WastedTalent Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 "Don't see an application for your car? Email me, we can build alternators for just about any application. We can build alternators for almost every application from 140a to 425a output for all applicaions from racing to..." Straight from Mechman's site. For that budget, that's probably not gonna get you much. I wouldn't even recommend anything else (if I knew anything else) for alts rather than those 3 but I'm pretty sure they're roughly around the same price. Getting 200-250 amp alt, seems like it'd be about double your budget. And that's just for the alt itself. If you don't want to/know how to install it, then of course you pay labor at your garage to get it installed. That's why I recommended the battery and big 3. It's not super difficult, and even if you go to a garage (I honestly probably would afraid of screwing something up as I'm not inclined like that), it wouldn't be too expensive. And would help, just maybe not that answer that you need. And with the alt, you'd have to do the big 3 as well. So either way, it's the big 3. If you don't do the big 3 with an alt, your wiring will get fried. But the only way to find out really what it'd cost, email them. All 3 of them are pretty highly recommended on here with all these audio guru's here. Sheena = pedobear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbox88 Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 Intresting Lbox, i remember a 0/1 gauge wire comparsion thread from last or 2 years ago. The size of the Cadence was near on the biggest size in this comparsion, but it was the red one. So no more guessing blue Cadence wire, thx. I know it sounds retarded but i was not too happy when I saw the difference. From left to right: RF 1/0 Red 1/0 Cadence by the foot Blue 1/0 cadence from flash kit Advanced auto 2 AWG battery cable Lightning audio 4 AWG UBL | Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8ight Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 The wire in the Flash kits is noticeably stiffer and smaller, I have noticed this as well. I use Audiopipe and Cadence 0ga (same thing) and once I encountered the flash wiring I was not impressed. I'm gonna hate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noobtastic14 Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 Ray, you have way to much genius to be posting in riddles. Your alternator is at 14.4v and your battery is at 12.8v If you have a hundred batteries they will all still be 12.8v while the alternator is charging at 14.4 With your stereo off, you sit comfortably at 14+ but when there is a demand, you will dip down to 12.8 before the batteries kick in and you supply the demand. What you are seeing in the lights is the drop in voltage from alternator 14+ to (or near to) battery voltage at 12.8v, like I said, this drop will occur with a hundred batteries. The "big3" and grounding tips are to minimize the drop, making the headlight dimming effect less noticeable. Batteries will never fix the dimming headlights. -Drew I am a United States Military Arts and Crafts Professional. Sand it off, Paint it on. uhoh_45 said: dont be a pussy P give the jeep to drew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 Do you think it even matters drew? An alt for that car will be 6-700 min OP. Get HIDS, and never see your lights dim again 2008 California state record holder 157.2 Bassrace2009 California state record holder 157.0 BassraceRollin 50's 158.7db2009 King of Cali Bassrace2009 USACi score 160.5 @ 42hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrChinoSun Posted September 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 Do you think it even matters drew? An alt for that car will be 6-700 min OP. Get HIDS, and never see your lights dim again My car comes with stock Bi-Xenon HIDs they dont dim my cluster dims and when it dims my car runs funny feels like its putting alot of stress on my alternator and making my engine work harder..... Also when i added a second battery to the trunk it takes a little longer to start now... I also heard that the stock size battery for my car is whimpy..... Here's also my setup and car: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 the more power your car draws, the more horsepower you lose. alts take power from the engine to spin. like your AC. when you turn that on, doesnt your car seem like it accelerates slower? same principle. you have a 110 amp alt from what i can see. i also dont see how a 4.5 liter v8 can have a small battery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrChinoSun Posted September 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 the more power your car draws, the more horsepower you lose. alts take power from the engine to spin. like your AC. when you turn that on, doesnt your car seem like it accelerates slower? same principle. you have a 110 amp alt from what i can see. i also dont see how a 4.5 liter v8 can have a small battery so what size alternator should i get and are alternators hard to change out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 what is that Gravity optima looking thing? and why do you only have + wires hooked up to it and not -? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrChinoSun Posted September 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 what is that Gravity optima looking thing? and why do you only have + wires hooked up to it and not -? it's the capacitor people said i should take it out and there is black wires from cap to battery to ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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