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how to determine how much to shrink box for extra power?


Fatman489

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For a music box that will not see a LOT of time on the meter at a certain frequency, design the box based on the frequency response you desire, not just to allow yourself to overpower the sub. People forget that shrinking the box also reduces the efficency and low end frequency response.

You are better off to design the box correctly and power the sub based on the subs thermal power handling or the mechanical power handling of the sub in the box you designed with the SSF set correctly - which ever one is lower.

I know many will disagree, but that is my 2 cents.

While I also agree with what your saying I think his current box is way to big to begin with. I have seen tons and tons of 18" setups and most are in boxes around 5 cubes or less. I think he is taking the right approach if he is set on adding more power. There is still plenty of low end to be had in a box of 5 cubes.

HDC3 requires a bigger box than most woofers. SQ recommends a 6^3 box because they have VERY stuff suspension.

2007 M/T Honda Civic Coupe EX

(4) Sundown Audio X-8's

(2) Ampere Audio 3800.1's

(3) Stinger SPV-44 Batteries

(1) Mechman 240

3:1 Ratio 4th order sealed from the trunk

TEAM NWSPL

Best termlab scores to date in Honda trunk:
151.7db legal (official) IASCA trunk 3 class

Best termlab scores to date in my walled Subie:
152.9db legal (unofficial) IASCA advanced 2 class
155db outlaw

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For a music box that will not see a LOT of time on the meter at a certain frequency, design the box based on the frequency response you desire, not just to allow yourself to overpower the sub. People forget that shrinking the box also reduces the efficency and low end frequency response.

You are better off to design the box correctly and power the sub based on the subs thermal power handling or the mechanical power handling of the sub in the box you designed with the SSF set correctly - which ever one is lower.

I know many will disagree, but that is my 2 cents.

While I also agree with what your saying I think his current box is way to big to begin with. I have seen tons and tons of 18" setups and most are in boxes around 5 cubes or less. I think he is taking the right approach if he is set on adding more power. There is still plenty of low end to be had in a box of 5 cubes.

HDC3 requires a bigger box than most woofers. SQ recommends a 6^3 box because they have VERY stuff suspension.

I understand what AQ may suggest but they also don't recommend running as much power as he is attempting to run. The box being smaller will help that suspension to stay stiff for a much longer time. Also if sq is actually what is in mind the AQ woofer is one of the last I would choose to use. The owner said he wants loud but still good sound. In order to increase output some things may need to be sacrificed, and in this case shrinking the box down some should help his output and longevity of his sub.

2013 VW Jetta GLI 2.0 Turbo

1 Sundown Audio SCV2000

1 Sundown Audio X15 V2

1 XS Power D3100

Audio Control LC6i

Stock Deck

146.4 sealed on the dash at 37hz

2001 Focus ZX3: RETIRED

Team Sundown Audio, Team XS Power, 2 time NSPL Car 3601-Up Champion, 2 time NSPL Car Hardcore Champion
Highest NSPL Scores to date:
154.3db on the dash sealed at 46hz, 156.2db in the kick at 46hz
155.2db unofficial on dash at 43hz

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For a music box that will not see a LOT of time on the meter at a certain frequency, design the box based on the frequency response you desire, not just to allow yourself to overpower the sub. People forget that shrinking the box also reduces the efficency and low end frequency response.

You are better off to design the box correctly and power the sub based on the subs thermal power handling or the mechanical power handling of the sub in the box you designed with the SSF set correctly - which ever one is lower.

I know many will disagree, but that is my 2 cents.

While I also agree with what your saying I think his current box is way to big to begin with. I have seen tons and tons of 18" setups and most are in boxes around 5 cubes or less. I think he is taking the right approach if he is set on adding more power. There is still plenty of low end to be had in a box of 5 cubes.

HDC3 requires a bigger box than most woofers. SQ recommends a 6^3 box because they have VERY stuff suspension.

