Jump to content

Polk MM6501 mid bass (weird noise) VIDEO inside


Swordlordboy1234

Recommended Posts

Posted

SOOOOOO, yeah this noise is coming from my 1 driver and not the other. video is pretty explanatory. but ill type a few things here so people dont ask.

These drivers were never clipped or over driven. My max volume with zero distortion by DD1 at -0 db tone for both bass and 1k are 60/62. My gains are set with -5 DB and my EQ is flat, except in 3.5k zone where i bumped it down to cut down some harshness. in other words nothing on the EQ is boosted, only lowered. this driver made this noise from day 1, but i always assumed it was rattle because i went 3 months with zero deadener in my doors.

Deadener made a huge difference btw. More deadener to come.

And the noise is almost un noticable below 56/60. hmmm. Anyone?

My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee

My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37

My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/

2016 Mazda 6 Touring

JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction

B2 prototype DSP 6to8

B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set

2 B2 Class H quattro's

1 B2 Zero.5R @.5

2 B2 HNv3 12 d2

B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk

Northstar Group 35 under the hood

100ft 2/0 welding cable

30ft 4ga welding cable

20ft 8ga welding cable

All stinger OFC speaker wire

Soundrive custom RCA's

Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?

Posted

Sounds like the surround has separated from the basket or the cone, the surround may even have split causing the same noise.

Polk and jbl use the same cones and surrounds and have had the surrounds on both split in the corners, polks were on the basket side and the jbl did it on the cone side. It seems like the surrounds on those are a weak point, and if you have no subs and play the full range you risk over excursion and tearing the surround. With those speakers you'll want to high pass them @80hz to keep from over excursion and tearing the surround.

01 Ford focus ZX3

Pioneer AVH-X491BHS

PPI PC 4800.2

Morel Maximo 6.5" x2

Posted

They are on high pass at 100 hz on the amp cross over and again at 100 hz on the head unit. So if I have a separated surround...... What do I need to do?

My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee

My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37

My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/

2016 Mazda 6 Touring

JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction

B2 prototype DSP 6to8

B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set

2 B2 Class H quattro's

1 B2 Zero.5R @.5

2 B2 HNv3 12 d2

B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk

Northstar Group 35 under the hood

100ft 2/0 welding cable

30ft 4ga welding cable

20ft 8ga welding cable

All stinger OFC speaker wire

Soundrive custom RCA's

Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?

Posted

And I visually inspected the spider and top of the surround and couldn't see damage, not saying your wrong though

My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee

My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37

My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/

2016 Mazda 6 Touring

JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction

B2 prototype DSP 6to8

B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set

2 B2 Class H quattro's

1 B2 Zero.5R @.5

2 B2 HNv3 12 d2

B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk

Northstar Group 35 under the hood

100ft 2/0 welding cable

30ft 4ga welding cable

20ft 8ga welding cable

All stinger OFC speaker wire

Soundrive custom RCA's

Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?

Posted

The buzzing sound, sounds as if the surround is separated from the basket or cone, cause i have had both polk and jbl's do the same thing.

Now it is also possible that your buzzing could be from the speaker basket not securely attached the door or no gasket material used to prevent any buzzing between the door and speaker basket. I like to use MDF rings to attach to the door and then attach the speaker to that, it prevents any kind of transfer from the speaker to the door and stops it from buzzing or rattling.

01 Ford focus ZX3

Pioneer AVH-X491BHS

PPI PC 4800.2

Morel Maximo 6.5" x2

Posted

I hoped that you were right with your second statement but they have foam baffles between them and the metal and there is deadener out the ying yang in, on, and around my door. I also have a deflex pad mounted behind the mid drivers to try to get rid of back waves. The sound is not due to contact with an outside object. That I am 100% sure of, an regret to say that is is something with the speaker. I'm just trying to find out ...

1) exactly what it is.

2) solutions with out sending back to Polk

3) solutions with sending back to Polk

My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee

My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37

My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/

2016 Mazda 6 Touring

JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction

B2 prototype DSP 6to8

B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set

2 B2 Class H quattro's

1 B2 Zero.5R @.5

2 B2 HNv3 12 d2

B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk

Northstar Group 35 under the hood

100ft 2/0 welding cable

30ft 4ga welding cable

20ft 8ga welding cable

All stinger OFC speaker wire

Soundrive custom RCA's

Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?

Posted

I would say replace the drivers with something that can handle what you are throwing at it ...

Because if it tears up once, guess what can happen again ???

Just my suggestion ...

Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co 

Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? 

SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado   

"The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually"   

Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet)

Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch                         

Posted

That's a good suggestion aswell. I'm curious what I'm actually giving them. They are 2.7 ohm final imp to my amp. And my 600-4 gives out 124 rms per chan at 4ohms on its birth sheet. I would hate to have to get rid of them, I love the way the other door sounds. And that door sounds just as amazing as long as it doesn't have a 100hz note LOL

My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee

My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37

My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/

2016 Mazda 6 Touring

JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction

B2 prototype DSP 6to8

B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set

2 B2 Class H quattro's

1 B2 Zero.5R @.5

2 B2 HNv3 12 d2

B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk

Northstar Group 35 under the hood

100ft 2/0 welding cable

30ft 4ga welding cable

20ft 8ga welding cable

All stinger OFC speaker wire

Soundrive custom RCA's

Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?

Posted

Take the door panel off and play it again and see if the problem lies in your door panel making the noise.

This may be a case of trying to track the noise down and remove it if possible, tough to say where the noise is actually coming from, from a video but try as best you can to find it.

01 Ford focus ZX3

Pioneer AVH-X491BHS

PPI PC 4800.2

Morel Maximo 6.5" x2

Posted

I contacted Polk, lets see what they will do for replacing my speaker. Any suggestions on what I should get if I were to replace what I have? I would need a comp set up front, with a tweeter about the same size as my Polk one since I already cut my door panel for it. And I would need a matching set of that driver coax or comp for the rear fill. (80% of my sound comes from up front, I just feel my music is better with music coming from behind me aswell. I feel like the rear "eats" the sound if I don't have a rear fill.

Finally the speakers have to take my T600-4. I'd like them to have great SQ, as that is one of my goals is to demo pink Floyd for my aunt who built the stages for them for years, and will know how it should sound. My budget is about $500 after I sell my polks if I decide to go that route.

Another idea I have it just saying fuck mid bass and cross them at like 150 hz. No buzzing sound for me. Though mid bass is nice and I love how my 1 door sounds

My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee

My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37

My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/

2016 Mazda 6 Touring

JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction

B2 prototype DSP 6to8

B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set

2 B2 Class H quattro's

1 B2 Zero.5R @.5

2 B2 HNv3 12 d2

B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk

Northstar Group 35 under the hood

100ft 2/0 welding cable

30ft 4ga welding cable

20ft 8ga welding cable

All stinger OFC speaker wire

Soundrive custom RCA's

Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1104 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...