AI James Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 so is wiring but we still ziptie those. why do that if you cant see it also dont use adapters like those plastic crap ones. you need sopmethign rigid that the sound doesnt resonate. also that much deadener on that door is pretty much not doing much of anything lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 or you can always by an adapter http://www.ebay.com/...c#ht_770wt_1163 The problem with those is that they're made for bitch speakers...(the holes are really small) and if you try to widen it up you'll crack it. I tried that first lol.... prefferably cleaner cuts as well Meh, it's behind the door. the magnet cant be bigger than the speaker. then you would need a bigger hole that you wouldnt be able to screw the speaker Quote my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aN-i-No Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 so is wiring but we still ziptie those. why do that if you cant see it also dont use adapters like those plastic crap ones. you need sopmethign rigid that the sound doesnt resonate. also that much deadener on that door is pretty much not doing much of anything lol Not my pics haha, I probably should've made that clear. The deadener is fine, he applied it to the flat surfaces because the curved areas are already resistant to vibrations. You could always shoot for 100% (or near 100%) coverage but it doesn't do you much good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aN-i-No Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 or you can always by an adapter http://www.ebay.com/...c#ht_770wt_1163 The problem with those is that they're made for bitch speakers...(the holes are really small) and if you try to widen it up you'll crack it. I tried that first lol.... prefferably cleaner cuts as well Meh, it's behind the door. the magnet cant be bigger than the speaker. then you would need a bigger hole that you wouldnt be able to screw the speaker No, the basket of the speaker won't fit in the hole and when you try to widen it, it just cracks. I can take a pic if you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go-N-Def Posted May 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 going with the wood ,gonna put in some work Quote Yo dog i heard you like boxes. so i put a box inside a box so you can bass while you FAIL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AI James Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 so is wiring but we still ziptie those. why do that if you cant see it also dont use adapters like those plastic crap ones. you need sopmethign rigid that the sound doesnt resonate. also that much deadener on that door is pretty much not doing much of anything lol Not my pics haha, I probably should've made that clear. The deadener is fine, he applied it to the flat surfaces because the curved areas are already resistant to vibrations. You could always shoot for 100% (or near 100%) coverage but it doesn't do you much good. most of those places are a waste of deadener and time. . sealing off the door is where its at, and concentrating behind the driver and around it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aN-i-No Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 (edited) so is wiring but we still ziptie those. why do that if you cant see it also dont use adapters like those plastic crap ones. you need sopmethign rigid that the sound doesnt resonate. also that much deadener on that door is pretty much not doing much of anything lol Not my pics haha, I probably should've made that clear. The deadener is fine, he applied it to the flat surfaces because the curved areas are already resistant to vibrations. You could always shoot for 100% (or near 100%) coverage but it doesn't do you much good. most of those places are a waste of deadener and time. . sealing off the door is where its at, and concentrating behind the driver and around it. Hmmm...I see what you mean now. I wouldn't want to seal a door with deadener (not to say that that's what you meant, you seem pretty smart lol) because you'd have hell if something went wrong inside the door. But hey you gotta start somewhere right? EDIT: Separating the front waves from back waves will net you the greatest improvement in sound. I'm sure you know that but I'm agreeing. Edited May 8, 2012 by aN-i-No Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AI James Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 sealed with wood btw. and easy to get back into. yes my picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Second Skin Rep Jon Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 For SQ, I always suggest using MLV to seal the door instead of sound deadener. MLV provides a more acoustically sound plane to mount the speaker to and because of the density/mass of the material, the sound (both front and rear projected waves) are unlikely to mix. This is how you are able to achieve really awesome sound quality while also blocking some of the pesky unwanted noise from the outside environment. I agree, use MDF or plywood for the baffle. The plastic ones aren't so good... lol Quote Have a question about Second Skin? E-Mail me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AI James Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 that pics step one, the other stuff gets layed on top of the deadener normally, between the door and door panel. some get it inside as well but others dont obviously. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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