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Great to see a box in that pain in the butt of a car. Dagburn I didn't know I still did ghetto with my wires :( . This build is the kind I like to see Omega. Advise/tricks is given to help on later builds,we know there willbe,from the ones who are trying to help and not being a smart butt. The only thing I would like to seen done.............that in my old Volvo not yours :) . Keep up the good work man. Now next break get your butt out there and Git R Dun so I can see some Volvo abuse lol.

Thanks Dog :)

That box was a pain to get in the car, that's for sure, to even get it in, I had to remove the rear door panel, all the seats, move the front seats all the way up front, and remove the bolt terminals, and subs. Even had to hammer the metal piece that holds the backseats together(course I hammered it back up). Then I almost got the box in though, but the corners of the box were in the way, so I basically took my jig saw, and cut the sides off. Got the box in, though had to ditch the spare, and trunk floor cover, spare is now in the back seat lol. Trunk space is literally gone, all there is left is the side of the box to put 2 or 3 extra batteries.

To be honest, I never though I'd get this far, but you, and few others helped me greatly through this.

So thank you everyone who helped :)

When I come home from school, gonna mount the amps, neatly organize, and run all the wires, and see if I get it playing before or at dark.

Also wanna get it playing so I can go to a show, and have it metered, if I break 140, that would make me happy for sure :)

2003 Kia Sorento

Team Subsonic Lows
Team Bassin' on a Budget


2016 Rebuild Under Construction

Best score: 150.2 at 40hz (3k, 2 Custom HDC3 15's) Usaci style(door open, in the kick)

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Ok, First off, Ghost has no business giving anyone advise or saying anything looks ghetto. You're out of your place. . Take a few steps back. However, I'll give some constructive criticism, and tell you a couple things on those wires.

First the sub wires, a better thing might be to cut some off around the wire so it fits inside the plug completely without frey. Then, because the cable is obviously going to have some thickness to it, you can heatshrink it. Just a cleaner look. Not saying it's bad, but probably a better and even more secure way to do it. But to do it the right way, I'd say just do direct lead. Just a suggestion. I know you're working with what you have, and that's fine. I understand.

Second, on your ground, plastidip itself isn't going to really protect the frey. Again, I would do a couple of things. If the block is all you have, then trim the wire a bit so it goes in completely with no frey. It's a ground, it's not going to matter, cause if a power wire hits anything around it that's metal you're gonna have the firework show anyway. But To clean it up, I'd trim the cable down, heat shrink it until it rolls over the jacket onto the actual cable. Then you can put it in the block. The heatshrink on the cable will help the wire stay compacted to a certain extent.

The other way to do it is buy a couple of ring termials and solder them and bolt those directly and bypass the block all together.

Just some helpful tips on how I would do it. Will help to clean some of it up.

I DO LIKE, how far you've come. :twirl: Shows me you're paying attention around here to those that are trying to help you, and you're actually learning a thing or two. Can't say the same for alot of folks around that I can see. But that's another conversation for another day.

Keep up the good work buddy!! You're well on your way! How did that tool work out for you by the way. looks like a nice little tool to have in the tool box! What's it like 1" wide from tip to tip? Looks pretty compact.

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Ok, First off, Ghost has no business giving anyone advise or saying anything looks ghetto. You're out of your place. . Take a few steps back. However, I'll give some constructive criticism, and tell you a couple things on those wires.

First the sub wires, a better thing might be to cut some off around the wire so it fits inside the plug completely without frey. Then, because the cable is obviously going to have some thickness to it, you can heatshrink it. Just a cleaner look. Not saying it's bad, but probably a better and even more secure way to do it. But to do it the right way, I'd say just do direct lead. Just a suggestion. I know you're working with what you have, and that's fine. I understand.

Second, on your ground, plastidip itself isn't going to really protect the frey. Again, I would do a couple of things. If the block is all you have, then trim the wire a bit so it goes in completely with no frey. It's a ground, it's not going to matter, cause if a power wire hits anything around it that's metal you're gonna have the firework show anyway. But To clean it up, I'd trim the cable down, heat shrink it until it rolls over the jacket onto the actual cable. Then you can put it in the block. The heatshrink on the cable will help the wire stay compacted to a certain extent.

The other way to do it is buy a couple of ring termials and solder them and bolt those directly and bypass the block all together.

Just some helpful tips on how I would do it. Will help to clean some of it up.

I DO LIKE, how far you've come. :twirl: Shows me you're paying attention around here to those that are trying to help you, and you're actually learning a thing or two. Can't say the same for alot of folks around that I can see. But that's another conversation for another day.

Keep up the good work buddy!! You're well on your way! How did that tool work out for you by the way. looks like a nice little tool to have in the tool box! What's it like 1" wide from tip to tip? Looks pretty compact.

