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dmm gain setting


ZachG

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lol steve and i go back and forth on this every time and I knew this wouldnt be an exception. heres my simplified response because there really isnt anything new to add to this ongoing debate. and the debate isnt about the dd1, its about a DMM being good enough to do the job.

why do I care about 100% no distortion? if i have a small amount of distortion will my speakers burn up? will I hear it when im playing 150db? for me, and i think they are logical answers: I don't. they will not. I will not.

spending all day doing math? lol come on man, that's just comically dramatic. every computer has a calculator, so does every cell phone. it takes all of about 5 seconds to do the math. 30 seconds if you're really slow, like if it's your first time.

I've gotten plenty of first places in SPL and beaten many systems that were much larger than mine. I've also gotten many first places in SQ. I've always used a DMM to tune and I never smoked a speaker using that method. so again, it's never let me down. everyone used to use it. I have no reason to change and I know it works. so i will continue to laugh at the people who used to praise the DMM method and now say its a dog shit method (because thats just funny lol) and I will continue to tell people it's ok to use one (just like the entire forum did not that long ago).

ok, one last comment for the sake of peace. I've never told anyone NOT to get a dd1. but if they come asking about the DMM method, I'm going to answer their questions.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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lol steve and i go back and forth on this every time and I knew this wouldnt be an exception. heres my simplified response because there really isnt anything new to add to this ongoing debate. and the debate isnt about the dd1, its about a DMM being good enough to do the job.

why do I care about 100% no distortion? if i have a small amount of distortion will my speakers burn up? will I hear it when im playing 150db? for me, and i think they are logical answers: I don't. they will not. I will not.

spending all day doing math? lol come on man, that's just comically dramatic. every computer has a calculator, so does every cell phone. it takes all of about 5 seconds to do the math. 30 seconds if you're really slow, like if it's your first time.

I've gotten plenty of first places in SPL and beaten many systems that were much larger than mine. I've also gotten many first places in SQ. I've always used a DMM to tune and I never smoked a speaker using that method. so again, it's never let me down. everyone used to use it. I have no reason to change and I know it works. so i will continue to laugh at the people who used to praise the DMM method and now say its a dog shit method (because thats just funny lol) and I will continue to tell people it's ok to use one (just like the entire forum did not that long ago).

ok, one last comment for the sake of peace. I've never told anyone NOT to get a dd1. but if they come asking about the DMM method, I'm going to answer their questions.

cool bro, answer my questions then. How do you find the maximum non distorted output of the deck with a DMM? How do you find the maximum non distorted output of whatever is in between the deck and the amp with a DMM? Lets say your DMM gets you in the ballpark. Whats the ball park? Is it 30 out of 35 on the deck or is it 20 out of 35? The MOST IMPORTANT thing when setting gains, is matching the gain to the source. That's the entire purpose of it. Not to turn it up until your 3,000 watt amp shows "3,000 watts" after you do some math.

A DMM is just as good as using the Ear-O-Meter IMO. I used to guess my gains for years back in the day and i didn't blow speakers up...but that didn't make it right. Just because you didn't blow up your tweeters doesn't mean your gains were correct LOL.

Also, The reason all these people (who USED to praise the DMM trick) are now talking DD-1 is because they now see how silly it is to use the DMM. Once you get a basic grasp of setting gains, you see that in the very minimum an O-scope is required to do the job CORRECTLY. Now something better is out, but not to be the salesman, i will just leave it at that.


