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spl build need help w/ running electrical


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okay guys i am working on 2 15" hdc3s and an saz3000d maybe two in the future. in my 98 bravada. i just bought 2 hc 1800s for the build. i will most likely be getting a h/o alt too. im not really sure what my stock one is rated at but right now when running it only charges at 13.9. (stock) no amps or any kind of system in. how would i get it to charge at 14.4 like normal? anyways my plan is to do big 3, 2 runs of knu 1/0 from the front batt to the kinetiks. the batt terminals i have have two 1/0 outputs but i need 3 ultimately running from the (pos) 1 for the alt charge, and the two that will run back. i looked into a fused distribution block and all of them seem to have the 1/0 inputs but go down on the outputs. for ex. 3 1/0 inputs. 1 1/0 output and two 4 gauge outputs. what would u guys recommend i do about the power distribution? bc right now its looking like i need to have something made for my setup. i would run normal inline fuses but im going to need more than two and i dnt want to have alot of fuse holders clustered up under the hood. ik 3 is not alot but i just want a uniform and clean way of running my power. and one more thing will i need to fuse the runs in the back right before they go to the batteries? thank you guys for any advice.

1995 Integra GSR (DB8)

Pioneer 3200-DVD

6.5 rockford fosgate 2-way fronts

6.5 rockford fosgate 3-way rear

saz-3000D

(2) 12" SA-12s

mwspllogo.jpg

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So far you have a really great starting idea to what you are doing. Everything is pretty good. I would suggest to distribute power to your amps, have the 2 1/0 runs going to the rear battery, just get a battery terminal and run how every many runs from the pos/neg to how ever many amps you get. Also, fuse all these power wires. The wire from alt+ to batt+, +wire to back right after front battery, and right before back battery. If the amplifiers have some time of built in or external fusing, you shouldn't have to fuse the wires to the amps from the back batt as long as it doesn't get really long. If you still want to be super precocious or your wire is to long, fuse the wire to the wire specifications. If your amp doesn't have fusing, fuse the + wire from the back batt to amps to the amps rated fusing. I did the big 3, I have 2 fuse holders under the hood one for the single run of + to the back, and another for the + from batt to alternator. If you want to check my build log, I have the big 3 upgrade on my pages 3/4. Along with me, i rested at 13.7-13.8 before, after big 3 i rest at 14.5 on a 75 degree day

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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Thanks alot man thats pretty close to what i had visualized.

1995 Integra GSR (DB8)

Pioneer 3200-DVD

6.5 rockford fosgate 2-way fronts

6.5 rockford fosgate 3-way rear

saz-3000D

(2) 12" SA-12s

mwspllogo.jpg

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