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Dead car?!? what could it be?


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I burnt out my stock alt with that exact amp. That thing's a power hog.

1998 Ford Contour

Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-P8400BH

Front/Rear Door Speakers: Alpine SPR-68 (Type-R 6x8)

Door Speaker Amplifer: Kicker ZX650.4

Subwoofers: 1 SSA Icon 12"

Amplifier: MB.Quart 1.1500d

Second Battery: XS Power D925

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alright. ill just do some digging to see how i can dig this thing out.

btw do you know if the newer Camry like the 07 model, could fit and operate in my 2002?

they both have the serpintine belt.

If you mean the alternator then possibly, it's not so much the belt that is important as it is the mounting points. Check online and see, but the donor will need to come from a vehicle with the same engine most likely. Take a look at a service manual to figure out how to remove the alternator but it's usually pretty simple.

1. Loosen belt tensioner and remove the belt from the alternators pulley.

2. Disconnect the ground cable, and then positive cable from the battery.

3. Disconnect the charge lead from the bolt on the back of the alternator, slide the boot on the cable back if there is one to reveal the bolt.

4. Disconnect all other cables attached to the alternator if there are any.

5. Remove any bolt or screw securing the alternator.

6. Lift that baby out.

Save all removed parts and reinstall them in the opposite order you removed them, but don't connect the battery cables again until you're done with everything else. It is not really necessary to disconnect the positive wire from your battery after the ground is free but if you like to be overly cautious like me you can.

yeah i watched a video on a previous generation camry.

problem is idk where the tensioner is on my 5th gen camry. ill do more digging for that.

and when it comes to car electrical, im pretty damn cautious myself

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its the alt, period lol, i think those amps are current hogs, but i could be wrong, how on 1k you fried you alt idk lol

He hasn't done the big 3, which would likely be the culprit because of all the extra resistance due to the dinky factory charge lead/grounds. Usually that just smokes the cable, though, I could be wrong.

my friend actually fried his wiring. and he fixed it by hard wiring a 4AWG run from his alt to battery and runs fine now.

so i tried the same thing, 0AWG(wire for my Big 3) from the alternator to the Battery, same result as before: NOTHING.

so it's more than likely a raped alternator. i guess i should have expected even 1k to tear up a small 80amp alt.

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I burnt out my stock alt with that exact amp. That thing's a power hog.

Power hog? i never really knew what that meant, so i know it draws in A LOT of power.

but does that mean it's not a very efficient amp? or is underrated?

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alright. ill just do some digging to see how i can dig this thing out.

btw do you know if the newer Camry like the 07 model, could fit and operate in my 2002?

they both have the serpintine belt.

If you mean the alternator then possibly, it's not so much the belt that is important as it is the mounting points. Check online and see, but the donor will need to come from a vehicle with the same engine most likely. Take a look at a service manual to figure out how to remove the alternator but it's usually pretty simple.

1. Loosen belt tensioner and remove the belt from the alternators pulley.

2. Disconnect the ground cable, and then positive cable from the battery.

3. Disconnect the charge lead from the bolt on the back of the alternator, slide the boot on the cable back if there is one to reveal the bolt.

4. Disconnect all other cables attached to the alternator if there are any.

5. Remove any bolt or screw securing the alternator.

6. Lift that baby out.

Save all removed parts and reinstall them in the opposite order you removed them, but don't connect the battery cables again until you're done with everything else. It is not really necessary to disconnect the positive wire from your battery after the ground is free but if you like to be overly cautious like me you can.

yeah i watched a video on a previous generation camry.

problem is idk where the tensioner is on my 5th gen camry. ill do more digging for that.

and when it comes to car electrical, im pretty damn cautious myself

its the alt, period lol, i think those amps are current hogs, but i could be wrong, how on 1k you fried you alt idk lol

He hasn't done the big 3, which would likely be the culprit because of all the extra resistance due to the dinky factory charge lead/grounds. Usually that just smokes the cable, though, I could be wrong.

my friend actually fried his wiring. and he fixed it by hard wiring a 4AWG run from his alt to battery and runs fine now.

so i tried the same thing, 0AWG(wire for my Big 3) from the alternator to the Battery, same result as before: NOTHING.

so it's more than likely a raped alternator. i guess i should have expected even 1k to tear up a small 80amp alt.

I burnt out my stock alt with that exact amp. That thing's a power hog.

Power hog? i never really knew what that meant, so i know it draws in A LOT of power.

but does that mean it's not a very efficient amp? or is underrated?

Probably a little of both, no amp is %100 efficient and knowing Alpine's MRP series is usually a little underrated that too. I guess that amp is just less efficient than most.

Also, if you're wiring isn't burnt, stinky, blackened, or completely severed you probably haven't fried it. I think you wrecked your alt for sure, that's about all it could be besides the computer but then you would just get a check engine light, most likely. Of course you could "what if" forever, I'd just rest easy and get the alt tested tomorrow or whenever you can. As far as running the 0 gauge between the alt and battery, that's part of the big 3 anyways. ;) One cable down, two to go. As far as finding the belt tensioner, look for a pulley on an arm. I will admit to you though, I have owned a few jap cars but haven't had the need to work on them besides regular maintenance ever so I don't know too much about them. I have an '03 Camry v6, I'll go take a peek under the hood right now.

I'm gonna hate

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OK, she's there, but boy is she well hidden. This is looking through the passenger side wheel well:

fcoWF.jpg

EDIT: You'll probably have to work through there too it's about the only practical way I can imagine.

I'm gonna hate

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OK, she's there, but boy is she well hidden. This is looking through the passenger side wheel well:

EDIT: You'll probably have to work through there too it's about the only practical way I can imagine.

oh my god. i have to go through the wheel well just to get my arm torn up just to loosen the tensioner?

i'm seriously hoping that the 2.4L i4 might be different than the V6.

my friend is picking up a stock 80amp alternator from a scrap yard hopefully tomorrow or saturday.

do you think that after i do the big three and get my Kinetik HC1800, ill have to worry about this problem again for my 1k rms?

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I can't say. I would need to know what your amp clamps at. A new alternator wouldn't be a bad idea, you can only get away with so much on a single battery.

I'm gonna hate

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well just went to look under the hood.

and to my dismay, i see some coils on the alternator that aren't such a comforting color.

314017_4126644926692_203565333_n.jpg

314017_4126645006694_1823170305_n.jpg

314017_4126645086696_1160869567_n.jpg

this may confirm what i was suspecting. in a way settling, but it still sucks!

hopefully i can get that alternator in and won't have too much problems with it.

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well just went to look under the hood.

and to my dismay, i see some coils on the alternator that aren't such a comforting color.

314017_4126644926692_203565333_n.jpg

314017_4126645006694_1823170305_n.jpg

314017_4126645086696_1160869567_n.jpg

this may confirm what i was suspecting. in a way settling, but it still sucks!

hopefully i can get that alternator in and won't have too much problems with it.

I'd say that's a good thing if you already have the replacement! It could have been much, much worse, ya'know?

I'm gonna hate

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