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so steve being the salesman you are you realize you're not going to get a sale from everyone. i respect that! also thanks for the free test tones off the d'amore site.

i realize i'm not being attacked nor do i want to attack this is just general learning information.

i will admit i use a mid level o-scope for tuning. i paid about what it costs for a DD-1 and CC-1. i purchased it just before the DD-1 came out. before that i ear tuned. an i never felt like it was good enough. listening for the sine wave to sweep up was difficult. my scope has more functions then i can find uses for. mainly due to i use it for audio use 99% of the time. i can tune crossover over points and set gains with it no issue. but if i needed to match a series of amps i'm going to run into a bit of error room. however i could get close i do believe the CC-1 would do a better job. but never have i ever said yeah a DMM is the ticket! i remember JL used to have a gain setting how-to on their site. what a joke that was. i'm glad to see they used the DD-1 recently to test some products. but back on track. the o-scope i have is not going to pick up the distortion like that of the DD-1 in a non-clipped signal. however i have scoped some guys cars and told them "your amp is shit" when a signal is clean from the HU and the second i test the output on the amp my wave is all over the place you know you got issues. but it's not that easy or quick sometimes. now i'm rambling. i will stop now.

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lol steve and i go back and forth on this every time and I knew this wouldnt be an exception. heres my simplified response because there really isnt anything new to add to this ongoing debate. and the debate isnt about the dd1, its about a DMM being good enough to do the job.

why do I care about 100% no distortion? if i have a small amount of distortion will my speakers burn up? will I hear it when im playing 150db? for me, and i think they are logical answers: I don't. they will not. I will not.

spending all day doing math? lol come on man, that's just comically dramatic. every computer has a calculator, so does every cell phone. it takes all of about 5 seconds to do the math. 30 seconds if you're really slow, like if it's your first time.

I've gotten plenty of first places in SPL and beaten many systems that were much larger than mine. I've also gotten many first places in SQ. I've always used a DMM to tune and I never smoked a speaker using that method. so again, it's never let me down. everyone used to use it. I have no reason to change and I know it works. so i will continue to laugh at the people who used to praise the DMM method and now say its a dog shit method (because thats just funny lol) and I will continue to tell people it's ok to use one (just like the entire forum did not that long ago).

ok, one last comment for the sake of peace. I've never told anyone NOT to get a dd1. but if they come asking about the DMM method, I'm going to answer their questions.

cool bro, answer my questions then. How do you find the maximum non distorted output of the deck with a DMM? How do you find the maximum non distorted output of whatever is in between the deck and the amp with a DMM? Lets say your DMM gets you in the ballpark. Whats the ball park? Is it 30 out of 35 on the deck or is it 20 out of 35? The MOST IMPORTANT thing when setting gains, is matching the gain to the source. That's the entire purpose of it. Not to turn it up until your 3,000 watt amp shows "3,000 watts" after you do some math.

A DMM is just as good as using the Ear-O-Meter IMO. I used to guess my gains for years back in the day and i didn't blow speakers up...but that didn't make it right. Just because you didn't blow up your tweeters doesn't mean your gains were correct LOL.

Also, The reason all these people (who USED to praise the DMM trick) are now talking DD-1 is because they now see how silly it is to use the DMM. Once you get a basic grasp of setting gains, you see that in the very minimum an O-scope is required to do the job CORRECTLY. Now something better is out, but not to be the salesman, i will just leave it at that.

you know how to tune with a DMM so why ask that? i have tested tuning with my DMM and then putting my o-scope on the amp and i found it was perfectly accurate. since then i haven't touched my scope. again, no reason to.

in terms of avoiding distortion; the deck volume doesnt really matter, put it at 1/2 volume, it wont make a difference. it just means the gain is up higher. thats not how i do it, thats just an example.

again, why do i care about 100% no distortion? and if you do get distortion, you will only get it when you turn it up to your max volume anyways. and when you are going full tilt... who can hear that? who cares? you're just trying to be loud. with panel vibrations and your ears vibrating like crazy you will never hear a little distortion. turn it down a little bit and you have a clean signal again. the same exact thing will happen with a dd1. by setting with a -3db tone or -6db tone you are making a guess that the content you listen to wont be at a higher level than that. if the recording is higher, you're distorting when you're going full tilt. if its lower, you lose output. of course you can compensate by guessing what volume to set it at.

