Which Brakes?

[Parentnoia]

the guys at oreillys should get you out the door the first time with everything you need.

I'm trying to avoid buying everything they try to sell me, cause I dont want to spend more than needed. I want to walk in knowing exactly what I need to walk out with.

[Dman1320]

i normally just do the mid level ceramics. dont squeak like as budget pads ive had on my trucks, not overpriced, and dont leave too much dust on the chrome wheels.

[Parentnoia]

Alright guys, heading out. Gonna come home with brake pads (of some sort), a thing of brake grease, and a thing of anti-seize. Wish me luck tomorrow for when I change the brakes.

[gaitan1977]

don't sweat it bro. use jack stands if you can be careful.

[poorfish88]

Well I'm hoping that changing the brakes will stop the squealing, but if it was just the brakes, wouldnt I only hear the squealing when I brake, not anytime I'm coasting?

And another issue I'm having is that the truck jerks to the right from time to time. It started with just the steering wheel doing it without the whole truck jerking, now you can feel the truck jolt to one side and the steering wheel doesnt jerk as far as it did before. What would cause that?

I'd repack the wheel bearing while change the brakes, cause the sqealing could be coming from them. Might as well, it only takes a couple minutes. I soak em in gas to clean them up, then pack em with grease.

[Parentnoia]

Well, i didnt get to pick up anything. I thought that oreillys was open until midnight but they closed at 10. I'll just them early in the morning.

[audiofanaticz]

Anytime I do brakes (for my vehicles, my parents, or even friends) I always go with ceramic pads, usually the ones priced in the 50-70 dollar range per pair depending on vehicle.

As someone said before they are virtually brake dust free, so if you have a polished aluminum rim or chrome rims it keeps the rims looking clean and not all dirty looking.

Ceramics stop better! You may not notice to much of a difference but you will stop in a shorter distance. Other things such as how hard the calipers squeeze the pads, and rotors will also be variables to stopping distance.

Ceramics also work better under hotter conditions, so if you went from 100mph and braked very hard (but not hard enough to lock up the wheels) normal brakes would get hot, and lose their stopping ability, where ceramics would keep stopping the vehicle.

Ceramics are often times more expensive, but hell Id never buy some cheap 19$ pads anyways for a vehicle id be driving.

You wont have to change ceramic pads as soon as normal pads, but this can also vary dependent of your driving habits.

2 cons for ceramics is they cost a little more than normal pads 10-20$ in most cases, the other con is they eat up your routers faster due them being a stronger mixture of compounds making them ceramics.

More than likley you wouldnt notice the shorter rotor life if you bought new rotors and got the decent ones. Rotor are normally cheap.

I think I did front brakes in my tahoe it was around 184$ using duralast gold ceramics, duralast gold rotors, and i forget the brand calipers i swapped out.

[mbdblue]

x2 for ceramics....I used to always go with Bendix till they got bought out. Now I use Centric Premium rotors and pads.

[Parentnoia]

Well, the brakes got changed. Took all day because of having to take several trips to OReillys to buy stuff that my grandfather saw the need to do. Brakes didnt even get done correctly... no anti-seize, no brake grease, the bearings are tightened further than they were to begin with it, the brakes dont even any better stopping power, and it sounds like the brakes are constantly in contact with the rotor (you can free spin the wheel and HEAR the brake pad grinding). I hate it when I ask someone to help with something I know how to do and they make the decisions as to what to do and not do.

Flooring the brake doing 30MPH doesnt even lock up the brakes. I just kinda coasted to a stop...

[poorfish88]

Well, the brakes got changed. Took all day because of having to take several trips to OReillys to buy stuff that my grandfather saw the need to do. Brakes didnt even get done correctly... no anti-seize, no brake grease, the bearings are tightened further than they were to begin with it, the brakes dont even any better stopping power, and it sounds like the brakes are constantly in contact with the rotor (you can free spin the wheel and HEAR the brake pad grinding). I hate it when I ask someone to help with something I know how to do and they make the decisions as to what to do and not do.

Flooring the brake doing 30MPH doesnt even lock up the brakes. I just kinda coasted to a stop...

Spin the rotor while tighten the castle nut on the hub until tight. Then back off about a 1/4 turn next install the cotter pin. You don't want the bearing to be too tight or they will bind up and not spin freely. It sounds like you need to bleed the brakes, or your brake fluid is contaminated. My bet is there is air in the lines that's why you have no braking power.