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I skimped on the 0 gauge


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I bought some cheap CCA 0 gauge off ebay and I'm kinda regretting it already. My original plan was to do the big 3 and then have both a positive and a negative run from my battery up front to the amp in the trunk. Would I be better off doing that, or just doing two positive runs and then grounding to the chassis in back? Buying better 0 gauge isnt an option, unfortunately.

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How many amps of current draw are you expecting

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

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(not an expert lol cuz i havent had time to try it yet personally) but ive heard that grounding to ur battery is the best ground u can get...but if that's wrong, somebody please correct me?

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Then you will be fine

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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Do your big three one run positive and negative and you will be fine up to about 250 amps on cca

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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(not an expert lol cuz i havent had time to try it yet personally) but ive heard that grounding to ur battery is the best ground u can get...but if that's wrong, somebody please correct me?

Yes the neg terminal on the batt is the best ground you can get. :good:

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me to , i am looking at going with 0 g and i have been looking at everything there is out there , thinking a rf's 0 gauge amp kit is the best value for getting going on 0 g

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