I understand what AQ may suggest but they also don't recommend running as much power as he is attempting to run. The box being smaller will help that suspension to stay stiff for a much longer time. Also if sq is actually what is in mind the AQ woofer is one of the last I would choose to use. The owner said he wants loud but still good sound. In order to increase output some things may need to be sacrificed, and in this case shrinking the box down some should help his output and longevity of his sub.

I didn't mean SQ as in sound quality, SQ is the new name of the brand.

Actually, using the same enclosure and taking it easy on the gains would have the same effect as a smaller box, while being less demanding in his electrical system.

2007 M/T Honda Civic Coupe EX

(4) Sundown Audio X-8's

(2) Ampere Audio 3800.1's

(3) Stinger SPV-44 Batteries

(1) Mechman 240

3:1 Ratio 4th order sealed from the trunk

TEAM NWSPL

Best termlab scores to date in Honda trunk:
151.7db legal (official) IASCA trunk 3 class

Best termlab scores to date in my walled Subie:
152.9db legal (unofficial) IASCA advanced 2 class
155db outlaw

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Theres lots of good info here ... my box is currently 7.5ish cubes gross with a 5inch wide 3 common wall port tuned to 36hz ... I believe thats around 6cubes net possibly a little less ... I mean either way tbis box has to be redone as it sits way too high .. I have to knock about 4 inches at least off the hight.. so its gettin rebuilt just have to decide if Im going bigger or smaller .. thanks for all the info guys even if it is making my decision even harder lol

DFAC

Beating Down The Block

2013 Kenworth T-660 Studio Sleeper-The daily and Money maker

I do what I want -push it till it pops!

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I say build the new smaller box and see how sounds. A lot of systems out there are all trial and error.

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Im thinking build it to 5.83 cubes gross .. knocks me down to 5.5 after sub and right at 5 after ports and sub ... prolly be built in 3 weeks when I get back in town for a few days ... have to play around witb torres and see what I can come up with lol

DFAC

Beating Down The Block

2013 Kenworth T-660 Studio Sleeper-The daily and Money maker

I do what I want -push it till it pops!

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You should also consider that doubling the power to the sub will just get you a couple of dB.

An increase of 10 dB is twice as loud to the average human ear. . .

3db.. Not 10db

Wrong my friend.

Doubling power will increase the output 3 dB in theory, but it takes 10 dB for music to sound twice as loud to the human ear, which is 10x power in theory. I'll stress in theory, because it will never happen in a real application. . .

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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You can always cut down the top and try it out. If you decide it's not right and want to go bigger you will have to rebuild your entire box anyways. Who sets this "by ear" volume? Scientists. I can turn my volume up 5 notches and say it's 10x as loud by my ear. that doesn't mean that it is 10x as loud. It is all "theory".

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Who sets this "by ear" volume? Scientists. I can turn my volume up 5 notches and say it's 10x as loud by my ear. that doesn't mean that it is 10x as loud. It is all "theory".

And that is why you chose tonedeaf as your id :)

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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Share on other sites

You should also consider that doubling the power to the sub will just get you a couple of dB.

An increase of 10 dB is twice as loud to the average human ear. . .

3db.. Not 10db

Wrong my friend.

Doubling power will increase the output 3 dB in theory, but it takes 10 dB for music to sound twice as loud to the human ear, which is 10x power in theory. I'll stress in theory, because it will never happen in a real application. . .

Interesting! Learn something new everyday :)

2007 M/T Honda Civic Coupe EX

(4) Sundown Audio X-8's

(2) Ampere Audio 3800.1's

(3) Stinger SPV-44 Batteries

(1) Mechman 240

3:1 Ratio 4th order sealed from the trunk

TEAM NWSPL

Best termlab scores to date in Honda trunk:
151.7db legal (official) IASCA trunk 3 class

Best termlab scores to date in my walled Subie:
152.9db legal (unofficial) IASCA advanced 2 class
155db outlaw

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