Cardboardcat15 Posted May 16, 2012 Report Share Posted May 16, 2012 Since I'm a fucking idiot who always overlooks things, I've accidentally set a recon in to dry without even glancing art the Lead wires and if they were lined up. Is there any way I can extend the tinsel leads and/or modify the push terminals so that these leads can reach and still move freely with the woofer? I'm such an idiot lol Quote My Channel on YouTube. Check it out for cinematic-style Car Audio videos. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCcSMhtT-rpopJbdybubDgnQ New 2014 Scion TC 4th Wall Build https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/217173-2014-tc-4th-order-build-3-fi-sp4-15s/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basshead8569 Posted May 16, 2012 Report Share Posted May 16, 2012 No way to extend. Unless Im wrong ya screwed. Those are placed and coated a specific way. Unless it is not fully dried and ya can take apart to re align there is no way. Quote Current system (still building) 2 kicker 12" dcvr in factory kicker ported box, Rockford Fosgate 1200.1 Amp, Kenwood ddx-470 ddin radio, Rockford Fosgate 0 Gauge wiring, Rockford Fosgate punch 6X8 2 way speakers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkgp_03 Posted May 16, 2012 Report Share Posted May 16, 2012 To be honest with you, knowing myself I would have done the same thing. Quote Clip city bitch, clip clip city bitch. 10's, 12's, 15's, goin up in flames bitch. TaylorFade, on 02 Jul 2013 - 9:38 PM, said: Go back to that place, ask to speak to that dude again, look him dead in the eye and then.... pop him in the snot box. Tell him T-Fade sent you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted May 16, 2012 Report Share Posted May 16, 2012 That seems really short for tinsel leads, not sure if its the pic or what but the leads should extend over the outer lip of the spider landing. You have 3 ways to fix this. 1.) Get the push terminals and get a metal tab that is fairly thick and wont bend easily and extend the tab over to the tinsel leads on your recone kit. Solder the wire to the tab and put some shrink wrap over the tab to help prevent the two terminals from shorting out (note: do NOT put shrink wrap over the whole tinsel lead, just where the solder joint and metal tab extending from the spring loaded terminal) 2.) Get some 12 gauge (thats what it looks like your tinsel lead wire is but double check) and solder that onto the tinsel lead end with some 60/40 rosin core solder. I strongly recommend you use solder flux with this to help make a strong connection. Then you can take the newly extended lead and solder it to the terminal and put some shrink wrap over the extended lead portion to protect it from shorting out. 3.) Get some heavy duty (depends on the power rating of your sub, 10 or 8 gauge wire is normally used) and make direct leads. If you can for where the current tinsel leads rest at drill a hole into the lip outside where the spider landing is and make it big enough to just slightly fit the power wire you want to use as the direct leads for your sub in with very little gap between the outer jacket of the wire and the basket itself. Then flux the wire and tinsel and solder it together. Place shrink wrap over the joint you soldered and then push the wire up through the holes you drilled just a bit to give the tinsel leads slack when the sub starts to move. Then take some CA glue and put that around the area where the outer jacket of the direct lead is and the basket and give it a shot of accelerator. Those are pretty much your only options. Dont do the direct leads by just soldering them onto the tinsel leads because if you do that you will guaranteed short the leads out if not rip the leads from the subwoofer itself because of the tension it will encounter. Quote 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cardboardcat15 Posted May 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2012 That seems really short for tinsel leads, not sure if its the pic or what but the leads should extend over the outer lip of the spider landing. You have 3 ways to fix this. 1.) Get the push terminals and get a metal tab that is fairly thick and wont bend easily and extend the tab over to the tinsel leads on your recone kit. Solder the wire to the tab and put some shrink wrap over the tab to help prevent the two terminals from shorting out (note: do NOT put shrink wrap over the whole tinsel lead, just where the solder joint and metal tab extending from the spring loaded terminal) 2.) Get some 12 gauge (thats what it looks like your tinsel lead wire is but double check) and solder that onto the tinsel lead end with some 60/40 rosin core solder. I strongly recommend you use solder flux with this to help make a strong connection. Then you can take the newly extended lead and solder it to the terminal and put some shrink wrap over the extended lead portion to protect it from shorting out. 3.) Get some heavy duty (depends on the power rating of your sub, 10 or 8 gauge wire is normally used) and make direct leads. If you can for where the current tinsel leads rest at drill a hole into the lip outside where the spider landing is and make it big enough to just slightly fit the power wire you want to use as the direct leads for your sub in with very little gap between the outer jacket of the wire and the basket itself. Then flux the wire and tinsel and solder it together. Place shrink wrap over the joint you soldered and then push the wire up through the holes you drilled just a bit to give the tinsel leads slack when the sub starts to move. Then take some CA glue and put that around the area where the outer jacket of the direct lead is and the basket and give it a shot of accelerator. Those are pretty much your only options. Dont do the direct leads by just soldering them onto the tinsel leads because if you do that you will guaranteed short the leads out if not rip the leads from the subwoofer itself because of the tension it will encounter. Thanks for the in depth reply man! I was actually thinking of doing something like #1, seemed practical and easiest. Quote My Channel on YouTube. Check it out for cinematic-style Car Audio videos. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCcSMhtT-rpopJbdybubDgnQ New 2014 Scion TC 4th Wall Build https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/217173-2014-tc-4th-order-build-3-fi-sp4-15s/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted May 17, 2012 Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 Id go with direct leads if i was in your position but #1 is easiest. Let me know how it turns out Quote 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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