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Found 81 results

  1. Alright so finally got around to "finishing" a build in one of my vehicles haha. I say "finishing" because it's as close to done without having the new alternator or battery racks built but it's sooo close lol. "Fighter Jet" reasoning will be shown through pictures, hopefully you get the meaning haha. Here are the stats: 2000 Ford Explorer Limited 5.0 AWD Pioneer 80PRS Custom switch/gauge panel SHCA RCAs, fuse holders, ring terminals, heat shrink SHCA Green and Black 1/0 DC AUDIO 5K DC AUDIO 10k 4- Soundqubed HDC3 10s 4 - 18" DC Audio Lvl 6 18s, full Carbon fiber option XSPOWER Batteries SINGER ALTERNATORS Anyone want to see some pictures?
  2. dc audio

    Hey guys and gals. I need to order a recone kit for my dc level 6 18 m4 I really liked the look of the carbon fiber cone and dust cap till I saw the price. Real shocker right. Any rate what do you all think of the carbon fiber cone for the extra $320.00 plus $40.00 for the carbon dust cap. I am sure it will be more stiff but is it worth the extra. Thanks in advance.
  3. Hi, First let me introduce myself. Im 26 years old, live in the Netherlands and have been fascinated by car audio since my first audio system. English isnt my native language so i hope u guys dont mind typo's or some weird grammer Back when i was 18 it started with a simple €200 subwoofer set and thats when the addiction started. Since then ive had multiple system, Re xxx v3, 2 Kicker l7 15's, kicker solo x 18, Digital designs 3510, Ascendant audio chaos 15 and a Ascendant audio mayhem 18. Reading this is probably but forgot a few but you'll get the point. A few weeks ago i started building on a new project. 2 Fi audio team 18's Digital Designs M4a 11 Wing ESL 60-12X Sound Magus 160.4 4 Sp audio 6MM mids 2 SP tw 15 tweets 3/0 from the alt to batteries in the back 1/0 for the rest of the install As is said i already started building so i'll also post some pics what ive done so far. I posted my build log on a dutch ford focus forum but i thought it'll also be nice to post it out here. Maybe get some feedback and show off a build from the Netherlands. Tweeters Door pods
  4. Hello there guys, the tittle is pretty much my question.. i'm upgrading next month and i am stuck between the two subs. since i am across the pond in the UK, we really have only 1 legit distributor of sundown audio(Wayne from Hz Audio UK), the rest are a joke, with old stock, and overpriced.. I first saw the ZV5 for 850 English pesos,and was absolutely in love, but then i saw the NSV3 for 10 English pesos cheaper across the range, and that's when i got lost, isn't the NSV3 better? if so then, why is it cheaper?and there seems to be no thread on ZV5 vs NSV3 whatsoever. i'm probably going to have either a 15 or 18, not sure yet! the box will be slot ported ~6-7.5cu.ft tuned between ~25-30hz The NSV3 should theoretically be better? its weirdly got a wider but shorter magnet,yet stands taller than the ZV5, and i heard they both share the same VC and cone assembly. i'm planning to put 5-8k regardless of which sub, my priority is lows and SQ What are your thoughts ? really appreciate any help
  5. Post your real or dream audio system below, I just wanna know what the community has. My real audio system--- 2 DC level 4 15's Custom box 3 4" aeroports 7 cubic ft tuned @30 2 Sundown sae1500D Alpine CDE-143BT 2 Alpine type r 6.5 componets 4 Crescendo PWX pro 6.5 2 Alpine Type r tweets 2 Alpine mrx-m110 Murdermat in all doors/back wall Skyhigh 0/1 awg runs Mechman 240A alt Skyhigh 18awg to door speakers JL rca's 2 XS d1600 My dream system--- 4 DC level 6 15's Walled box tuned @30 All Skyhigh/Certified Basshead wire 2 DC 10.0k 4 Crescendo neo 8" 6 Crescendo neo 6.5" 4 Crescendo ft1 DC amp/amps to power speakers 2 mechman 370A alts 4 XS lithium batteries Murdermat double layered everywhere custom dash If only I had the money/means for my dream system lol
  6. Well. I have a 2000 GMC Sierra SLT Ext cab. No pictures right now. Just got off work. Today is my birthday... Right now I have a AudioPipe 3000.1 The older one with the pipes on the front. 1ohm. Bought it for $280 at a pawn shop in Kalamazoo, Mi. As of Right now I have 2 Kicker Comps in a box I made. With my own 2 hands.. lol.. I found 2 AudioQue now known as soundqubed 18's for $250 guess What I got ripped off. Blown. So now going to order recone kits. Which I have the money on a card. Need better details on the subs to get the right recone kit. Anyways what I need from you guys is to get some box dimensions. Wall? or just a ported box? This is where I am stuck. I need the best system in the small town I live in. I like low bass. Maybe like 29-30 hz? box on the site are for 35hz this is not low enough. No Alt. No batteries Yet..
