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I try not to use bracing. Just double, triple or even quadruple your wood thickness if you're after SPL. Sometimes internal bracing can hurt.

Exactly right! any type of bracing will hurt your spl in a true spl box. If you absolutely have to brace, keep it round like a dowel or all thread and if you use all thread, run it through the same ID pipe or pvc cut to length.

Michael Hughes = 6X SPL World Champion - Loudest on the planet in db Drag, USACi, and IASCA.

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What should I use to brace my box? Are there some things that work better then others? Let me know.

Oh and I was also wondering what should the dimensions of my port be if my vehicle peaks at 46 hz? My box is around 12 cubic feet, one chamber, and I am doing subs up port near rear glass in the center of the box, and I just don't know how big to make it.

for tuning i use this site here. it seems to work pretty good. but for spl tuning trial and error will be the best

http://www.carstereo.com/help2/Articles.cfm?id=31

as for bracing the box. if you have a slot port in the middle that will help. you can then also add another baffle on the top. bracing the sides will most likely not help with your equipment.

Ford Explorer 2000

4 12'' Type R's under window line

Legal: 155+ dB

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Exactly right! any type of bracing will hurt your spl in a true spl box. If you absolutely have to brace, keep it round like a dowel or all thread and if you use all thread, run it through the same ID pipe or pvc cut to length.

i think id listen to this man and call it done!!

....and u could always do some sorth of external bracing...like wraping the outside in 2x4's...but if u have the room to do that then you probably have the room for extra extra thick walls to begin with...

i likes me some audio stuff...

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a row of 2 x 4's on the outside covered with another MDF layer will stiffen your shit up big time!!!!

2006 F-150

4 DC XL M2 18's Walled Daily Driver

XS Power

4 DC 3.5kw

Team DC

Team S.P.L.

Lot of Audio Technix and 1/0

DC Audio Dealer

American Bass Dealer

XS Power Dealer

Audio Technix Dealer

DWRIGHT-1-1.jpg

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I like all of the replies after I finished the box haha, I ended up building another box anyways, double top and what not, 9 cubes tuned to 42 hz, only took 3 hours. It came out very nice too, puts up good numbers.

0202081514.jpg

2000 Ford Explorer XLT

-20" RVM "Buck" Wheels

-2.5% Tint

-CompuStar Vizion Alarm

-(4) Infinity Kappa 680.7cs 5x7"

-1 XStatic BatCap Model 300

-2 18" DC LVL 4's

-Amps are undecided

m_8e0e9deb0e2a020a7ff1bf0d3a6c3306.jpg

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I like all of the replies after I finished the box haha, I ended up building another box anyways, double top and what not, 9 cubes tuned to 42 hz, only took 3 hours. It came out very nice too, puts up good numbers.

0202081514.jpg

thats not under window line........

you will be able to get an easy 2db more out of that system without changing box volume or tuning. in testing in my explorer i found if you use the same port and always face it back, but change where it faces back it can be a whole db difference.

Ford Explorer 2000

4 12'' Type R's under window line

Legal: 155+ dB

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Yah it is the box is 17" high.

And I am not building another box until I purchase my DCs and even then who knows.

I still need an amp pushing over 1000 RMS haha.

I am at 144.3 with my amp right now who knows if I actually had the 2000 RMS they need.

Edit: TL on the windshield passenger side legal all sealed up.

Edited by REVOK1NER

2000 Ford Explorer XLT

-20" RVM "Buck" Wheels

-2.5% Tint

-CompuStar Vizion Alarm

-(4) Infinity Kappa 680.7cs 5x7"

-1 XStatic BatCap Model 300

-2 18" DC LVL 4's

-Amps are undecided

m_8e0e9deb0e2a020a7ff1bf0d3a6c3306.jpg

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