ss xxx 18 help for 150db

[SCS_Audio]

Yea walls are for over 160

You can get to 150 without a wall. With that much power, you should be able to do it out of a trunk too. Its all in the box though!!

[TeamHT]

I would put the deadener on the cabin side of the rear deck when doing a seal off and not the trunk side, that was why I was classifying it as part of the cabin. But yea were saying the same thing i think haha.

As for the wire, what I am saying is that at 250 amps of draw or less through a single wire its almost the same. If you go up to 500 amps.....would you rather pull all 500 amps through one single run of OFC 1/0 or 250 amps a piece through 2 runs of CCA 1/0 with the cost of the two being about equal. If you only have room for a single run and you are pulling very high current, I agree OFC 100%. I was just very surprised to see how close the CCA performance was to that of the OFC. Will try to retest and pull some more current!!!

I think we are, lol.

I've always used OFC as a personal preference for electrical overkill...but will admit. The price difference is ridiculous! I plan on pulling a max 1200 amps, but at 6 runs positive and 6 runs negative, would OFC provide that drastic difference in performance to warrant its 600% cost difference? Hmmm

[Nao]

Single 18" from the trunk is going to need a little bit more than just hopes and testing. I almost want to assume the OP isn't building a burp box and with 5600 watts on tap you have a good start. Here's what I would do.

Beef the electrical up to supply ample, get rid of the 18", and seal off the trunk with two 15"s. Single port, deaden the trunk, test, tune, and hit a 50.

Why would he deaden the trunk if its sealed off?

You mean deaden the rear deck and the entrance to the trunk where the box is facing? Don't waste $$$ on deadener in the trunk where the bass will not even make it to.

he didnt say anything about deadening

it will be easier to achieve 150 if you wall your car

I thought about a wall cause the guy i got the sub from over here does had 2 ss xxx 18s in a silverado each on a ss xxx 6500 and he did 155 on music and 161.1 burp sealed he had a removable port though for burps but that was impressive to me he's currently the loud thing of here or was before i got one of the subs, but getting back i can't do a wall im a family guy i'm just trying to work with what i have

And its a work in progress i think i probably need to get my personal term lab lik e you guys are saying and play with it a lil cause the say guy that i got the sub from is one of the few over here that owns one and he bitches about it if you try ask to use it or test

[SCS_Audio]

I would put the deadener on the cabin side of the rear deck when doing a seal off and not the trunk side, that was why I was classifying it as part of the cabin. But yea were saying the same thing i think haha.

As for the wire, what I am saying is that at 250 amps of draw or less through a single wire its almost the same. If you go up to 500 amps.....would you rather pull all 500 amps through one single run of OFC 1/0 or 250 amps a piece through 2 runs of CCA 1/0 with the cost of the two being about equal. If you only have room for a single run and you are pulling very high current, I agree OFC 100%. I was just very surprised to see how close the CCA performance was to that of the OFC. Will try to retest and pull some more current!!!

I think we are, lol.

I've always used OFC as a personal preference for electrical overkill...but will admit. The price difference is ridiculous! I plan on pulling a max 1200 amps, but at 6 runs positive and 6 runs negative, would OFC provide that drastic difference in performance to warrant its 600% cost difference? Hmmm

Now that the db Drag season is over for now, we have some tests and videos we want to make. As soon as we retest the CCA vs OFC I will upload it and let you see. I was sort of shocked how close they were myself when we tested. Possibly try to throw some unregulated VFL amps in there but I doubt we can get the current draw out of them that we can with the JL 1000's.

At that much wire (and cost) you could save a bunch of $$$ with CCA even if you ran a couple extra runs to make up for the slightly higher resistance per run.

[SCS_Audio]

Just for reference the OFC we were using was Stinger and the CCA is the American Bass Megaflex. Strand counts are similar on both.

[Nao]

Haha it happens.

Yea he will probably need some dampener in the cabin to get there although it depends on the car and frequency. It may or may not help the SPL number, but it will sound wayyy better with no rattles and just might hold your car from falling apart!!!

Rear firing into the trunk lid its worth a couple db!!! Not as much when sealed off.

I agree, 2 15's will have more cone area and should get louder if he can fit 2 of them in his opening and have enough room left over for port.

You shouldn't need a wall for a 150, a 160 yes, but there are plenty of people doing 150s without walls. It just takes a lot of time and effort, but then again so does a wall haha.

Yea i agree 2 15's would have definitely made this task slightly easier and where i live only dealers here are orion, soundstream, powerbass and audiopipe i was getting 2 hcca 15s but they were sold out when i had the money and took months so they say to get more, and the guy that did 161.1 with the 2 ss xxx 18s was now selling them i was already impressed with them so i got that instead and im stuck with it cause no one here really spending that sort of money on a sub with i spent $850. and even if i got it sold i like DD subs and FI it well almost cost a life of a small child to bring it in and clear it thru our customs department so pretty got to make it work with this one hopefully with enough testing tuning anf the right equipment

[SCS_Audio]

That sucks he doesn't let you use it!!!

Hell I have met people in mall parking lots to let them test with ours lol!!!

[Nao]

Also I was kina trying to choose between kinetik and xs power batteries i know for a fact xs power is better but what i trying to decide on is if its best to got with their batteries and a vcm or their 12 volt batteries what really the difference other that voltage when it comes to their batteries cause im think 14 v batteries should be better right? Along with a H/O Alt and a vcm voltage drop shouldn't be that bad...cause i was thinkin mayb i would need less batteries if i get the 14v instead of 12v could some shed some light to help

[Nao]

That sucks he doesn't let you use it!!!

Hell I have met people in mall parking lots to let them test with ours lol!!!

Over here some ppl love to be on top and if nt letting me use it is his way of keeping me down even though I'll never come close to his score with my one sub and how its setup bt it is what it is

[SCS_Audio]

I dont know that XS Power is "better" than Kinetik for a fact. Loudest vehicle in the world runs Kinetik (Craig Butler hitting a 181 db!!!)

I have yet to see any very detailed and unbiased tests of the top battery manufactures and who is better. If I saw a head to head test comparing one battery to another in a real world situation measuring real world voltage and current draw from a system, then maybe I would believe it. Until then I will say all the AGM batteries are the same.

I only have personal experience with XS D3100 and Shuriken BT20's and they both seem great. They are not the same battery so I can not do any conclusive tests with them though. I think if you stick with one of those 3 brands you will be fine.

Im not sure if you want to go to a 14 volt system though for your daily driver. They charge at 16 volts or higher and im not sure if the rest of your car will like that. May want to ask around in the electrical section if anyone has advice about that.