Banshee421 Posted January 18, 2013 Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 What roll do this play. I would like to use less power to be loud. I don't want to do big 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max1636 Posted January 18, 2013 Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 First of all if you want to be loud with less power, you should do the big 3. Funnily enough just this moment I posted a topic asking how Pro Audio subwoofers can be used in Car Audio applications. Bigger subwoofers are more efficient than smaller ones, this may help. (Old Car) 1995 Volkswagon Golf MK3 2.0L: Fi SP4 18 On A DC Audio 3.5K In A PWK Box Hertz DSK 6" Speakers, Clarion HU 3x Fullriver 120aH AGM's, 225A Alt 2012 Subaru BRZ: Audison Prima APK 163 Bit One, Rockford Amps, Audison Sub Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted January 18, 2013 Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 What roll do this play. I would like to use less power to be loud. I don't want to do big 3 High sensitivity subs need larger boxes to get low, subs designed for SPL applications like the Fi BTL N3 feature very high sensitivity as well high power handling to do their thing but may not be the best option for daily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkolfo4 Posted January 19, 2013 Report Share Posted January 19, 2013 Sub efficiency matters, but as already stated it is a trade off. Sometimes those trade offs can be offset by box design. Download a free modeling program and experiment with different sub/enclosure combinations. Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted January 19, 2013 Report Share Posted January 19, 2013 I don't believe the sensitivity rating gives you any real idea of what the sub can do. Since that test is carried out at 1kHz and you don't play that through your subs. Do this: (Bl^2/Re)/Mms. What that gives you is motor force divided by the weight of the moving parts. Note that this only works when comparing subs with the same cone area ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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