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Audiopipe AP-15001D Tested for RMS Power Output


WillistonAudioLabs

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Well I had the Incriminator dealer build the box and do the entire install, and it banged, but honestly it wasnt as painful to the ears as this setup is.

This guy did a bunch of clamp tests on various amps, not saying they are accurate, but if you compare the results of the different subs you should have a good comparison

2 big bang planet audio strapped 1 ohm-3759watts not sure ohm reactive ohm load
audiopipe 3k wired at 1 ohm- 2700 @ 1.9 ohms
2 aq2200 strapped 1 ohm- 3560watts not sure reactive load
.
kicker 650.1- 554watts @ 4 ohms had more to go but for basic 1
solid audio 2000 2 channel bridged at 1- 1840 @ 2.2 ohms
audiopipe 1500 wired at 1- 1120 watts @ 2.1 ohms
crunch pzi 3000.1 wire at 1 ohm. 1159 watts @ 2.3 ohm
power bass 4k wired at .66 ohm-3153 watts @ 2.1 ohms.
all these 2 rpm and burp at peak hrz notes. not sure voltage like said rough memory.

Assuming the AQ was rated for 2200 apiece both the AP and AQ fell short of their rated power, roughly by the same margin....In other words if the AQ does rated, like everyone likes to say, then the AP does too, at least that's how I interpret that data... :?

that 4ohm your trying to brag about is coming from a 2ohm stable amp so it's not that big of a deal. if you ran the diamond at 4ohm it was doing like 300w while the audiopipe "should" be doing 1500w. so of course there was a difference. but it doesnt mean shit.

What is up with the condescending tones of everyone on here. Noone's trying to brag. I'm just saying that at 4 ohm (1500 watts) it is as loud as the much more expensive D^ amp was at 1500 watts on a larger sub, in a ported box. I was also trying to relate the ffact that most people are under the misconception that a RE XXX has too weak a motor to use all 2" of Xmax, when, according to this test I am only at roughly what, 1,000 watts or less and am getting over 3" peak to peak.

In other words, I believe it does what it is rated at, and I believe that at 4 ohms I am pushing at least

Anyways, I have seen a few tests on the 1500's, and 3000's and on every one they did rated power, so I decided to get one to puch my '11 RE XXX 15. I have to say that even in a sealed box (I know, ported is better no matter what) at 4 ohms it has more output than my IA DR 18" in a custom ported box on a Diamond Ausdio D6 1500.1, which was in an SUV. Did I mention it is wired at 4 ohms and I am getting over 3" peak to peak excursion?

As far as the sound quality, I'm no expert, but aside from the rattles it sounds as good as any sub / amp combo I've heard, so I guess I can't complain, especially for $280 shipped.

Long story short, it seems strange that there are at least 5 tests done on the AP series amps showing they make clean power at or above the ratings, and then there is this test which shows much worse output, but magically there are no other amps but the two AP's tested for reference.

Anyways, no matter what, I am happy with the amp and sub. It MURDERS the lows and is painful to the ear in the trunk of a BMW 3 series , in a sealed box wired to 4 ohms, stock electrical. Happy as a lark

LOL louder? then YOU did something WRONG....

AP DOES NOT DO RATED. how about you send i to Steve to AD-1...i want to see some hearts get broken. It has been shown that clamping IS NOT ACCCURATE....How did they say it in their thread..something like you might as well use a yardstick to measure output.. Clamping is designed to show DC output, not AC and some shit about phase that is way over my head. But I understand it is not a relaible method. You can clip the fuck out of the output and get bloated results...ALL BS.

1500 clean watts into that sub.

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Actually 100 mph is the same no matter what vehicle you'r in lol. Do you have proof to back up the claim that it hurts the electrical? I certainly don't want that.. I'm pretty sure I'm not clipping..

As someone who drives a Beamer..you should know something about "quality".... just because you might be able to hit 100mph in a geo metro, doesn't mean its the same 100mph as a M3.

hard on your electrical, shitty efficiency, and hurts equipment, clipped power sucks.

Also they have constant noise through the outputs from the FAN....so you will never had a 100% clean signal even if your source was perfect.

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that 4ohm your trying to brag about is coming from a 2ohm stable amp so it's not that big of a deal. if you ran the diamond at 4ohm it was doing like 300w while the audiopipe "should" be doing 1500w. so of course there was a difference. but it doesnt mean shit.

What is up with the condescending tones of everyone on here. Noone's trying to brag. I'm just saying that at 4 ohm (1500 watts) it is as loud as the much more expensive D^ amp was at 1500 watts on a larger sub, in a ported box. I was also trying to relate the ffact that most people are under the misconception that a RE XXX has too weak a motor to use all 2" of Xmax, when, according to this test I am only at roughly what, 1,000 watts or less and am getting over 3" peak to peak.

