SnowDrifter Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 D'Amore did a test in frame vs separate wire grounding. The frame won. That's what I did on my car and it works great. So I'd suggest doing that. Since your Durango is build on a frame, I'd drill through the floor and use the frame as one giant ground bar. ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bighossf150 Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 D'Amore did a test in frame vs separate wire grounding. The frame won. That's what I did on my car and it works great. So I'd suggest doing that. Since your Durango is build on a frame, I'd drill through the floor and use the frame as one giant ground bar. I saw that vid and Im still keeping my 3+ and 3- runs front to back but and about to do 2 runs from the alt to the rear batt bank and will probably add 3-4 runs from the bank to the frame, you can never have too much electrical Used to have a loud truck 2009 Corvette Z06, H/C/I, 150 shot, g force tune, 730rwhp/690rwtq 2013 F-150 limited, MPT Tune, leveled on 35"s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALPINE408 Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 I'm a firm believer in doing isolated ground runs. Plus you only have a 200 amp alt. no point in doing 2 runs of positive when 1 run can carry that amount of current. Just make sure you use OFC wire (hides and waits for alpines reply) lol i have bigger fish to fry! D'Amore did a test in frame vs separate wire grounding. The frame won. That's what I did on my car and it works great. So I'd suggest doing that. Since your Durango is build on a frame, I'd drill through the floor and use the frame as one giant ground bar. re watch that vid and HEAR what is being said it works best FOR THAT CAR on that LOW POWER i have tested this in my cars many times and have had up to .5 more volts charging wiring a pos and neg from front to back .5 is a lot but i also run a lot more power i can't remeber the last time i used a small 1000 watt amp to power subs. so i run a pos and neg front to back and also ground to frame its the best way imo Have you ever had your woofers blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 I have 2 positive runs in my car right now. That's it. I put 1 run of negative in my car in addition to the chassis ground to test with and didn't notice a difference. I suppose the only way to know for OPs vehicle will be to test. 2 wires to the back is 2 wires to the back, all he would have to do it switch one of them from pos to neg or vice-versa, so it's not a huge challenge for him, fortunately haha. ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
321slapinbass Posted October 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 thanks for the replies guys. i will be using 1/0 welding cable for this to match the 1/0 welding cable thats already in the car. also i already have 2 1/0 grounds going through the floor and bolted to the frame for my C&D batts in the rear.... so my rear grounds are pretty good. my front battery is also grounded to the fame for the big 3. i will most liikely do what SnowDrifter said and test to see which method works better and comparing the difference between the two. 2000 Dodge Durango Subs - (2) SKAR VVX 15 D2's Box - 7.2 ft^3 @ 33hz, 120 in of port Sub amp - Digital Designs M2 @ .5 ohm Mids + Highs - PRV Audio Mids + Highs amp - Hifonics 2000.4 Headunit - Alpine CDE-100 Equalizer - Clarion EQS746 Batteries - Mopar group 27 + (2) C&D 52ah Wiring - 1/0 BIG 3, (2) runs 1/0 Alternator - Singer 250A 147.79 dB @ 35hz - burp - sealed on dash 147.47 dB @ 35hz - music - sealed on dash YOUTUBE: http://www.youtube.com/user/321slapinBass/videos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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