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subwoofer sensitivity


Banshee421

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First of all if you want to be loud with less power, you should do the big 3. Funnily enough just this moment I posted a topic asking how Pro Audio subwoofers can be used in Car Audio applications. Bigger subwoofers are more efficient than smaller ones, this may help.

(Old Car) 1995 Volkswagon Golf MK3 2.0L:

Fi SP4 18 On A DC Audio 3.5K In A PWK Box

Hertz DSK 6" Speakers, Clarion HU

3x Fullriver 120aH AGM's, 225A Alt

2012 Subaru BRZ:

Audison Prima APK 163

Bit One, Rockford Amps, Audison Sub

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What roll do this play. I would like to use less power to be loud. I don't want to do big 3

High sensitivity subs need larger boxes to get low, subs designed for SPL applications like the Fi BTL N3 feature very high sensitivity as well high power handling to do their thing but may not be the best option for daily.

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Sub efficiency matters, but as already stated it is a trade off.

Sometimes those trade offs can be offset by box design.

Download a free modeling program and experiment with different sub/enclosure combinations.

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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I don't believe the sensitivity rating gives you any real idea of what the sub can do. Since that test is carried out at 1kHz and you don't play that through your subs.

Do this: (Bl^2/Re)/Mms. What that gives you is motor force divided by the weight of the moving parts. Note that this only works when comparing subs with the same cone area

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