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Underpowering Subs vs Giving RMS


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Haha^^^^ or motorforce is king

I've never had such definitive results it all depends on how big the big driver actually was. Learn something new everyday.

same thing with DD3500 and 9500 series btw

as far as running a small amp on a larger sub. just set it properly and its not going to matter what subs on it. It will just do what its supposed to do.

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the only way to "stress" an amp so to speak, is raise the signal voltage from the hu in turn raising the volume in turn more wattage and heat. A stronger sub isn't going to inhibit watt production or strain the amp.

29408240963_9908a51930_o.png
Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's]

BL :  http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/

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It is more of a theoretical performance question alpine.

29408240963_9908a51930_o.png
Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's]

BL :  http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/

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Your not thinking of running both subs at the same time in the same car are you?

Please tell me why he cannot. . .

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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The two key variables here is the larger speakers motor and suspension. If it has a very stiff spider pack designed to keep the cone under control at or above 1k it will restrict output on the driver at 250w. Whereas the smaller driver will have the correct motor and spiders to be most efficient at that power. If the big driver has a relatively soft spiderpack for a 1k driver it may perform closely with the smaller driver because the extra motorforce on the larger one will compensate for the stiffer setup.

My. 02

So a subwoofer with a stiff spider pack that is underpowered is less efficient?

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so heres why im asking. i have 2 12 mtx sub in a sealed box that can take 400rms (so they are underpower actually) and my amp gives 250......im putting in a 15" skar sub that is 600rms (planning on pushing it to about 1000 daily) in a ported box at 35hz. even though the sub is less area, it is ported, and take more. so hopeing itll be way way louder....but for now i only have that 250rms amp. would i be better off keping my set up and waiting for a bigger amp?

Rule of thumb is if you're giving your subs less than RMS, you need a bigger box, if you're giving them more, then a smaller box. So If you choose to buy the sub, and keep the 250W amp until you can get a bigger one, then you can either build a new box each time, or just build it small for when you get the 1000W. If you do build it small the first time, then it will have less output at 250W than a bigger box, but you'll save money on wood.

BUT, if I were you, I would just wait till you have everything, just so you can make sure everything fits together the first time. You never know if for some reason the new amp doesn't fit where you wanted it and you have to redesign the whole setup.

Edited by LZTYBRN
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