Jump to content
Second Skin Audio

18" Subs That Can Handle Over 6000watts RMS


Recommended Posts

I'm not buying for a couple of months, so I will hopefully see what the new SMDs will have in store for us before making a purchase. I want to get my amps and all my electrical in order before buying the subs.

2006 Cadillac Escalade

2/3 drop on 28" wheels

Two RE SX 18" subs

RF T2500-1bdCP amp, 3531watts on birthsheet

Custom carbon fiber sub box

EVERYTHING else is stock, for now

149.4 @ 37hz, Termlab, dash, open window on two AQ3 18s all stock electrical, wired to .25 ohm on a RF T2500

148.8 @ 36hz, Termlab, dash, open window on one AQ3 18 all stock electrical, wired to .5 ohm on a RF T2500

147.8 @ 38hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on two RE SX 18s

146.4 @ 36hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on one RE SX 18

Link to my hack-built, stupid, carbon fiber wasting project.... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/149946-carbon-fiber-box-update-1494db-37hz-on-tl/

http://gifsoup.com/NDM3MTc1MQ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, so many replies about "herp a derp 1 sub" and "hows yous gonna put 15's in da box fo 18's?" and "i can't read, why you do stuff and other derp?"

And poor Captian is siiting at his computer looking like this

angry-desk-flip.png

I'm going to say from what i have read, you won't be happy with the LVL 6, and should just wait for the new SMD's. If they aren't "rated" at at least 6k then pick one of those two and don't look back. You may just have to run them at over rated power regardless.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm surprised the obvious answer hadn't been made here. A sub was designed to take X amount of Watts of power. Granted most of these higher power handling subs will take more than rated. The biggest question I have is this:

Why are you wanting to run double the RMS to a sub? You realize the gain on a Termlab will likely be minimal right? Unless you ARE strictly burping or competing, what's the need to run double the power a sub can realistically USE? If its just to say,"Hey I run 6000W to a sub designed to be used for 3500" then that's just plain silly.

On a side note, I didn't intend to sound disrespectful, you know who I am. I was very supportive of your build when not many others were. Iove to see your work and install.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I say DC lv 6 with carbon fiber cone, it'll match the box

2003 Kia Sorento

Team Subsonic Lows
Team Bassin' on a Budget


2016 Rebuild Under Construction

Best score: 150.2 at 40hz (3k, 2 Custom HDC3 15's) Usaci style(door open, in the kick)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm surprised the obvious answer hadn't been made here. A sub was designed to take X amount of Watts of power. Granted most of these higher power handling subs will take more than rated. The biggest question I have is this:

Why are you wanting to run double the RMS to a sub? You realize the gain on a Termlab will likely be minimal right? Unless you ARE strictly burping or competing, what's the need to run double the power a sub can realistically USE? If its just to say,"Hey I run 6000W to a sub designed to be used for 3500" then that's just plain silly.

On a side note, I didn't intend to sound disrespectful, you know who I am. I was very supportive of your build when not many others were. Iove to see your work and install.

I get you man. You misunderstood my desire here. I'm not looking to throw 6000 watts at a 3500 watt sub. I'm looking for subs designed to run on 6000 watts. I don't care what the rating is as long as it can handle that kind of power regularly. I'm not looking for bragging rights, I'm looking for reliability under high power.

2006 Cadillac Escalade

2/3 drop on 28" wheels

Two RE SX 18" subs

RF T2500-1bdCP amp, 3531watts on birthsheet

Custom carbon fiber sub box

EVERYTHING else is stock, for now

149.4 @ 37hz, Termlab, dash, open window on two AQ3 18s all stock electrical, wired to .25 ohm on a RF T2500

148.8 @ 36hz, Termlab, dash, open window on one AQ3 18 all stock electrical, wired to .5 ohm on a RF T2500

147.8 @ 38hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on two RE SX 18s

146.4 @ 36hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on one RE SX 18

Link to my hack-built, stupid, carbon fiber wasting project.... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/149946-carbon-fiber-box-update-1494db-37hz-on-tl/

http://gifsoup.com/NDM3MTc1MQ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just RE read more of what you wrote, sorry for misunderstanding on my part. I think the honest simple answer is NOTHING is really rated at that type of power. Plenty of subs WILL handle the power. The question is again, WHY want to run THAT kind of power up a sub? A 3500W sub getting 3500-4500 CLEAN watts won't get any louder on more power. It will just get HOTTER.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I say DC lv 6 with carbon fiber cone, it'll match the box

That's a good fuckin idea!

I've gotten a blowjob and picked up my iphone behind her back to see what email notification I got from smd before

Link to comment
Share on other sites

x2 On the carbon fiber DC lvl 6 idea.

1996 GMC Sonoma
Four Fi BTL Neo 18's In 2:1 6th Order Bandpass
2 Ampere 5k's @ .5

TEAM FI
TEAM #LITHIUMCANTDEMO

 

On 10/20/2013 at 0:37 AM, KillaCam said:

Fucking with a Prius driver is like making fun of a disabled kid. Pussies.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I go DC, it WILL be the CF cone. Already got the price quote on it from CJ.

2006 Cadillac Escalade

2/3 drop on 28" wheels

Two RE SX 18" subs

RF T2500-1bdCP amp, 3531watts on birthsheet

Custom carbon fiber sub box

EVERYTHING else is stock, for now

149.4 @ 37hz, Termlab, dash, open window on two AQ3 18s all stock electrical, wired to .25 ohm on a RF T2500

148.8 @ 36hz, Termlab, dash, open window on one AQ3 18 all stock electrical, wired to .5 ohm on a RF T2500

147.8 @ 38hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on two RE SX 18s

146.4 @ 36hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on one RE SX 18

Link to my hack-built, stupid, carbon fiber wasting project.... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/149946-carbon-fiber-box-update-1494db-37hz-on-tl/

http://gifsoup.com/NDM3MTc1MQ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just RE read more of what you wrote, sorry for misunderstanding on my part. I think the honest simple answer is NOTHING is really rated at that type of power. Plenty of subs WILL handle the power. The question is again, WHY want to run THAT kind of power up a sub? A 3500W sub getting 3500-4500 CLEAN watts won't get any louder on more power. It will just get HOTTER.

I agree.

Also another reason why nobody is going to rate a sub that high for 1. a warranty purposes as already stated, and 2. People will think they cannot buy the sub if they don't have the RMS power to throw at it. Just about any 4" coil is going to take nearly the same power, some have a little better cooling but not by much. Most 4" coil subs have nearly completely exposed coils and formers.

Lastly, your not going to get 6k out of your amps so why are you looking for a 6k rms rating? Best case 5k, and I'd be surprised if you ever got that even in the best conditions. 4 3100s are not going to support 10k like you think they will, trust me, it's sad.

Just get one of the subs that you can either get for the best price, support the company of your liking, however you want to look at it. In the end they will all meet your power requirement if you treat them nice.

06 Police TahoeHU- Pioneer 80prsAmp- Crossfire 8kSub- 4 15" Crossfire xs v2sWire- 1/0 Knu/AudiotechnixAlt- 3 Mechman SMD 340sBatts- 6 XS Power 3100s, 2400

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1495 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...