on a 270A DC Power Alt for my engine. My goal is to have everything done by end of June. DC Audio - Singer Alternators - Knukonceptz - XS Power - Hybrid Audio - Rockford Fosgate - Second Skin Audio - SMD - Sundown Audio - Elemental Designs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bighossf150 Posted March 19, 2012 Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 ^ ^ So, D2400 Hood Batt--> 2x 1/0 Power Wire Run --> 2x 300A Fuse Holders --> Trunk --> 2x 300A Fuse Holders --> XP3000 Trunk Batt XP3000 Trunk Batt --> 2x 1/0 Wire Power Run --> 2x 300A Fuse Holder --> DC5K Amp (Assuming the 5k Amp that I get will require 2x Power Runs) XP3000 Trunk Batt --> 1x 1/0 Wire Power Run Power --> 1x 300A Fuse Holder -->PPi P900.4 Amp DC5k Amp --> 1x 1/0 Wire Ground Run --> Distribution Ground Fuse Block? --> Frame PPi P900.4 Amp --> 1x 1/0 Wire Ground Run --> Same Distribution Ground Fuse Block --> Frame So I need, 7x Inline 300A Fuse Holders & 1 Distribution Ground Block or more? Can someone help me with the diagram here? Can't I just use a distribution block somewhere in this equation to cut down on the Inline Fuse Holders? Also, should I use some 4 Gauge wire during the amp part in the trunk or should I stick with all 1/0 Wire? Oh I'm also guessing the Fuse Holder or Distribution blocks for the powers on the amp will not be 300A and will be something else according to the Amp fuse ratings? Im still waiting on some fuse holders but this is how my truck will be wired, knu kca 1/0 for everything except alt to batt which is 4/0 welding wire and 4 channel to batt which is knu kca 4awg quick ms paint drawing lol Used to have a loud truck 2009 Corvette Z06, H/C/I, 150 shot, g force tune, 730rwhp/690rwtq 2013 F-150 limited, MPT Tune, leveled on 35"s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moh.vze.com Posted March 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 So I've decided to just buy 100ft of 1/0 Wire (Might go with Shok's new comp wire when they get it in). My question regarding my wiring is, should I skip the distribution block and just run two wires from trunk battery to 2x fuse then to amp and then another run from trunk batt to fuse#3 and amp#2? As for grounding, should the amps in the trunk be grounded to the trunk battery? I've noticed most people grounding the trunk battery to the frame of trunk and then grounding the amps to that same frame. Here's my diagram: http://forum.edesignaudio.com/picture.php?albumid=363&pictureid=5216 DC Audio - Singer Alternators - Knukonceptz - XS Power - Hybrid Audio - Rockford Fosgate - Second Skin Audio - SMD - Sundown Audio - Elemental Designs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXdriver11 Posted March 19, 2012 Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 Good choice going with a big spool of wire. Regardless of mfg (as long as its ofc) you will thank yourself when you have a spool instead of 18' strands and end up needing 19' because of a turn that you didnt notice. And yes ground the amps to the trunk batt. Its right there and its the path of least resistance back to the batt. Rebuild Log with the SMD CURRENT.. Honda Accord Coupe Porsche Cayenne S Lexus CT200 Lexus ES300 (sold) 99 Lexus RX 300 (sold)ADDING Honda - Hertz setup, more to come Porsche - Fi BL, XS Power, more to comecoming soon..peep the old rebuild log of the Lexus RX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moh.vze.com Posted March 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 As far as the original 4 AWG wire that I already have, would it make any difference if I use it with the 2 Positve runs of 1/0 AWG or should I just take it out for wiring the other amp with 4AWG. Will current flow in all 3 wires or will it totally ignore that 4AWG and take the other 2 paths? DC Audio - Singer Alternators - Knukonceptz - XS Power - Hybrid Audio - Rockford Fosgate - Second Skin Audio - SMD - Sundown Audio - Elemental Designs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getlocivic Posted March 19, 2012 Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 i ran runs of 0g in my beretta took seats and carpet out i actually had to drill holes in the firewall bc a beretta doesnt have any holes that coulc be used.. then after 2 runs of 0g in i laid down a layer of peel n seal to secure everything etc (got second skin everywhere else but the floor of car ) ive seen many guys who have 4 plus runs they run em under the car or truck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01ExSport Posted March 19, 2012 Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 You don't really need that frame ground for your rear battery, although there's no such thing as too many grounds it may introduce noise. Just do 2 runs of + and - from your front battery to rear, fusing each end. Then run fused power runs from your back battery to both amps, and ground your amps to your back battery, which in turn grounds them to your front battery. I think you might've been overcomplicating it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moh.vze.com Posted March 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 You don't really need that frame ground for your rear battery, although there's no such thing as too many grounds it may introduce noise. Just do 2 runs of + and - from your front battery to rear, fusing each end. Then run fused power runs from your back battery to both amps, and ground your amps to your back battery, which in turn grounds them to your front battery. I think you might've been overcomplicating it. Thanks. I've got it down now. Next step is to see if I can fit all 4 wires through that rubber thing for the streering wheel. The Knu Inline Fuse holders are too pricey... $19.99. What kind of price should I be aiming for with Fuse Holders? $15.00 ea? DC Audio - Singer Alternators - Knukonceptz - XS Power - Hybrid Audio - Rockford Fosgate - Second Skin Audio - SMD - Sundown Audio - Elemental Designs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXdriver11 Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 Ebay ANL fuse holders. Sort by lowest price. Buy. Be happy.. Rebuild Log with the SMD CURRENT.. Honda Accord Coupe Porsche Cayenne S Lexus CT200 Lexus ES300 (sold) 99 Lexus RX 300 (sold)ADDING Honda - Hertz setup, more to come Porsche - Fi BL, XS Power, more to comecoming soon..peep the old rebuild log of the Lexus RX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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