copper nuts and bolts

[Mtnbikecrazy55]

Oh and fyi- flange bolts have a really weird head on them and a fine thread. Finding copper nuts that would matte with the flange bolts may be tricky.

Just tryna give you a heads up

[AMI CUSTOMS]

Save yourself some time and just go to mcmaster Carr.com and get exactly what you need great prices and will be there in 2 business days.

[purplesyrup]

Save yourself some time and just go to mcmaster Carr.com and get exactly what you need great prices and will be there in 2 business days.

sounds good to me

[snafu]

Is there a benefit to using one bolt over another? Here would be the simplest way to determine this:

Install bolts (one for positive, one for negative) in a piece of wood that is the same thickness as the enclosure

Wire amp to bolts and bolts to subs with ring terminals as you would normally

Grab TWO quality DMMs, each with a MIN/MAX scale and set both to measure AC Voltage

METER 1 - Put the red probe on one side of either bolt (at the point the rings contact it), the black probe on the other

METER 2 - Put the probes on the speaker outputs of the amplifier (be sure to set the range to it's maximum setting)

Crank the system, then enter the MIN/MAX mode on both meters to record voltage over time

Play the system at near maximum output for at least 30 seconds on bass heavy material

End the MIN/MAX recording session and then reduce volume accordingly

Note the MAXimum voltage each meter recorded over this period of time:

- METER 1 shows the voltage drop across each bolt

- METER 2 shows the maximum voltage the amplifier made

Voltage recorded via METER 1 *2 / Voltage recorded via METER 2 = %age of voltage drop across the bolts

Repeat for as many different kinds of bolts as you like and log the data.

Is this meaningful? My hunch would be to say NO, but why not find out for sure? Guys, isn't it time we all stop guessing at this kind of stuff when it's SO easy to know the answer with certainty?

[HunterJohnson]

its bc of lazinessssss

i use aluminum bolts on all of my boxes

[purplesyrup]

I went to the suggested website, no copper bolts,

This whole mission has been a total fail, I have only found 2 copper bolt listings, both on ebay, and they are not long enough.

I never knew it would be so hard to get copper bolts. They had copper washers for $1.20 each, so 6 times the price of a standard washer. if the bolts were 6 times the price they would be about $5 each, nuts around $3 each (educated guess)

So, 1 bolt, 4 washers and a nut, $13 per wire, need 4, $52 for an efficient power transfer with e clean look for a quick ohm load change.

Pretty pricey but copper is high now.

Everytime I search copper bolts online, it pulls up all these sites only showing brass,

Bingo, just thought of something............

[AMI CUSTOMS]

Use brass

[purplesyrup]

1/2" square copper rod, have it cut into 2" pieces, drill 1/4" holes for the 8ga copper wire ends, bolt it together, also have to figure out how to secure these to the box.

Closest thiing I can think of,

http://store.electri...loy-c11000.html

or the rod

http://store.electrical-insulators-and-copper-ground-bars.com/copper-rod--250.html

[AA98hoe]

Just hard wire it bring 4 wires for each sub outside the box and do all connections there.. what amp subs and ohm load do u plan on changing too.. I will never run at high ohm load..there's just no output..

[purplesyrup]

D2 VC, bridged @1ohm, then a coil on each channel, 2 ohm on each channel, then, i will getting a different amp, then possibly adding another, I dont want to mess with twisting wires together, I want the install to be as clean as possible, and once the sub is mounted, dont want to have to pull it back out