  7. So Im currently waiting for my new sub to come in the mail but haven't built the box yet. I ordered an FI Team 18 and it will be on 2 CAB1600.1's. On my last build in this 09 corolla I did a sundown x 18 sub up and port to the passenger side and it seemed to be the loudest compared to port front or back. My plan for the team 18 is sub front and port to passenger side. Has anyone tried this and do you think it will be different from sub up & port to the side?? any info will help I plan to start cutting the birch on Monday. Or should I do port and sub front and seal it off. I don't always have the seat down because of car seats lol.
  8. Hello bass addicts, my preview project was stopped, I'm working on a new one, it will simply be: 2 SP4 18" in a kind of 6th order wall 1 DC 9.0k connected @0.35 4 PC4000 batteries (4000A 5s discharge, 115Ah..) Pioneer 80prs headunit And for the doors well see later, maybe some APS spanish products (quality hard hitting showcar components) And the car, a VW Passat break born in 1985 Pictures are being uploaded, I'll post them later Hope you will enjoy the build !
  9. Hello i am making a 18" sub using a tc9 motor and a basket and recone from fixmyspeaker.com and i need some help making a box, i have a 2005 Chevrolet equinox, and a Hifonics Brutus BRX1100.1D. any advice is appreciated
  10. Ok , Im going to put this out there so please don't make fun of me. I completely gutted the trunk of my Challenger sound deadened all spaces, relocated factory battery and fuse box. Now here it comes THE PLAN, I measured all areas very carefully and what im thinking is this, resin and fiberglass the entire spare tire area I was thinking probably 4 layers would do it. that area is aprox 3 cu ft. install a 3/4 inch board across the entire floor, leaving a sealed 3 cuft space. Now install the 18" sub inverted. Now build above that area the ported chamber @ 6cubes net after all displacements 2 8" aeroports venting into cabin via rear deck. I know its crazy, but that's what we do. I welcome all comments and sugestions.
  11. Here's my box design so far for a SoundQubed HDC3 18" http://imgur.com/a/UyRxa Box Specs: 20.75H x 35W x 21.5D. Displacements used are .23 (Sub) and .05 (Dowel rod). 5.95 Cubic Feet @ 30.26 (Cubic feet might be slightly higher due to window). This also takes into account 3 baffles and port outside of the box. Port Specs: 19" total length 7.920" Inside diameter .240" thickness, PVC 12" outside flare diameter 49.24 square inches port area. Still deciding on an amplifier, should be anywhere from 1750-2250W. 1/0 OFC Big Three. 150 amp stock alt. XS Power battery to come later. I still might go slightly larger on the box, every 1" wider gives it .20 cubic feet to net. I know people use 45s in slot ports to smooth out air flow but should they be used in aero port boxes? If so should I just use a 45 for the corner next to the port or all 4 corners? Thanks guys!
  12. Hello everyone! Oh yeah, I decided to go ahead and go big, and my brand new Soundqubed HDC4 18" just came in today, and since it is the first piece to my new build, i felt it necessary to begin my build log. If anyone has seen my mustang's build, this will be about a million times slower, due to both the much higher budget(; and the fact that the vehicle this is going in is still on it's way lol(hopefully a 08 suburban/tahoe model). But feeling this beast in my hands has me so damn pumped to begin, and this time around i'll have my father's shop to be working in, plus everything i've learned in my first build! So please as always give me any opinions that you believe will make this better, I always could use advice! Thank you everyone for the support! Here's the beast:
  13. Hi everyone, I finally joined after a long time lurking this forum. I recently decided to step up my bass game from the two 12’s I’ve had for a while. I’ve had a system in every vehicle I've owned and was the one always doing installs for friends in high school and teaching them how to install. I've always wanted to do a serious build, so I decided one day I’d sell my Subaru for an S10 and upgrade my system properly. So I bought a 99 Sonoma ZQ8 ext cab this past november and spent the spring fixing up the main issues that needed to be done before spending money on the system. I had a blown double cardan joint that I replaced with a rear conversion shaft and blown shocks that were replaced with a Belltech 2/2 drop kit (+ZQ8 = 3.5"/3.5” total). I recently swapped in a Mechman 270A alternator that I got used for $150 to power the upgrades I’m doing to my stereo. Earlier this week I went up to the only SPL shop I could find in my area and ordered an 18” Skar ZVX v2 (they said it was better than the Sundown X I was looking at and I trust them since they are successful SPL competitors). I also have 100 sq. ft. of GTmat for dampening, but will only be doing the floor/roof/backwall because I plan to replace the rusty doors next summer when doing bodywork. I will probably get a Skar SK1500d before heading back to school in september if I can sell my current stereo in time. I've gotten rusty with installations after not doing many in the past