Yeah, I don't know what's Ghost's problem, he calls my install method ghetto, yet he's the guy who put a butt connector on a power wire, go figure.

I know I could have done a little better with the speaker wire, though I was afraid that if cut the wire to fit inside the terminal cause if I cut 8 gauge to the size of 16 gauge, then I would be afraid of the wire breaking or slipping off.

I could trimmed off a little, that's very true, but at least I used a high quality heat shrink(ones that need a heat gun) to protect and cover it the best I can, I was almost tempted to use electrical tape but I wanted to do better and use a heatshrink. The wire is secure, that's the important part.

For the ground wire,I can trim off the frey as well, but I wasn't extremely concern because it's a ground wire, so worse case scenario is that the wire touches more metal for electrons to go to. Now if it was a power wire, then I would be extremely concern cause if a strand touches any metal, bad things can happen.

I can slide in one of my heatshrinks to that particular wire, and shrink it down, that's for sure.

I used a terminal block instead of a ring terminal due to the fact that I don't have proper tools to proper crimp it or solder. Using a hammer always failed for me, and I only soldered with a soldering iron instead of a blowtorch, which failed for me as well, so I didn't want anything that would cause slippage, which would be terrible with a ground.

My goal though is to save up for a 8 or 12 ton hydraulic crimper so I can make sure all my wires are secure when I use ring terminals or lugs.

Thank you Scott, and I'm always willing to take advice, and learn, I still have a lot to learn that's for sure, and I'm always willing to improve on what I can improve on.

That tool is very useful actually when you can't reach screws, and yeah, it's about an inch actually. It's made by Husky, and it's only about $8(after tax for me) at Home Depot. Now my subs are screwed in and secure.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100038024?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=husky+screwdriver&storeId=10051&N=5yc1v&R=100038024

2003 Kia Sorento

Team Subsonic Lows
Team Bassin' on a Budget


2016 Rebuild Under Construction

Best score: 150.2 at 40hz (3k, 2 Custom HDC3 15's) Usaci style(door open, in the kick)

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All sounds good to me. Keep at it man, you're getting there. I'd save up though, for sure, and get a torch for your terminals. Crimping is probably really good, I've honestly never done it because I've always soldered, but I might try it out.

I've been on a kind of rampage lately, but I am truly trying to help, so feel free to ask if you have any questions. If I don't know the answer, then chances are I know someone who does, and we'll learn something together. I'm always still learning! Part of what makes us better!

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All sounds good to me. Keep at it man, you're getting there. I'd save up though, for sure, and get a torch for your terminals. Crimping is probably really good, I've honestly never done it because I've always soldered, but I might try it out.

I've been on a kind of rampage lately, but I am truly trying to help, so feel free to ask if you have any questions. If I don't know the answer, then chances are I know someone who does, and we'll learn something together. I'm always still learning! Part of what makes us better!

The torch and vice would be cheaper for than the hydraulic crimper, but I can always learn to do both, that's for sure.

I can always ask if I'm stumped, that's for sure, and there's always everything to learn, that's for sure.

2003 Kia Sorento

Team Subsonic Lows
Team Bassin' on a Budget


2016 Rebuild Under Construction

Best score: 150.2 at 40hz (3k, 2 Custom HDC3 15's) Usaci style(door open, in the kick)

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Shop harbor freight too. Always cheap stuff there. Not the torch, just get that at depo or lowes. But you know what I mean. You don't have to have the best right now, but eventually when you get good at it you'll want to have it. But that gives you time to save up and afford the best. That's what I do anyway. Cheap to get by, best when I'm good enough to own the best.

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Around the sub terminal, there's not really much you can do except what you did Thales. The only thing you could do is use speaker pins but they don't make them for 8 gauge.

That ground is definitely not ghetto. this thin braid wire is bitch to get them all in. Besides, what's a stray strand gonna do, touch the chassis and ground out LOL?

2007 Pacifica
Rebuild. Less quiet. Still not loud.

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Shop harbor freight too. Always cheap stuff there. Not the torch, just get that at depo or lowes. But you know what I mean. You don't have to have the best right now, but eventually when you get good at it you'll want to have it. But that gives you time to save up and afford the best. That's what I do anyway. Cheap to get by, best when I'm good enough to own the best.

I know about Harbor Freight, that's where I got my c clamps, and goggles lol. I'll go there for simple tools that I need for little things that I won't do often. Though, I was almost tempted to get the Hydraulic crimper there, till I learned that the dies aren't the right size, so rather save up $10 more, and get the ebay one.

Torch I'll definitely get from Lowes, and since one of my best friend's is a welder, he can help me pick the correct one with the correct attachments.

2003 Kia Sorento

Team Subsonic Lows
Team Bassin' on a Budget


2016 Rebuild Under Construction

Best score: 150.2 at 40hz (3k, 2 Custom HDC3 15's) Usaci style(door open, in the kick)

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