775Tundra Posted October 8, 2013 Report Share Posted October 8, 2013 All to realize that the filler is going to shatter when you drop the bass. Lol 2003 Tahoe dc 7.5k dc level 5 15's (3) MMats 341's xs power batts lots of sky high cable dual alts(came off the sky-high gmc and don't know who made them) ipad in center console vu-din in center console all being ripped out and being sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted October 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2013 All to realize that the filler is going to shatter when you drop the bass. Lol LOL, Dude don't jinx it.... That would literally make me cry if that happened. I've already had to fix my sub-box from an unexpected crack. :fingers-crossed: This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted October 8, 2013 Report Share Posted October 8, 2013 If you're going to vinyl that panel, don't waste your time getting it perfect. The little pits won't even show. Now if you're thinking about painting it, that's a different story! Here's an idea..............just to throw it out there, what about flocking it!?!? On another note, you're killin me with that port. I was really thinking about moving away from it, and now you've brought me right back to the rear deck! I almost hate you again! Amazing how quickly it changes shape huh?! Keep at it buddy, I'm watching! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted October 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 If you're going to vinyl that panel, don't waste your time getting it perfect. The little pits won't even show. Now if you're thinking about painting it, that's a different story! Here's an idea..............just to throw it out there, what about flocking it!?!? On another note, you're killin me with that port. I was really thinking about moving away from it, and now you've brought me right back to the rear deck! I almost hate you again! Amazing how quickly it changes shape huh?! Keep at it buddy, I'm watching! Flocking, huh? Stay tuned, already might have something in the works. Yep, the more I think about it, the more I want to wrap the panel in vinyl. That would be the best look for it specifically, but I am just doubting that I'll be able to get those inner corners to work out. We'll see. Thinking about porting your rear deck? Get on it..! Its no small job though. All the metal cutting, wood fab, body filler applications and sanding, then upcoming paint, and more sanding. Yikes I am getting excited at the finished product though! Should really help improve the sound (at least I'm hoping, especially for all this work). If nothing else, my trunk rattle should be eliminated which would be a nice benefit in itself. This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 That's been the plan all along really. I was just admiring how you did yours. The step downs and filling it was great! I really just need to get on it. Tired of thinking about it and having no time to do it. I was holding off to do the actuator like you did, and that was going to cause me to re configure the enclosure because I was using the whole width between the wells. I still want to do the actuator, but money isn't here now. So It's going to be a while before I'm able to do that. So I may just say eff it and plan it for a rebuild down the line. Not to thread jack, but I was thinking of glassing the sides and then attaching wood bottom and top. Glass the whole thing, then make the front and back baffles interchangeable. If i do it that way, I'm thinking I can later do a cutout for the actuator, and then box it in and glass it from the inside of the enclosure. That way it's all sealed up and I only take minimal away from the air space. Not sure if you get what I mean, but it makes sense to me. LOL. PM me if you want to know more, or need me to explain it better. I've been thinking about it for about 3 months now, so I can explain it step by step if you want. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted October 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 That's been the plan all along really. I was just admiring how you did yours. The step downs and filling it was great! I really just need to get on it. Tired of thinking about it and having no time to do it. I was holding off to do the actuator like you did, and that was going to cause me to re configure the enclosure because I was using the whole width between the wells. I still want to do the actuator, but money isn't here now. So It's going to be a while before I'm able to do that. So I may just say eff it and plan it for a rebuild down the line. Not to thread jack, but I was thinking of glassing the sides and then attaching wood bottom and top. Glass the whole thing, then make the front and back baffles interchangeable. If i do it that way, I'm thinking I can later do a cutout for the actuator, and then