few years, so I'm open to suggestions. This was what my truck looked like... until a "friend" backed up into the bed with his new F150, this is my damage. This is his damage, he was able to rub most of it off and is now being quite difficult in helping with the repair(long story)... So this is what it looks like now. I intend on doing the bodywork next summer, but I'm still unsure of what direction the build will go in (I will probably clean up the panel before going back to school). I installed the Mechman 270a alternator and Big 4 with 1/0awg copper welding cable. It took a while to get all the right parts, mainly the belt. Also I use SnapChat a lot, so that will explain the text on most of the pictures. I got this alt on Kijiji for $150. It was from a 2006 Tahoe, but for some reason he got one that didn't have the proper PCM hook-up and was causing charging issues. I saw the one wire and similar plug and figured it should work, luckily it did. It was tough to fit the four 1/0 grounds and original ground, even with extended posts. A dual battery upgrade is on the list. Since I couldn't find it anywhere, the proper belt for a large case Mechman alt on a 4.3L is the Goodyear Gatorback 4060960. Unfortunately the one I bought had a different belt (taught me to verify the part numbers!) inside, a 4060100 if I recall, which was 4 inches too long. I got it sorted out after waiting a few days for it to arrive. Either way, I saved about $500 getting it used. If it craps out, I'll try to send it back to Mechman to be refurbished with a 6-phase stator (hopefully will last longer than my last 2 stock alts). I also picked up a raw LED voltmeter for $6, I think it's for Arduino projects. I like it, but I just got to find a proper wire for it to read off, the factory voltmeter wire was killing the battery on start-up.
  14. 152.9 on 2200 watts.
  15. tuned to 33hz. its going into my bedroom for now
  16. So I built a monster enclosure, A single Sundown ZV4 18. 3cubes sealed, 9ish ported with all displacements 168 sqinches port area .. Was wondering if you guys think that I have way to much port area. It sounds great but I feel ive got a little more there. I did a 150 flat on a audio control spl meter knowing that it is definetley not as accurate as a term lab.
  17. This was last years build, don't have a build log for it so here it is. 1st build in it was a Sundown 15" in a 6th order.
  18. I have a 2009 Ford focus and I currently run 2 kicker L3 15's on a RF 750.1. They hit but it is a temporary setup until i get my new system. I am looking to get a Sundown Audio Zv.4 18 in the trunk. I figured out that my i can get about 7 cu ft after displacement of the sub and the 5'' slot port tuned to 32 hz.
  19. I was looking to get a sundown zv.4 18 in my 2009 ford focus. I figured out that after the displacement of the woofer and the port that I would have around 7 Cu. Ft. of usable air space. the port would be 5'' wide and tuned to 32 hz. the dimensions of the box are 40 wide, 20 tall, and 22 deep. For my amplifier, i was thinking of using an audiopipe 3000.1. I know that sundown subwoofers can take a decent amount more power than what they are rated, but I am a little concerned that this might be too much power. I think the enclosure will work well with this subwoofer but I wanted to try to get a second opinion on the forum. Let me know what you think or if there is any suggestions that would make this build even better. Thanks.
  20. Whats up everybody! This is my first thread on here and I figured I should make it a good one. lol So I'm makin it my build thread of my new project. Some of you may have seen my Ranger on youtube. http://www.youtube.c...ettrickscustoms Bunch of cool stuff on there ranger and otherwise much of comin. So anyway I dont take many pics when we work just vid. heres the system I had and a distance test.
  21. Hello, I would like someone to take a look at my design before i build it. By my calculations the box is ~5.96Cuft net, with 117sq inch of port @~39hz. The sub will be powered by two B2 Audio Mono MK2 strapped at 2 ohm daily (0.5 for comps). The real question is about the flares on the port. How will they affect tuning?
  22. I decided to run my 2 zv418s free air to make sure there all good before I start to build. Of course both v/c s are separated. So I sent them in to recone. decided to go with one. Makes more sense due to size and such. im going to go 4 cubes sealed and 12 ported 170 sqinches of port area tuning @ 40 hz. What do you guys think?
  23. So im doing a trunk build on my caddy and i was wondering about ports. i was thinking 4.1 sealed and 7 cubes ported. The graph it made in winisd seemed pretty good so i might go for it. Of course i have the best and worst car to do a build, cant fold the seat down so i need to cut holes in my rear deck for the port, so the question is should i do a regular rectangle port / slot port or areo port / pvc tubes? and how much port area? i'll provide some pictures for better understanding what im going to do. the last one is the rear view, since im doing a slanted baffle to make the sp4's fit. tell me if im missing anything that would help.