In other words, I believe it does what it is rated at, and I believe that at 4 ohms I am pushing at least 1500 clean watts into that sub.

you said both amps where at 4 ohms didn't you? not sure is why im asking if yes you where severely under-powering the other setup of course you are louder now

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Personally I think the trend is upheld mostly by those who spent way more on their amps and are trying to justify it in their minds.

bimmer* :P

you seem to have it all backwards... you make fun of some of us for having an older car in EXCELLENT condition because we take care of it. Then you make fun of us again because we like to put GOOD equipment into our cars... since when was this forum about what kind of car you drive??? I could give 2 shits what kind of car or how old it is. Stop trying to get off topic with your "my car is better than yours" bullshit. This is where you have it backwards. Some of us drive old cars with expensive equipment, yes... you seems to enjoy driving a more expensive car with shit equipment.

There seems to be a constant trend of people saying that audiopipe is dirty power and poor quality, but time and time again you seem to think otherwise for some reason.

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Or someone who cheaped out and is trying to convince himself that its ok.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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D6 1500.1 was wired correctly, 1500 watts. AP wired at 4 ohms, 1500 watts (AQ specifies 1800-2K @ 4 ohms, but even if this was true I doubt I'd get that on my stock electrical.

that 4ohm your trying to brag about is coming from a 2ohm stable amp so it's not that big of a deal. if you ran the diamond at 4ohm it was doing like 300w while the audiopipe "should" be doing 1500w. so of course there was a difference. but it doesnt mean shit.

What is up with the condescending tones of everyone on here. Noone's trying to brag. I'm just saying that at 4 ohm (1500 watts) it is as loud as the much more expensive D^ amp was at 1500 watts on a larger sub, in a ported box. I was also trying to relate the ffact that most people are under the misconception that a RE XXX has too weak a motor to use all 2" of Xmax, when, according to this test I am only at roughly what, 1,000 watts or less and am getting over 3" peak to peak.

In other words, I believe it does what it is rated at, and I believe that at 4 ohms I am pushing at least 1500 clean watts into that sub.

you said both amps where at 4 ohms didn't you? not sure is why im asking if yes you where severely under-powering the other setup of course you are louder now

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No 100mph is not the same in any vehicle. 100mph is going to be killer on a metro, and on a bmw it'll be like sitting in a lounge chair with a drink and 5 scantily clad women in front of you for your choosing. You own a bmw you should know this. Hell 100mph fells way different in my wifes accord than my fixed up civic. Your response is invalid.

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D6 1500.1 was wired correctly, 1500 watts. AP wired at 4 ohms, 1500 watts (AQ specifies 1800-2K @ 4 ohms, but even if this was true I doubt I'd get that on my stock electrical.

that 4ohm your trying to brag about is coming from a 2ohm stable amp so it's not that big of a deal. if you ran the diamond at 4ohm it was doing like 300w while the audiopipe "should" be doing 1500w. so of course there was a difference. but it doesnt mean shit.

What is up with the condescending tones of everyone on here. Noone's trying to brag. I'm just saying that at 4 ohm (1500 watts) it is as loud as the much more expensive D^ amp was at 1500 watts on a larger sub, in a ported box. I was also trying to relate the ffact that most people are under the misconception that a RE XXX has too weak a motor to use all 2" of Xmax, when, according to this test I am only at roughly what, 1,000 watts or less and am getting over 3" peak to peak.

In other words, I believe it does what it is rated at, and I believe that at 4 ohms I am pushing at least 1500 clean watts into that sub.

you said both amps where at 4 ohms didn't you? not sure is why im asking if yes you where severely under-powering the other setup of course you are louder now

wired corectly um ok correctly can be 4 ohms too...... so it was at 1ohms ok someone did something seriously wrong then if your louder now

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D6 1500.1 was wired correctly, 1500 watts. AP wired at 4 ohms, 1500 watts (AQ specifies 1800-2K @ 4 ohms, but even if this was true I doubt I'd get that on my stock electrical.

that 4ohm your trying to brag about is coming from a 2ohm stable amp so it's not that big of a deal. if you ran the diamond at 4ohm it was doing like 300w while the audiopipe "should" be doing 1500w. so of course there was a difference. but it doesnt mean shit.

What is up with the condescending tones of everyone on here. Noone's trying to brag. I'm just saying that at 4 ohm (1500 watts) it is as loud as the much more expensive D^ amp was at 1500 watts on a larger sub, in a ported box. I was also trying to relate the ffact that most people are under the misconception that a RE XXX has too weak a motor to use all 2" of Xmax, when, according to this test I am only at roughly what, 1,000 watts or less and am getting over 3" peak to peak.

In other words, I believe it does what it is rated at, and I believe that at 4 ohms I am pushing at least 1500 clean watts into that sub.

you said both amps where at 4 ohms didn't you? not sure is why im asking if yes you where severely under-powering the other setup of course you are louder now

But you think you'd get the 1500 out of your stock electrical? Or the 2200 your 3000.1 supposedly puts out? Why is that?

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No 100mph is not the same in any vehicle. 100mph is going to be killer on a metro, and on a bmw it'll be like sitting in a lounge chair with a drink and 5 scantily clad women in front of you for your choosing. You own a bmw you should know this. Hell 100mph fells way different in my wifes accord than my fixed up civic. Your response is invalid.

LOL ok you win my response is invalid

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