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Found 15 results

  1. Hello Everyone, It's been awhile since I've been on the forum, but I'm in the midst of my new audio build and I've run into some issues. I'd really like help to problem solve these issues. I'm running an active 2 way front stage and a 12" sub in the rear. First things first, here is a short run down of the parts related to my issues: H/U= Pioneer 80prs. network mode. internal amp off. running directly to my 4 channel amp and sub signal to my monoblock. 4-chan amp: Jensen Power 400.4 rated at 75w rms @ 4 ohms per channel monoblock: Hifonics brutus brx1600.1 First issue. I was beginning to set the gains on my amps, but when setting them I can only seem to turn the gains about 5 to 10 degrees above minimal gain before distortion on both amps. I'm using a DSO oscilloscope to see distortion in the signal. On the 4 channel amp, I measured 4.9v from the deck and nearly 17v out of the amp. Does that sound right? The math seems to check out. 17v on a 4 ohm load gives 4.25 amps equalling 72ish watts. Is it normal to only turn the gain knob a few degrees? Issue two. Stick with me for this one. Since the 80prs' high frequency outputs lowest setting is about 1.25kHz, I used the midrange rca's to set the gains for the tweeters and mids. I used a 100hz and 1k Hz test tones at 0db , -2.5db, and -5db. During this test is when I noticed an issue. I had the drivers side speaker wires unplugged from the amp and all rca's unplugged except the driver side mid rca. I had that plugged into channel 4 which is set up to be the driver mid. (note: channels 3/4 share a gain and 1/2 have a gain, so 3/4 are mids and 1/2 are tweets.) When I played a 1k Hz tone into channel 4 (driver side mid) I heard an audible, but low volume tone out of the passenger mid. I played pink noise to test and I heard an even more noticeable static sound out of the passenger mid. Now I might be wrong, but if the rca for that channel is unplugged, shouldn't that speaker be completely silent? Just another thing, I left all the gains where the scope showed clean signal, where I left it was set using a 100Hz -2.5db tone at max headunit volume, and playing music at max volume the sound is what I would call regular driving volume. It is not loud. You can definitely talk to the passenger with the volume at max. There should be more volume. In the previous build, I had the same amps and a pioneer avh double din and the gains were set by ear. That system got so much louder it's laughable. The last build the gains were set at around 75% with no audible distortion. Now they are at around 10%. So I'm curious, bad amp? bad scope? Help, Please.
  2. http://www.facebook.com/#!/groups/167262216706680/ A couple local guys say they can tune there amps my ear 100% distortion free. They think a dd-1 or o scope is a waste of money. I want to know if it is posible for the ear to pick up every bit of distortion. Here is link to the convo. The convo is the comments on the black sub box with 50+ comments.
  3. I have been wanting a dd-1 for months now but when will they be in stock? Or any good alternative osci-scopes that are under 200 and worth a damn? sorry for posting gen I wasn't sure what this qualifies under
  4. so I dd-1 and cc-1 my 2 fi btl 18s running at 4 ohms since I don't have charging system in my Silverado to run them at 1 ohm. im running them off a mtx te1501d wired with 1/0. Anyways I did everything to the T on instructions as far as I know I crossed it at 80hz and my amp gain is almost all the way up without clipping and head unit was measured as well but I have been using it since thurs and at high volumes I am starting to smell my speakers burning and im wondering why since im only pushing these at 4 ohms with a little over 600 watts and it shouldn't be clipping, what did I do wrong. when I did my head unit I set settings to flat I did everything I was supposed to.
  5. I recently found a really nice old school Punch45 on eBay. Here's the guts I also connected the amp up to a resistor bank at 4.14ohms and did a power test. Source was an Alpine CDA-9851 using the SMD DD-1 40Hz 0dB Test Track. I tuned the amp with the DD-1 and was able to max out the gains with a clean signal from the Alpine. Then I turned up the Bass Boost knob until the signal started to distort, according to the DD-1. As you can see on the amp's cover, its rated at 22.5W/CH @ 4ohms. It lists 35W/CH @ 2ohms so bridged @ 4ohms you would expect 70W. Well, here's the bridged output to the resistor bank: Measurement "P6" gives a clean 95W! This little guy is probably capable of more output since I just quickly wired up the resistor bank with alligator jumpers. I also used some simple wire jumpers to tap into the molex plug for the speaker outputs. If I got a proper molex adapter and thicker wires to improve the loading connection, I'm sure she'll do more.
