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Sealing rear window - SUV


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Wondering what you guys would recommend to seal my rear window? Was thinking black silicone because it would be somewhat flexible. Ive had this truck forever now, Have never opened the rear window... Always the hatch, So Im not worried about not being able to open it in the future. Pretty sure it would do away with some of the window rattle. Put a little second skin on it where you cant see, It did help a little. But Ive made up my mind and I want to seal it

Rebuild in progress...

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i did the opposite i sealed the lower half of my rear hatch and kept the glass operable i have a 2000' expedition w/ 2- re audio xxx15 d2 subs in a 4.0cuft ported enclosure tuned @ 33hz i also used 2 layers of fatmat rattle trap extreme sound dampener on the roof and around the glass it helped alot w/ the rattle so let me know how it goes for you

if you dont own or drive a customized car/truck/suv you suck lol

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i did the opposite i sealed the lower half of my rear hatch and kept the glass operable i have a 2000' expedition w/ 2- re audio xxx15 d2 subs in a 4.0cuft ported enclosure tuned @ 33hz i also used 2 layers of fatmat rattle trap extreme sound dampener on the roof and around the glass it helped alot w/ the rattle so let me know how it goes for you

How did you get the box in? Or how are you going to get it out lol? I figured the window doesnt need to be functional, But the hatch does. Ill def let you know how it goes. Itll help security wise aswell Im thinkn. I do have 5% tint over stock, so that helps aswell. But it seems like you could rip a hatch window open if you really wantd to. So im looking for a strong bond, yet somewhat flexible so the bass doesnt seperate the bond, or crack... Has no one else done this?

Rebuild in progress...

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go to an autoglass shop. they could use urethane to glue it for you; as long as they prep the rubber seal and the glass, it should bond pretty well. OR they could get rid of the rubber seal and use a really tall bead of glue. go straight from glass to metal, and probably make a better bond. Thats IF they will do it for you; there won't be any warranty, and they'll probably charge you something for doing it....but it would probably be your best bet to hold it closed but still have enough flex and cushion for the glass to move with the vehicle without busting.

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I use black urethane on my explorer´s hatch and works awesome, it was the only way to stop all the problems i had!

I´m the SPL Gains topic creator!! wanna get louder?? check this: SPL Gains. Panamenian 2009 & 2010 & 2014 Bass Race 149.9 Champion!

2 15" subs and a 2K wired at 1 ohm, http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167788-fecupe2001-2-15s-on-a-2k-video-on-page-3/

8 Massive 15" subs and small power, http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/179296-fecupe2001s-8-15s-4th-order-bandpass-wall/

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I use black urethane on my explorer´s hatch and works awesome, it was the only way to stop all the problems i had!

Did a little more checkn around. This seems like it may be the way to go. And I can use a gun/tool and do it myself... Hopefully 1 tube is enough, Doubt it but $25 a pop seems a little steep

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_window-weld&153;-super-fast-urethane--black-(10-5-fl-oz-)-3m_6012418-p?searchTerm=urethane#fragment-2

Rebuild in progress...

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box went in 1st its a 3 pc enclosure and when seperated fits thru the rear doors with ease but let me know how the sealing of the glass goes for you

if you dont own or drive a customized car/truck/suv you suck lol

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