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I'm upgrading my wiring plus its "messy" right now.

Here is my diagram, tell me if I need to add fuses or whatever.

All wiring will be 2/0 prene flex welding cable except to amps I'll be using 1/0

ANL fuses will be 200 or 250

Batteries: Shuriken BT-35, and 2 bt-20's

The two squares behind the skar amp are distribution blocks made out of aluminum.

87782f19.jpg

Edited by HunterJohnson

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well in theory you should have your postiive to your alt fused. both ends fo your front to back fused.

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If you're running a separate ground wire to the rear, then make sure the body of the alternator is well connected to that wire.

Or that the alternator has a clean connection to its mounting bracket and then ground your battery to the chassis/engine.

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well in theory you should have your postiive to your alt fused. both ends fo your front to back fused.

What do you mean both ends of your front to back fused? Are you saying the pos and neg from the front battery fused?

If you're running a separate ground wire to the rear, then make sure the body of the alternator is well connected to that wire.

Or that the alternator has a clean connection to its mounting bracket and then ground your battery to the chassis/engine.

It's a stock alt, I know HO alts have grounds on the back but does my stock one have a ground aswell.

here is my revised drawing with an ANL fuse from pos of front to pos of rear batteries.

e4fbc440.jpg

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on the + run from front to back, add another fuse just before the back batt and looks like your golden.

Just wondering why there should be two on one run?

Here it is edited again:

d1f23ef5.jpg

Edited by HunterJohnson

Scion tC SQ Build
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because if there is a short in the middle of the wire you need to protect both batteries. the front fuse blowing without a back fuse means that your back batteries dump all their power as a direct short. then you have a place to cook your marshmallows.

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Stock alts are grounded through the bracket/engine.

Make sure you have another run from your front battery ground to the alt bracket/engine.

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2004 BMW M3
Mechman 280A
2 - XS Power XP3000

1 - XS Power D375

500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F)
iPadMini2

Dash mounted O-scope
Audison bitOne (Remote DRC MP)
Highs Amp - PPI Art A404
Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...)
DC Audio DC9.0K
2- DC Audio XL12m2

LEGAL             - 147.3dB @ 41Hz
OUTLAW         - 150.2dB @ 45Hz

OUTLAW         - 145.7dB @ 30Hz
JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER

2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER

SOTM BUILD:
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026

sig-sized6_zps0265e669.png

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because if there is a short in the middle of the wire you need to protect both batteries. the front fuse blowing without a back fuse means that your back batteries dump all their power as a direct short. then you have a place to cook your marshmallows.

Thanks didnt know a wire could short in the middle!! Then again I just started reading and understanding electrical/wiring

Stock alts are grounded through the bracket/engine.

Make sure you have another run from your front battery ground to the alt bracket/engine.

cool, I did the big 3, but when I learned that grounding to the frame is basically using the car's frame as a wire to ground it back to the battery I decided I wanted to just do a direct run from the neg in the front to the neg in the back.

I'm calculating all the costs as I speak (type) and picking up some welding 2/0 on wednesday hopefully!

Scion tC SQ Build
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Ford Explorer C Pillar Wall Build

Just a cheap car to destroy with bass :D

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