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stock electrical okay for AQ2200?


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Should be 1100

90 Nissan 240sx

Avic z-140bh

Audison SR4

Audison Voce 6.5s

CDT es-20 tweeters

Sundown 1500v3

(2) DD 9510's

3 cube box 2 6" aeros

XS Power D2400 & Xp950

Skyhigh/Knukonceptz/Rockford Fosgate wiring

More Coming Soon.. Check my builds below.

97 Civic Hatch Build

86 Caprice Build

you can pick up a chick in a car... I think it'd be hard to roll up mackin on a broad sittin on a sundown. My opinion

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Yeah i got mixed up. LOL

90 Nissan 240sx

Avic z-140bh

Audison SR4

Audison Voce 6.5s

CDT es-20 tweeters

Sundown 1500v3

(2) DD 9510's

3 cube box 2 6" aeros

XS Power D2400 & Xp950

Skyhigh/Knukonceptz/Rockford Fosgate wiring

More Coming Soon.. Check my builds below.

97 Civic Hatch Build

86 Caprice Build

you can pick up a chick in a car... I think it'd be hard to roll up mackin on a broad sittin on a sundown. My opinion

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everyones gotta stop hating on .5 ohm daily systems. let them do it. they will either be very happy, or learn the hard way that a solid electrical is important. hopefully the amp can be repaired. AQ amps like low impedence anyway. i think he is smart enough to turn it down if he drops below 12v. he has been active in a couple .5ohm threads. these amps are tough mofos. 2 good bats and a very good electrical wiring is all you need for a daily pounder. im not saying that is optimal for the lanes but take it from someone who ran that amp on a beefy stock battery, hella wiring, and a 90A stock alt, yea i dropped to 12 volts, but these amps are 12v amps, they can work down there for you. the minute you drop below 11v with no batteries now you are asking for trouble. cause you now have no amperage reserve or high voltage, now that is when things start burning.

OP good wiring is the key to getting away with a stock alt. make things as easy as possible for your stock alt to recharge your reserves cause they will be heavily tapped with that amp at .5ohm. not the most efficient amp at .5. they are hungry.

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Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4...
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I won't stop straying noobs from running .5 ohm systems for daily. Not that long ago in the audio world, people were "crazy" for running 1 ohm. There's so much loss through heat and amp inefficiency. It seems silly to give the Green light to someone new to car audio that just wants a battery, Big 3 and to run .5 ohm. Buying the correct subs to be able to run the amp to 1 ohm is a MUCH smarter idea.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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I won't stop straying noobs from running .5 ohm systems for daily. Not that long ago in the audio world, people were "crazy" for running 1 ohm. There's so much loss through heat and amp inefficiency. It seems silly to give the Green light to someone new to car audio that just wants a battery, Big 3 and to run .5 ohm. Buying the correct subs to be able to run the amp to 1 ohm is a MUCH smarter idea.

ill agree it is smarter to wire at 1 ohms, and that it is more efficient and wayy less heat. but from all installs i have done, wiring to .5ohms on a quality amp that can do it with no problems, it is the way to go. it is so much louder. impressively louder. after rise you are above 1 ohm a lot of the time anyway. not all the time but enough to where a quality amp such as AQ wont miss a beat. i agree with you, a noob shouldnt run .5 ohm. but this guy is catching on. if he does everything listed he should be fine.

edit: big 3 in OFC and a big battery in the back is usually enough to run 2k amps and below at .5ohm.

Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/
MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136
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My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1

BMW M340 xDrive

Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4...
Best Scores out of a trunk
153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz
154+ windows down, 155+ kick

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Stop hating? Maybe it is because you are so young, but doing to 2ohms was considered crazy, then 1 ohm. If people planned out their systems better you wouldn't have my only options are .5 or 2 and my puts out rated at 1ohm. Will he blow his AQ? Maybe not, but why put him down a road that's completely unnecessary? No one has even considered alternator or if his gains are set correctly, or even will be. If he lacks the experience here, then these also will be factors to consider. I'm glad though that you won't hate on .5ohm setups.

Mind you I have wired lower than 1 ohm many, many times. I also never posted questions asking about it, I just did it.

Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you?

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Stop hating? Maybe it is because you are so young, but doing to 2ohms was considered crazy, then 1 ohm. If people planned out their systems better you wouldn't have my only options are .5 or 2 and my puts out rated at 1ohm. Will he blow his AQ? Maybe not, but why put him down a road that's completely unnecessary? No one has even considered alternator or if his gains are set correctly, or even will be. If he lacks the experience here, then these also will be factors to consider. I'm glad though that you won't hate on .5ohm setups.

Mind you I have wired lower than 1 ohm many, many times. I also never posted questions asking about it, I just did it.

haha it might be because i am young. to me 2 ohm was standard to subs 1 ohm was to get loud, .5ohm was to be crazy. and i learned about .5ohm because i had 2 D2 subs. and it worked cause i did my research.

but keep in mind, he will blow his subs wired to any impedence if his gains are incorrect, and of course with a smaller tolerance at .5ohm.

he has to know something. and if he doesnt he can ask here.

and in my opinion the .5ohm road is just another option especially with AQ. they come alive at lower impedences

Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/
MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136
MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/
My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1

BMW M340 xDrive

Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4...
Best Scores out of a trunk
153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz
154+ windows down, 155+ kick

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so im getting hated on for asking if its okay to run at .5 ohms...but only because i asked before i did it and it makes me looks stupid for the inexperience? and this is by a person who said the first time they did it, they didn't even ask, they just did it? did i miss something? i appreciate the input guys, i am trying to learn. if there was an instruction manual about wiring at .5 ohms and the pre-reqs that it needed..believe me, i wouldn't have posted. But this TC Sounds LMS-4000 just isn't gonna like 1100 rms, ill run it for the time being until i get my electrical upgrades. so lets keep on track with this and get into more details about the actual batteries and wiring:

is the auto electric supply usually the cheapest site to get a big 3 upgrade?

From what ive gathered about batts, im gonna want a group 34 up front and a group 31 in the back? what kind of total cranking amps should i be aiming for between the two for my amp to be safe at the minimum? i tried entering my vehicle on XS, but it gave me an error. is there any other place that can calculate your battery sizing availability? im currently away from my vehicle until sunday so i cant take exact measurements personally.

I might not be asking the right questions here, let me know if im missing anything. thanks.

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