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I need electrical advice


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k, 9 whatever at idle, throttle to 2 large and report back, i also drive a acura, honda.......the alty may not even charge at idle.....throttle up and see what you see.....

edit - Dc told me, that some honda's wont charge at idle.... so, im just asking.... what is your idle RPM? mine rolls at 800,.. where do you sit?\

EDIT 2 - if you see 9 sitting, you arent charging, belt slip, or not, ......

Edited by KyLar96
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k, 9 whatever at idle, throttle to 2 large and report back, i also drive a acura, honda.......the alty may not even charge at idle.....throttle up and see what you see.....

edit - Dc told me, that some honda's wont charge at idle.... so, im just asking.... what is your idle RPM? mine rolls at 800,.. where do you sit?\

EDIT 2 - if you see 9 sitting, you arent charging, belt slip, or not, ......

this is very true. a low enough idle rpm can be below the minimum turn on speed of the alt. causing these exact problems.

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k, 9 whatever at idle, throttle to 2 large and report back, i also drive a acura, honda.......the alty may not even charge at idle.....throttle up and see what you see.....

edit - Dc told me, that some honda's wont charge at idle.... so, im just asking.... what is your idle RPM? mine rolls at 800,.. where do you sit?\

EDIT 2 - if you see 9 sitting, you arent charging, belt slip, or not, ......

750 idle. I have installed a mod that will force the alt to charge (ELD bypass) at whatever rpm. I'll try to take some more measurements. From what I remember, from the cig lighter voltmeter I have without the radio on I will be at like 14.2v. Measurements back at the amps will be at like 13.5v

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Ok I have just been to the twilight zone. I took several measurements all with the stereo NOT playing (ie volume 0 and no source playing). Car running voltage at the battery was 14.1/14.2v as expected. Voltage at the ground and positive inputs on the 1000/1 amp is 12.05v WTF. Ok so I disconnect the + from the distro block and measure voltage directly from the wire to ground and I get 14.1v. So I am thinking maybe something is wrong with the distro block. So to test that I take measurements on the outputs of the distro block with both amps disconnected and I get 14.1v????? So now it seems it is down to the amps somehow. I now hook up only the 300/4 amp and measure voltage at the disto block and I get 13.8v??? Then I hook up only the 1000/1 and I get 13.7v at the distro block. With both of the amps hooked up I get 13.4v at the distro block. Here is where it really gets weird. I decide to measure ohms (continuity) for my ground. With no amps connected the negative battery post to my chassis ground is 0.0 ohms. However with one amp connected the same measurement is like 11.9 ohms (it is fluctuating some but it is around this much). With both amps connected the ohm readings were fluctuating between 16 and 18 ohms???? My memory is starting to get foggy now but I measured continuity between the distro block ground input and car chassis with the amps connected and it was 0 like you would expect. I did the same measurement from the positive to chassis and it was 0 ohms. WTF???? So then I measure continuity between the positive and negative inputs on the distro block and it is an open circuit like you would expect. I don't know what the hell is going on with that. The bottom line seems to be that the amps are somehow introducing resistance into my chassis. Everything seems normal until I have the amps hooked to the distro block. Here are some other measurements I took before all of the above happened just to give the rest of the info. Again stereo was not playing.

Car off- voltage at battery posts 12.36v, voltage at 1000/1 12.3v

Car running at idle- voltage at battery posts 14.11v, voltage at 1000/1 12.05v WTF?????

Car running at idle A/C on max, rear defrost on- voltage at battery posts 13.89v voltage at 1000/1 11.57v WTF (voltage at 1000/1 was fluctuating some)

Somebody please explain what the hell is going on here?

To clarify the really low voltages above (11.57 and 12.05) were taken before I relocated my ground point and added a separate distro block for the grounds. Originally the positive wire and the ground wire were going into a single distro block but because of the weirdness I was experiencing I decided to put the grounds on their own distro block, but as you can see I still have weird stuff happening even though the voltages looked a little better.

Edited by bird333
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I may have been in error about the ohm readings. I may have had the meter on the wrong setting (at least the ones taken at the battery). However, why does connecting my amps make the measured voltage at the distro block drop? I just took another measurement and it was down to 12.27v but the battery is still at 14.17v. Opinions please?

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I may have been in error about the ohm readings. I may have had the meter on the wrong setting (at least the ones taken at the battery). However, why does connecting my amps make the measured voltage at the distro block drop? I just took another measurement and it was down to 12.27v but the battery is still at 14.17v. Opinions please?

When you say connecting - do you mean its just plugged in or powered on playing music ?

Also, did you mention earlier that you are grounded to the floorpan?? if yes relocate to a quality ground - do you have a picture of your Big 3 ground location ?

CURRENT SYSTEM:

  • Alternator:
    1. Stock alt on mids/highs
    2. Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v
  • Batteries: (2) XS D1400s
  • Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks
  • Headunit: 80-PRS
  • Sub Amp: DC 5.0k
  • Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones
  • Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal.
  • Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4
  • Active Components:
    • Mids RE XXX 6.5c
    • Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar)
  • Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab.

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Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
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