  6. So after getting to play with the Skar Audio VVX subs - http://www.stevemead...-audio-vvx-12s/ we were anxious to try the amps of the same brand.... and here they are, in Russia, posing for a quick photoshoot along with the awesome SMD DD-1 and CC-1 that we got from Steve We already had the VVX12's out of the Audi (and sold actually as quite a few people were very impressed by their abilities) and the Sundown z12v2's with d1 coils in.... so this meant we could take two SK1500.1's and and run them bridged @ 1ohm (0.5 nominal per amp) Gains were set using the SMD DD-1, to ensure that there is no clipping. here's a good vid playing Gucci, moving quite a bit of air and being slightly loud with 148+ @30hz on the meter (I know it's hard to see in the vid) and here's the clamp of the power figures @ 148.4 we got 2930 watts of clean power from two amps with a rise to 2.5ohms and a drop to 11.6v.....this is also after about an hour of testing and playing music on drained batteries...... which is damn good, especially at this low a frequency Overall, the amps are great, very well built, sound extremely plesant and are stable below 1ohm Good job Skar Audio!
  7. Hey everyone, I know I've been here a while, reading topics, and joking around the random, and such, but since I've got some things done, I thought I might as well make a build log. 1st, here's my car Now, my equipment My tiny little amp, the MB Quart FX1.600 And my Kicker CVR12 that I got from a pawn shop for $60, it's alright. The JVC is something random, not gonna use it And this used to be my former setup before coolant destroyed the box. It sounded terrible anyways Now time for the good stuff: 1st off, here's a design I got from RAMDesigns, 2.3cu ft tuned to 33hz before displacement Some supplies Some red suede for box wrapping I got for free Everything all cut after the help of some friends, and a very kind carpenter, he even let me borrow his titebond premium
  8. I was wanting to find someone in the western Indiana eastern Illinois area who has a dd-1 or anyone who has other ways of setting the gain on an amp I can pay if someone has a dd-1 to set the amp. its set by ear right now I'm a little under half way though my build and before I go and finish the amp rack and false walls I was wanting to fine tune my amp. any and all help would be much appreciated
  9. Ok, so I have a Pioneer AVH#### head unit, and the volume it distorts at is 37. So when adjusting the gain on the JAD 1200.1 I can max out the gain on the amp and still get no distortion, but even when I have the gain all the way up and put the actual head unit into distortion above 37 I still get no distortion from the amplifier. I do notice that when adjusting the gains I hit tiny bits of distortion but it quickly goes away. Could there possibly be an issue somewhere with the amp? Has anyone had any similar issues? Note that I have 2 of these amps and I get similar results with both of them. I know it may be a slim chance both of them would have the same problems, but you never know.
  10. Another quick test of an Old School Alpine head unit...this time the CDA-9815. It's from around 2004, so not REAL old school, but still pretty old in terms of car audio gear. The 9815 has the internal V-Drive amp, claiming 60w x 4 output, we don't verify the output of the amplifier, we are just concerned with the pre-amp voltage output and THD. I test once with the internal amps ON, then once again with the internal amps OFF. Do you expect a big difference? Do you expect ANY difference? Watch the vid to find out... http://youtu.be/Fza-1zludTA (^^ for some reason my video link is not embedding as a video?)
  11. so im tired of having problems with gains and stuff not knowing if im clipping or not so my questions is should i invest in a dd-1 before i buy a second battery? is the dd-1 worth the money?
  12. Let's kick it old school with a 20yr old Kicker "monster" amp, the 500ss. This amp pre-dates the ZR1000 and was available in 1996 for an MSRP of $999 USD. The 500ss is rated to deliver: 250x2 @ 4 ohms (500x1 @ 8 ohms) 425x2 @ 2 ohms (850x1 @ 4 ohms) Let's take a look at this amp and see how it performs on the SMD/D'Amore Engineering AD-1 Amp Dyno. Thanks to my buddy John for lending me the amp to test. See it on YouTube in 1080P HD or embedded below:
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