SojiaRaggs9000 Posted December 24, 2012 Report Posted December 24, 2012 Ok so I've been debating over this box design that I've come up with for a while now. i figure its time to share and get some options on the matter before I commit to build it haha. The box will be for a single DC XL 10" (loaded) running off a DC 2.0k. My concept is that of a postive tappered quaterwave box but with a twist. KERF!! The box's outter dimmensions are: 12" H x 31 3/16" W x 21 5/8" D. Here is my standard t-line math i worked with.. following the equation: C / (4Fs) <---------{ speed of sound / ( 4 x the Fs of your sub} 1129.33ft / ( 4 x 41.7) = 6.7705ft 81.2467in <----- quaterwave length Then I decided to design based off the Sd of the sub which is 314.00 cm². Convert that to inches, which is 48.67009 in². SO if I where to build a standard quaterwave, I'd just make the port a consistent 48.67009 in² that was 81.2467in long. I've read good things about tapered quarterwave, so I figured why not. The Taper starts out at 4.625" behind the sub and opens up to a 6.9375" at the mouth. Which is a 1:1.5 ratio. Although with whole thing being kerfd the very end of the mouth is actually 11.25". Which actually makes it a 1 : 2.43 ratio. is that WAY too much? Ive seen 1 : 2 and 1 : 2.5 used before so I assume its ok. Anyways......... Two kerfd sections make up the entre port. The outside are for support and the empty space will be great stuffed. Kerfed sections would be glassed as well. Here is a picture of my plans. Discuss!! * Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface* Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )* Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )* DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp )* Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver * One FULLY LOADED ~ 10" DC m2 XL* Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box Tuned to 32hz. Single Chamber With Volume of 1.44618³ ft ; 1.13216³ ft After Displacement* Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling* MechMan 240a High Output Alternator * KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable RCA Cables* Upgraded Electrical With 1/0 KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable and 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable* Five Exide Orbital ORB34M Marine 12 Volt Batteries* PowerMaster XS D3100 12 Volt Battery My 2008 Chrysler 300 Limited - SuperCharged 3.5L V6 - UBL My Old 2005 Ford Taurus - CarDomain - Vehicle Was Sold
Slobalt7 Posted December 24, 2012 Report Posted December 24, 2012 Looks good, I am not one for a horn, I like just standard 1/4ths but it looks like everything is right and I like the kerfs although in normal ported boxes kerfs add a little to the tuning IDK how the do in 1/4's but have you considered that? Yeah, it's slower than your bowel movements.
Blue Posted December 24, 2012 Report Posted December 24, 2012 the kerfing is going to be a pain to do. But a 2k amp on that sub in a T-line is going to be WAY too much power IMO. Think that it will bottom out way too easily. I ran a SA v2 8 in a t-line on about 200 watts and got close to full excursion on it. So just be very careful if you do put the 2k amp on it. formerly known as Blue86f150 its a 4th order just because its tuned in the 40z doesnt mean it wont reach down and jiggle your balls at sub 30 hz frequencies. Regardless if they were dipped platinum and were stuffed in Beyonce's twat.....way too fucking exspensive this sux camel dicks
SojiaRaggs9000 Posted December 24, 2012 Author Report Posted December 24, 2012 the kerfing is going to be a pain to do. But a 2k amp on that sub in a T-line is going to be WAY too much power IMO. Think that it will bottom out way too easily. I ran a SA v2 8 in a t-line on about 200 watts and got close to full excursion on it. So just be very careful if you do put the 2k amp on it. Yeah it will be a pain in the ass.. but i just built a table saw sled so that should help out alot. The rms on the DC XL 10" is 2.2k. My sub also has the AR cone with the wide roll surround to help with excursion as well. I think it would be ok.. But yeah I'll definitely be watching it haha. Looks good, I am not one for a horn, I like just standard 1/4ths but it looks like everything is right and I like the kerfs although in normal ported boxes kerfs add a little to the tuning IDK how the do in 1/4's but have you considered that? Well I was thinking more along the lines of smooth airflow. I had to reach WAY back in my brain to remember how to find arc length but I remembered lol.... The length is the same as a standard line but this is where I get confused. I have read that you sould account for the taper by expanding the line.. (make it longer) Hmmm * Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface* Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )* Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )* DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp )* Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver * One FULLY LOADED ~ 10" DC m2 XL* Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box Tuned to 32hz. Single Chamber With Volume of 1.44618³ ft ; 1.13216³ ft After Displacement* Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling* MechMan 240a High Output Alternator * KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable RCA Cables* Upgraded Electrical With 1/0 KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable and 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable* Five Exide Orbital ORB34M Marine 12 Volt Batteries* PowerMaster XS D3100 12 Volt Battery My 2008 Chrysler 300 Limited - SuperCharged 3.5L V6 - UBL My Old 2005 Ford Taurus - CarDomain - Vehicle Was Sold
STEvil Posted December 24, 2012 Report Posted December 24, 2012 Dont curve the very end so much, it will keep the mouth further from the sub and allow it to use the the full wall of the box, though I guess it may affect how you will do the internal curves slightly. I would increase the length a little. MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.
