Crandis16 Posted September 11, 2012 Report Posted September 11, 2012 Very cool car first of all. I would do sub up port back with 2 subs depending on how much room you have to work with. I would do head unit, then subs/amp wiring, then mids/highs My Red zx2 Build Log My Black zx2 Build Log My Red zx2 UBL
Neckbeard Posted September 11, 2012 Author Report Posted September 11, 2012 alright, so, with everyone's input here is what im thinking 2 either 12's or 15's ( a friend of mine has some high end diamond audios that come with the amp, batt and what not for $900, a really big steal) custom box with sub up port back and i watched twistedchild420's video about the cadences mid/tweeters, they are cheap for how good they sound. so ill probably end up saving up for those. thinking 6's in the front and 8's in the back for mids, and gonna go with some cadences tweeters. i want to learn how to build pods (maybe someone can make/link me a video on a how-to ;D ) any further input will be highly appreciated 2 skar 12s an aq 1200 annd a new head unit. spend whats left on a cheaper comp set for the fronts of head unit power. should i go with 12's or the 15's i was just talking about?? Build log, Super slow!!: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/168096-slow-neckbeards-1970-opel-gt/
Neckbeard Posted September 11, 2012 Author Report Posted September 11, 2012 2 skar 12s an aq 1200 annd a new head unit. spend whats left on a cheaper comp set for the fronts of head unit power. Also, which skars should i go with? Build log, Super slow!!: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/168096-slow-neckbeards-1970-opel-gt/
Sheena Posted September 11, 2012 Report Posted September 11, 2012 2 skar 12s an aq 1200 annd a new head unit. spend whats left on a cheaper comp set for the fronts of head unit power. Also, which skars should i go with? V V X series. 09 Civic EX KDC-X395 (2) SKAR Audio VVX-12 Skar Audio SK-1500.1 4 cu ft @32 (new box and more port soon) Firing Forward not sealed off Stock 80 Amp Alt Big 3 In 1/0 Knu 2 Runs To The Back 1 Pos 1 Neg In 1/0 Knu DD-1'd 13.8v drop
Neckbeard Posted September 11, 2012 Author Report Posted September 11, 2012 2 skar 12s an aq 1200 annd a new head unit. spend whats left on a cheaper comp set for the fronts of head unit power. Also, which skars should i go with? V V X series. ty sir!! once i get the build going ill try and keep people interested :3 Build log, Super slow!!: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/168096-slow-neckbeards-1970-opel-gt/
STL.Don Posted September 12, 2012 Report Posted September 12, 2012 Now I know you are close to being set on a certain sub and amp combo, but just hear me out. If you want to go all out for your first system meaning badass everything I would get a piece or two at a time. That is what I am doing. I have two Ascendant Audio Chaos subs and two Earthquake Sound PHD2000W amps (one for each sub) and I am getting them installed in about a week. I know the wait is well worth it and they are going to knock. This is my third system (first in my current car) and first thing I had done was new head unit, next are wires, subs, box, and amps, my next step will be loud speakers, tweeters, and a two or four channel amp for them. I know how much it will approximately cost so I am working on that amount now as I have been saving for a few months to get the rest installed. Now that most of my college expenses are taken care of I have to just worry about my car insurance and I am about set for the rest. I wish you good luck, and that is a car that will be awesome for subs, just remember to be cautious of the electrical. Also I have been told the door pods aren't bad. I have personally not done any but from my knowledge of wood working I know I could easily, I just want my car to look fairly stock to avoid break ins.
TeamHT Posted September 12, 2012 Report Posted September 12, 2012 :facepalm: $900 is a steal? Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you?
n8ball2013 Posted September 12, 2012 Report Posted September 12, 2012 12s or 15s is up to you. it all depends on how much space you want to give up. i dont know how much cargo space you have to start with so i cant make that call on what I would do. If you are wanting to tote stuff around Id recommend the typical hatch box and do subs up port back or to the side that way you dont have to worry about stuff sliding through your woofers becasue you are carrying things in the back. put the amps between the back seat and the box and you'll have whatevers left for your cargo area. and that used up my quota for helpful input for the day. I shall now return you to my normally scheduled asshole self. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
Team Bassick - Kimo Posted September 12, 2012 Report Posted September 12, 2012 First before anything should be a serious eveluation on your electrical system. Sounds to me it is going to be first car fitst system. If so, I suggest you stretch the money as far as you can. One to get a complete system. Two to get the most components as possible (deck, amp, speakers and subs). Three when it is all done you will have a working system, experienced putting a full system together and most importantly everything is working. Piece by piece is always good way of doing things but, patients and funds can wear thin. I suggest picking up a solid 5 channel or decent 4 channel and mono block but don't exceed 1000 watts (unless stock electrical is upgraded). Two sets of coaxials or one set of components. A pair of tens or twelves and a head unit. I know locally I can pick these up at a diatibutor of mine so online should not be a problem. KIMO @teambassick http://www.teambassick.com
Neckbeard Posted September 12, 2012 Author Report Posted September 12, 2012 :facepalm: $900 is a steal? its about $2500 worth of equipment :m 12s or 15s is up to you. it all depends on how much space you want to give up. i dont know how much cargo space you have to start with so i cant make that call on what I would do. If you are wanting to tote stuff around Id recommend the typical hatch box and do subs up port back or to the side that way you dont have to worry about stuff sliding through your woofers becasue you are carrying things in the back. put the amps between the back seat and the box and you'll have whatevers left for your cargo area. and that used up my quota for helpful input for the day. I shall now return you to my normally scheduled asshole self. the only thing i would even think about hauling would be my backpack, and my snowboard, but i wouldnt put my snowboard in the back any ways First before anything should be a serious eveluation on your electrical system. Sounds to me it is going to be first car fitst system. If so, I suggest you stretch the money as far as you can. One to get a complete system. Two to get the most components as possible (deck, amp, speakers and subs). Three when it is all done you will have a working system, experienced putting a full system together and most importantly everything is working. Piece by piece is always good way of doing things but, patients and funds can wear thin. I suggest picking up a solid 5 channel or decent 4 channel and mono block but don't exceed 1000 watts (unless stock electrical is upgraded). Two sets of coaxials or one set of components. A pair of tens or twelves and a head unit. I know locally I can pick these up at a diatibutor of mine so online should not be a problem. define stock electrical? you mean like the battery and all the wires running to and from it? Build log, Super slow!!: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/168096-slow-neckbeards-1970-opel-gt/
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