sprkn_ranger Posted May 13, 2012 Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 Just make the front where the port is removable so you can experiment with different sized ports. Check out my build log! 4 Havocs in a blowthrough http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/187506-sprkn-rangers-blowthrough-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEEMDUB Posted May 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 Just make the front where the port is removable so you can experiment with different sized ports. Ok how do you suggest fastening the port then so that it can be removeable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprkn_ranger Posted May 13, 2012 Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 Kinda hard to explain without pictures, but I'll give it a shot lol: Build the box like normal, then make the front where the port is going to go a double baffle. The inside piece is going to have a hole large enough to let you get in and access the subs, and the outer piece is going to have a larger hole so it creates a lip to mount your removable ports. This lip is where you are going to put the barbed insert nuts. Next you can build whatever sized ports you want to experiment with an around the outside of the port you will have another lip that fits the hole of the outer baffle and you will have holes drilled in it where the insert nuts are so you can bolt the port to the box. Hope this made sense Check out my build log! 4 Havocs in a blowthrough http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/187506-sprkn-rangers-blowthrough-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEEMDUB Posted May 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 Kinda hard to explain without pictures, but I'll give it a shot lol: Build the box like normal, then make the front where the port is going to go a double baffle. The inside piece is going to have a hole large enough to let you get in and access the subs, and the outer piece is going to have a larger hole so it creates a lip to mount your removable ports. This lip is where you are going to put the barbed insert nuts. Next you can build whatever sized ports you want to experiment with an around the outside of the port you will have another lip that fits the hole of the outer baffle and you will have holes drilled in it where the insert nuts are so you can bolt the port to the box. Hope this made sense ha took a hard minute of concentration put I think I get what your saying do you mean kinda like the port would have a "frame" type piece around it and would fit into the lip made by the double baffle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprkn_ranger Posted May 13, 2012 Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 Yea, think of the way a sub in a flush mount baffle sits. It's kinda the same thing. I'll see if I can find a picture of what I'm talking about. Check out my build log! 4 Havocs in a blowthrough http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/187506-sprkn-rangers-blowthrough-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprkn_ranger Posted May 13, 2012 Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 Here is a pic of what your baffle should look like: I couldnt find a picture of a removable port but I think you will get the idea. Check out my build log! 4 Havocs in a blowthrough http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/187506-sprkn-rangers-blowthrough-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john253a Posted May 13, 2012 Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 Ive seen it done like pic then plexiglas is fitted, so it serves two purpose, The way I said you put your hand through the port, to access the bolts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
412 CVX Posted May 13, 2012 Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 oh dear... this seems like it's getting more complicated than it should be. what i've noticed with 4th orders, is that a lot of port area is usually a good thing. make the port a completely separate piece from the rest of the box. here's a little pic of my friend's 4th order. the whole front face with the port attached is removable. there's about 2 inches of overhang on each side to attach it to the box Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs. My temp system build log More box buildssome cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches! I'm with captain stupid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEEMDUB Posted May 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2012 oh dear... this seems like it's getting more complicated than it should be. what i've noticed with 4th orders, is that a lot of port area is usually a good thing. make the port a completely separate piece from the rest of the box. here's a little pic of my friend's 4th order. the whole front face with the port attached is removable. there's about 2 inches of overhang on each side to attach it to the box ok so basically in this instance instead of making the lip that smaller square that is centered with the port attached to it just overlaps the front baffle? also how did he screw it in that it wont strip out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
412 CVX Posted May 14, 2012 Report Share Posted May 14, 2012 he just used screws, but bolts would work a little better Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs. My temp system build log More box buildssome cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches! I'm with captain stupid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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