SojiaRaggs9000 Posted December 24, 2012 Author Report Posted December 24, 2012 Dont curve the very end so much, it will keep the mouth further from the sub and allow it to use the the full wall of the box, though I guess it may affect how you will do the internal curves slightly. I would increase the length a little. 1 : 2.5 Ratio way too much? Without the last flared part its a 1 : 1.5 ratio. Hmmm, I guess I could add a piece on the flared section to bring the 11.24" back down to 6.9375". Who much longer should the line be expanded? Is there rule / guidline for this type of thing? * Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface* Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )* Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )* DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp )* Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver * One FULLY LOADED ~ 10" DC m2 XL* Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box Tuned to 32hz. Single Chamber With Volume of 1.44618³ ft ; 1.13216³ ft After Displacement* Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling* MechMan 240a High Output Alternator * KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable RCA Cables* Upgraded Electrical With 1/0 KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable and 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable* Five Exide Orbital ORB34M Marine 12 Volt Batteries* PowerMaster XS D3100 12 Volt Battery My 2008 Chrysler 300 Limited - SuperCharged 3.5L V6 - UBL My Old 2005 Ford Taurus - CarDomain - Vehicle Was Sold
STEvil Posted December 24, 2012 Report Posted December 24, 2012 I dont mean reduce the flare, just shift it so it uses the wall of the box at the end. What vehicle will this be going in and what location/direction? If it uses a side and/or corner to help load the port it might not be a big deal about the larger opening without a slight line length increase. MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.
SojiaRaggs9000 Posted December 24, 2012 Author Report Posted December 24, 2012 Chrysler 300 sealed off from the trunk. Port and sub firing forward. * Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface* Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )* Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )* DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp )* Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver * One FULLY LOADED ~ 10" DC m2 XL* Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box Tuned to 32hz. Single Chamber With Volume of 1.44618³ ft ; 1.13216³ ft After Displacement* Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling* MechMan 240a High Output Alternator * KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable RCA Cables* Upgraded Electrical With 1/0 KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable and 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable* Five Exide Orbital ORB34M Marine 12 Volt Batteries* PowerMaster XS D3100 12 Volt Battery My 2008 Chrysler 300 Limited - SuperCharged 3.5L V6 - UBL My Old 2005 Ford Taurus - CarDomain - Vehicle Was Sold
Tarball Posted December 24, 2012 Report Posted December 24, 2012 I am no expert on T-line by any measure, but I thought that in a t-line when it's tapered it would taper the other way around - closer to the port exit the smaller the area. Again, I am no expert. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
SojiaRaggs9000 Posted December 24, 2012 Author Report Posted December 24, 2012 I am no expert on T-line by any measure, but I thought that in a t-line when it's tapered it would taper the other way around - closer to the port exit the smaller the area. Again, I am no expert. That's a negative taper. The one I posted is a positive taper. * Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface* Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )* Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )* DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp )* Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver * One FULLY LOADED ~ 10" DC m2 XL* Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box Tuned to 32hz. Single Chamber With Volume of 1.44618³ ft ; 1.13216³ ft After Displacement* Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling* MechMan 240a High Output Alternator * KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable RCA Cables* Upgraded Electrical With 1/0 KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable and 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable* Five Exide Orbital ORB34M Marine 12 Volt Batteries* PowerMaster XS D3100 12 Volt Battery My 2008 Chrysler 300 Limited - SuperCharged 3.5L V6 - UBL My Old 2005 Ford Taurus - CarDomain - Vehicle Was Sold
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