Bibby's Civic On Air Build Thread

[bibby>Chode]

I locked the other thread, b/c it started out as me gathering info, and then once it turned into a project, i kept updating it until now. Now i have an actual build thread.

You guys saw the trunk floor built in that thread, and all the parts. Basically everything but the bags being installed. So this is it. Anyone looking to bag there civic (addiction2bass) i hope this provides some info for ya. Between steve's rebuild thread, my info thread, and this, i did it, anyone else should be able to as well.

This is the front cylinders. I had to fab up a bottom bracket b/c the ones i bought didnt fit.

I bought some 1" pipe collars. They started out like this.

Then got grinded smooth except for the top lip. Then a nut was welded on the top for the cylinder to screw into. My Father-in-law welded/grinded it up for me. I got the idea from Steve's rebuild thread. I just used a different peice to build from. This is what it looks like installed.

this is the top brackets i have been talking about. I can take the top layer of metal, and the pad out, and be about 3/4" lower at all 4 corners. I am going to do this atelast on the rear when i fix my leaks.

Air hose coming out of the cylinder on the pass side.

Then into the valves.

Same thing on the driver's side.

Then into the valves.

[bibby>Chode]

With that done, i went ahead and ran the lines to the front of the car so the front would be done. I have 90's coming out of the tank, then down into the floor, and routed to the front. This floor will be covered in black carpet soon.

Drilling this out with the shop-vac on it to keep the dust to a minimum, and out of my tank.

All 4 holes drilled. Note, the fittings arent tightened down yet.

Boy o boy, this was a task.

Lines come out through a gromet under the battery holder.

Then routed to the valves

This one is behind the air intake

[bibby>Chode]

alright. Now, for the rear. The reason i cant go lower in the rear is the stud from the cylinder sticks down too low. I'm thinking i can use some washers to raise that a little, so i can drop it to the upper hole.

Drivers side. Yes, i know the colors dont match, and it really bothers me. No, i dont want to talk about it!

REar valve mounting location.

This is what the tank looks like.

Engine bay shot.

Here are the daytime pics i forgot to show.

I have more of the solenoid/compressor mount, but idk where the camera is. I'll get them up later. If you have any questions, ask away!

[bibby>Chode]

Here is the video. I'll have a new one up soon.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=JnYFkWuAjKk

[meade916]

looks pimp!

what is that on top of the rear cylander between the strut tower and the top of the can? Looks about an inch thick.

also, on the front, it looks like you have a lot of threads showing where it goes into the pipe collar......can you go in further and get more of a drop out of it?

edit: i just went and looked at mine and i dont have that nut on top of the bottom bracket (rear).....mine is threaded directly into the bracket with no nut on top or bottom. There is another inch of drop right there too.....

[AI James]

lol s that your wife slappin switches?

[addiction2bass]

looks sweet... tho might i sugest alittle.....

for your rear MDF hinges.... trace them out with them as they are screwed down... then remove the hinges and then route out some of the MDF out and screw them back down so now they are flush.... that way when you carpet over all the panels you can do so with one piece of carpet for a realy smooth look just experiment alittle with the hinges and you should be able to get them flush and still be able to pull that panel up.

looks great...

i see how ya have the front fabed up alittle, tho top mounts are kinda hard to see...

my used cylinders came with some brackets...

they look like this...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/add...caircans-05.jpg

id have to measure the bolt holes... but looks like i could just ditch that top mounting plate and put some hardened bolts thru them to bolt them to the car with some washers ontop and the rubber spacers.

also does your hood clear fine with those lines just sticking up from the top air lines? i thought you might need some 90degree adaptors to keep it low profile. only downfall is i know the more joints you have the more possibilities for leaks...

also do the valves have to be so close to the cans? the way i thought if you have the valves near the tank then the more air going thru the lines woulve give you more cusion... tho i know it would use more air to fill on the lines so it might be alittle slower to react. im just trying to figure it all out myself....

thanks for the build pictures....

i know when i get mine started piecing it together alot more ill definatly have mine hooked up to my shop air compressor when i start to play with them.LOL

[meade916]

its better to put the valves by the cans......he did it right. Also its almost impossible to get a 90 degree angle fitting in that spot......a 45 is also fairly hard so you sorta have to do it like that. You might get a 45 if your lucky, its not IMPOSSIBLE but it is a pain. Trust me on that

[addiction2bass]

OK... but the hood closes fine without forcing the air lines....

or maybe its just the way the lines look shiny they look to be very hard and stiff... im not sure how flexible they realy are..

this will be a HUGE learning experience for me... ive always wanted air suspension when i had my truck but thats REALY expensive to do right...

but on this civic its doable...

here is more pictures of my cans that i have... does that look something like yours?

to me it kinda looks like it was two sets of rubber spacer/bushings. i wonder if they are both needed.... or maybe the top rubber goes abovefrom the top... not sure...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/add...ns/DSC00030.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/add...ns/DSC00032.jpg

but the rears only have the one set of rubbers that look like they go on from the bottom...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/add...ns/DSC00035.jpg

but the fronts at least LOOK like you could either remove middle spacers or at least cut them in half and just put a few tack welds on the anchor bolt from the bottom so its firm on that metal spacer...

i mean hey... 1/8th or 1/4 or even a 1/2inch lower.... IS LOWER

only downfall will be having to customize some front inner linners, i just bought some new inner splash shields for this civic.LOL the wind noise from not having them SUCKS! LOL

and only good thing is im still riding on steelies on it cause i dont want wider tires on it so i can tuck beter, smoother ride and less likely to bend the rim. tho i am looking for some SI rims to use. or some kinda factory rim that looks nice to run on....

[addiction2bass]

o ya and with the 90degree adaptor i know youll have to extend the air in line to clear the strut tower.

i know you could do that with some simple couplings and such...