box it in and glass it from the inside of the enclosure. That way it's all sealed up and I only take minimal away from the air space. Not sure if you get what I mean, but it makes sense to me. LOL. PM me if you want to know more, or need me to explain it better. I've been thinking about it for about 3 months now, so I can explain it step by step if you want. Thanks. I wasn't sure how the step-down pieces would work but it came out decent. Pain in the ass to line all those up just right, not gonna lie, had to redo a few of those pieces You could probably do it a hundred other ways that might be easier or whatever but I spent enough time thinking it over and over so I just wanted to jump into it and see how it went. So interchangeable front and rear parts of the sub-box? That's not a bad idea if you can make it work. Much easier then tearing the whole box out to redo just part of it. So you're wanting to basically install the actuator inside the sub-box later down the road? Yeah as long as everything's sealed, I don't see why not. Its hard to design in all this stuff in a trunk build so you have to get creative. Can't wait to see what you cook up in the future! This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Yeah pretty much. . So the wall would be there now, all glass. Then when I'm ready for the actuator, I can glass in a bolt or something to the existing wall. Then the actuator would attach to it. Then I can either take some cardboard or something like that, and make a surround for it. Glass over the top of it and onto the wall and floor. Then it would just be a matter of closing in the one end, and then sealing it to the baffle. So sounds like you get what I'm saying. yeah i'm going to get back on it here soon. I think all the craziness is just about over. Just in time for the holidays too! SMH!! Never ends! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wood Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Are you trying to vinyl the rear deck lid? (scooter sent me here haha) I run a vinyl wrap business Part time, to school and my full time job so I may have a couple pointers for ya!!! As far as the pits, you would want to get them as smooth as possible because they will show thru the vinyl... if you run into wrinkles and creases, lift it and heat it with a heat gun (dont apply to much heat because it will deform and/ or melt) then reapply it! if theres any more questions you need in regards to vinyl wrapping just ask me here or pm me! Tuned in -Wood 2011 Nissan Altima aka Red Ruby HEADUNIT: Pioneer AVH X2700BS ELECTRICAL: -Singer 230a -Northstar gr34 -(2) Northstar SMS220 w/ Custom Terminals from 12V Metalworkz -100% Welding Cable FRONT STAGE:-(2 Sets) Hertz HSK165 -Hertz HSK130 -Ampere Audio 125.4 SUB STAGE: -(3) Sundown Audio SA REV2 12's -Ampere Audio 3800.1 V2 MISC (NON AUDIO RELATED): -Interior & Exterior Lights LED -Gloss Black Roof (PAINTED) -15% Front, 5% Rear Tint -Roof Spoiler -20" TSW Snettertons (20x8.5 front, 20x10 rear) -Custom Projector Retrofit (FX-R 3.0, 6.5k HID, Morimoto Mini H1 (faux projector), Quad Starry Night Halos) ----- COMING SOON!! -Aftermarket Fog Lights -Custom Painted Engine Covers My Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169869-woods-2011-altima-aka-red-ruby-new-video-more-updates/page-109 Retrofit Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/185787-hid-projector-retrofitting-diy-by-wood/#entry2765346 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wood Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 One more thing... the surface needs to at least be primered in ordered for it to stick properly! Just take your time, and make sure you squeege every inch of the surface so it leaves no pockets for air bubbles, Also start from the middle and work outwards! 2011 Nissan Altima aka Red Ruby HEADUNIT: Pioneer AVH X2700BS ELECTRICAL: -Singer 230a -Northstar gr34 -(2) Northstar SMS220 w/ Custom Terminals from 12V Metalworkz -100% Welding Cable FRONT STAGE:-(2 Sets) Hertz HSK165 -Hertz HSK130 -Ampere Audio 125.4 SUB STAGE: -(3) Sundown Audio SA REV2 12's -Ampere Audio 3800.1 V2 MISC (NON AUDIO RELATED): -Interior & Exterior Lights LED -Gloss Black Roof (PAINTED) -15% Front, 5% Rear Tint -Roof Spoiler -20" TSW Snettertons (20x8.5 front, 20x10 rear) -Custom Projector Retrofit (FX-R 3.0, 6.5k HID, Morimoto Mini H1 (faux projector), Quad Starry Night Halos) ----- COMING SOON!! -Aftermarket Fog Lights -Custom Painted Engine Covers My Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169869-woods-2011-altima-aka-red-ruby-new-video-more-updates/page-109 Retrofit Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/185787-hid-projector-retrofitting-diy-by-wood/#entry2765346 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Thanks Wood! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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