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Help On Finding a 1500 Watt 0.5 Ohm Stable Amp


ThatRockfordFosgateGuy

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local here has t1500bdcp on stock electrical at .5 and it gets down. Only has big 3 and upgraded main batt and 4 guage wiring beast amp

wiring at .5 is risky on that amp. but some people get away with it. the amp itself just isnt as forgiving as others when wiring to .5,

Well if he has as much rise as you speak of then he should be fine wiring to .5 ohms right? but since I don't know if this guy is experienced or not then I'm not gonna go out and recommend him to run an amp that is rated at 1 ohm to run at .5 ohms. If he wires to 2 then even if he does rise to 4 like you said he will (not for sure and might not rise near that much) then he will still be getting around 1200 which is where the subs are rated anyways and it will put alot less stress on his electrical

I've gotten a blowjob and picked up my iphone behind her back to see what email notification I got from smd before

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Was judging by the guys name and recommending an Rockford amp for him. He shouldn't lose too terrible amount of power with rise. It's rated for 1,000 at 4 ohms. And Rockford just like all the other companies listed underrate their amps.

I guess if he's worried about the 500 watts effecting how loud it is, he could build the box a little bigger to get more efficiency.

I agree with that. but he could be louder and sound just as good with another amp as well. I personally have heard that amp @ 2 ohms and was disappointed to say the least. it didn't sound like 1k at all.

but a big box for efficiency is the way to go if he chooses that amp. definitely don't wire to .5 ohm unless you are prepared to buy another amp. ahah

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local here has t1500bdcp on stock electrical at .5 and it gets down. Only has big 3 and upgraded main batt and 4 guage wiring beast amp

wiring at .5 is risky on that amp. but some people get away with it. the amp itself just isnt as forgiving as others when wiring to .5,

Well if he has as much rise as you speak of then he should be fine wiring to .5 ohms right? but since I don't know if this guy is experienced or not then I'm not gonna go out and recommend him to run an amp that is rated at 1 ohm to run at .5 ohms. If he wires to 2 then even if he does rise to 4 like you said he will (not for sure and might not rise near that much) then he will still be getting around 1200 which is where the subs are rated anyways and it will put alot less stress on his electrical

im too tired to begin to explain rise to you. i will try anyway. at points his subs if wired to 2 ohms will be at 2 ohms at amp but on music since it is so dynamic, it will usually be higher. when playing a single tone for a burp it is much easier to pin point exact rise. the RF T1500 has a protect circuit if it senses below 1 ohm. so the min the dynamic music plays, it will read .5 ohms then 8 ohms then 6 ohms then 2 ohms. if the amp doesnt catch when it hits .5 and tries to output power... POOF. there goes the amp. but at 2 ohms, for a majority of the time, the amp will see higher than 2 ohms. which means less than 1k rms to those subs.

i dont see OP being happy with that power.

like i said before, i have wired that amp to 2 ohms with a very efficient box and was not impressed at all.

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there's no way to tell what his rise will be on music....because it's music. no sense in trying to combat rise or say 'you'll get xxxxx amount of power out of said amp after rise' because music is too dynamic

 

 

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there's no way to tell what his rise will be on music....because it's music. no sense in trying to combat rise or say 'you'll get xxxxx amount of power out of said amp after rise' because music is too dynamic

yea i said music was dynamic. made numbers up to try to explain it. but you can try to combat rise. if you have an amp you can wire lower to lets say .5 ohm, that will help.

every install i have done or system i have heard that wires down to play daily on music sounds louder. it does combat the rise. personally i have never blown anything, subs or amps, but i know others on here have blown an amp or 2. im not saying there is no risk but its worth it to wire down if the amp can handle it. and maybe im biased because i run DD amps and dem bishes like to get wired low.

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my post wasn't aimed at you specifically. i see lots of posts about wiring to .5 to fight rise. that's only really beneficial in burp cars where you know the exact rise so then you can get the most out of your amp at that one frequency. imo wiring lower than 1 ohm adds more stress/heat to the internals of the amp and shortens the life span.

 

 

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lmao@Bumb4life and his lose understanding of box rise

i like how your statments lead people to belive all boxes have at least 2 ohms of rise

ps i stoped reading after your 3rd reply

i do what works bud. never blown an amp, sub speaker, fuse, what ever else you can blow in a car. that a pretty simple way to explain box rise. not the most in depth way but it gets the idea across.

not saying every box has a ton of rise but in a lot of applications a descent amount of rise is present.

i like how every post you make disagreeing with someone is because its not the way YOU do it. there is more than one way to do things.

"Oh but I have built x amount of boxes, and done so many tests," good for you. i am glad you are successful. i know how this conversation goes.

one thing i stand by in car audio and what you make your claim to fame on here is, experience. yea it all looks good on paper, and oh no the manual or company tells you not to wire below x impedence. if you know what your doing from experience or willing to go out and learn from doing that is the only true way to get louder, sound better. you can wire lower to help against box rise. if you plan properly and take it easy nothing should go really wrong. at least that has been my experience.

personally, i think i understand box rise enough to play daily @ .5 ohm. no problems to date. no amp shut offs or anything. and personally me doing a 146.4 today sealed with my car off on music was a pretty good feeling. shop owner didnt want to leave garage open because of A/C so i had to keep car off. keep in mind im in a trunk car that has an unsealed trunk at the moment firing forward.

so how bout you save your loose understanding of box rise flame comment for another choch on here who doesnt actually understand rise. and if you really do know a thing or two like i think you do, add to this thread and explain box rise to the nice members of this forum in a more advanced exact way, instead of hating on a fellow member who is helping with good advice which was obtained from MY tests with exact amp OP is asking about.

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BMW M340 xDrive

Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4...
Best Scores out of a trunk
153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz
154+ windows down, 155+ kick

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