now im sure you have been with d'amore while he did his testing. if what i just said is incorrect, please explain to me, in a technical way, what i got wrong. I love learning something new but i cant accept as fact, or learn anything from a complicated form of "because it's better". if we lived closer or i had trips planned to sac i would love to sit down and test this stuff out. i think that would be a lot of fun. sadly, this keeps going on in a loop over the internet lol.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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Like a year or two ago everyone recommended using a dmm and that's what I used around 2 years ago for my btl and never had a problem. Now everyone is saying to buy the DD-1...my how things change lol.

thats what I keep saying! half the people in this thread talking about how stupid it is to use a DMM used to throw the DMM tuning how-to at everyone. its fucking retarded. and i know someone will lash out if i dont praise the dd1 a little, it is a nice simple tool. BUT a DMM DOES work. ive tuned a 12k, 3ks at .5ohm and even 1500s at .25ohm with a DMM. never had a problem. it has always been my method for tuning and seeing as how it's never giving me any trouble, and so many people successfully use the DMM method for so may years, I dont see any reason for me to change methods.

But, to actually answer the OP's question. you are doing it correctly. using a -3db tone will be a fairly safe way to go. I use a -6db tone but I know when to take it easy.

Exact same damn thing I was thinking reading through this thread. Actually pissed me off a little when I first realized it.

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A dd-1 is like 170$

That's a lot to use it a couple times, how bad could it be if I used a dmm

170 Isn't a lot when it is your insurance on protecting hundreds or thousands worth of audio equipment.

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Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's]

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How good is that insurance?

A dd-1 is like 170$

That's a lot to use it a couple times, how bad could it be if I used a dmm

170 Isn't a lot when it is your insurance on protecting hundreds or thousands worth of audio equipment.

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5 sundown SAZ 1500s V1

Item(s) Description/Condition:

All amps need new driver boards. I was trying out the SMD distortion detector and that thing is a joke. It messed up 5 out of my 6 amps....i sold the other 1 that wasn't affected. Nothing popped or is burnt when you take off the back plate. I talked to DB-R and the cost to replace the driver board and have it fixed is $75 per amp plus return shipping.They also said that they have had multiple problems when it comes to the SMD device. They told me to pass the word around not to use it. I just bought new amps so i have no use for these anymore. i really dont want to put the money into them to get fixed if i dont have to' date=' but if these dont sell i am going to have to.Just seeing if i have any luck with people that might want them. I can take pictures and post them if need be.[/Quote']

I don't put images in my signature to let people know I mean business.

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dude, you are IMPOSSIBLE. You have No clue on why a gain is on the side of an amp. You keep thinking your way is proper, and i will keep teaching people the RIGHT WAY. The DMM is a joke for setting gains just like using the clip-light.


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How good is that insurance?

A dd-1 is like 170$

That's a lot to use it a couple times, how bad could it be if I used a dmm

170 Isn't a lot when it is your insurance on protecting hundreds or thousands worth of audio equipment.

Item(s) for Sale:

5 sundown SAZ 1500s V1

Item(s) Description/Condition:

All amps need new driver boards. I was trying out the SMD distortion detector and that thing is a joke. It messed up 5 out of my 6 amps....i sold the other 1 that wasn't affected. Nothing popped or is burnt when you take off the back plate. I talked to DB-R and the cost to replace the driver board and have it fixed is $75 per amp plus return shipping.They also said that they have had multiple problems when it comes to the SMD device. They told me to pass the word around not to use it. I just bought new amps so i have no use for these anymore. i really dont want to put the money into them to get fixed if i dont have to' date=' but if these dont sell i am going to have to.Just seeing if i have any luck with people that might want them. I can take pictures and post them if need be.[/Quote']

whoever wrote that is a lying bastard LOL - no way in hell the DD-1 burnt up anyones amp. Not any more then a scope or a dmm would......complete fabrication. Anyone who buys that story is stupid as hell.


All SMD products + MORE available at my store here! https://wccaraudio.com/ 
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Subscribe to My Youtube Channel! Over 1,000,000 subscribers strong! Turn on your notifications!
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Follow My Instagram! Daily live feeds from the shop, exclusive content way before it hits my Youtube channel...and little squares with photo's in them :D
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