odsound Posted February 1, 2013 Report Posted February 1, 2013 remove the speaker wires from each channel one by one remove one set of wires turn it up for a bit if it turns off put back the set of wires and try taking off another set of speaker wires till your amp stays on....another thing to try if you got a dmm put the positive lead on the 12v side and the negative lead on each speaker wire thats a quick way of finding a speaker wire that is pinched if one wire is pinched your dmm should show 12v That won't mess anything up? Never heard of that no you should be fine if your using a dmm make sure the amp is off vehicle-02 toyota celicawoofers-groundshaker g-s1 10" woofersamp-SUNDOWNAUDIO SAZ 3500battery-1 C&D battery
One Way Posted February 1, 2013 Author Report Posted February 1, 2013 Alright il try it in the morning T-line build- http://www.stevemead...e-t-line-build/
STEvil Posted February 1, 2013 Report Posted February 1, 2013 remove the speaker wires from each channel one by one remove one set of wires turn it up for a bit if it turns off put back the set of wires and try taking off another set of speaker wires till your amp stays on....another thing to try if you got a dmm put the positive lead on the 12v side and the negative lead on each speaker wire thats a quick way of finding a speaker wire that is pinched if one wire is pinched your dmm should show 12v No, it wont show 12v. Your speakers never (or should never) receive DC voltage, let alone 12 volts from the battery. If you want to do this test correctly you set the multimeter to ohms or beep/short and look for a short. You may need to test between ground and each terminal as well since the a positive lead may not necessarily be shorted to a negative lead. EDIT Your problem is likely clipping. What frequency did you test the HU and amp at and were your tests done with crossovers on each active or disabled? Having crossovers enabled on both at the same time will result in compounding your lowpass slope which will sound like ass.. MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.
8ight Posted February 1, 2013 Report Posted February 1, 2013 Not yet ima buy some liquid electrical tape And try it in the morning. I'm a lil busy now. Sorry I came off like a dick dude, weren't my intentions. It was a simple misunderstanding, text communication is pretty limited honestly. I'm gonna hate
odsound Posted February 1, 2013 Report Posted February 1, 2013 remove the speaker wires from each channel one by one remove one set of wires turn it up for a bit if it turns off put back the set of wires and try taking off another set of speaker wires till your amp stays on....another thing to try if you got a dmm put the positive lead on the 12v side and the negative lead on each speaker wire thats a quick way of finding a speaker wire that is pinched if one wire is pinched your dmm should show 12v No, it wont show 12v. Your speakers never (or should never) receive DC voltage, let alone 12 volts from the battery. If you want to do this test correctly you set the multimeter to ohms or beep/short and look for a short. You may need to test between ground and each terminal as well since the a positive lead may not necessarily be shorted to a negative lead. EDIT Your problem is likely clipping. What frequency did you test the HU and amp at and were your tests done with crossovers on each active or disabled? Having crossovers enabled on both at the same time will result in compounding your lowpass slope which will sound like ass.. so your saying if a wire is pinched by a piece of metal from the vehicle that it wont show 12v on the dmm i can make a quick video tomorrow showing you its possible. its like saying an amplifier grounded to the body of a car wont show 12v when checking it with a dmm if a speaker wire is being pinched by a metal piece it will show 12v vehicle-02 toyota celicawoofers-groundshaker g-s1 10" woofersamp-SUNDOWNAUDIO SAZ 3500battery-1 C&D battery
One Way Posted February 1, 2013 Author Report Posted February 1, 2013 Your problem is likely clipping. What frequency did you test the HU and amp at and were your tests done with crossovers on each active or disabled? Having crossovers enabled on both at the same time will result in compounding your lowpass slope which will sound like ass.. I used the dd1 0db 40 htz and 1000 htz idk what you mean by active crossovers, I'm not running active just passive. T-line build- http://www.stevemead...e-t-line-build/
ALPINE408 Posted February 1, 2013 Report Posted February 1, 2013 iif you didn't catch my sarcasime in the other post I'm sorry amps just don't start going out liike that where there is only a problem at full tilt .... the problem is you your songs or your install Have you ever had your woofers blown?
AI James Posted February 1, 2013 Report Posted February 1, 2013 hell from what i seen yesterday in person it could even be the deck.
One Way Posted February 1, 2013 Author Report Posted February 1, 2013 Why makes you say it's the deck? It plays clean all the way up to full volume. And alpine yeah I caught it T-line build- http://www.stevemead...e-t-line-build/
SONCIO Posted February 1, 2013 Report Posted February 1, 2013 why do you play your deck at full tilt?To me thats just distortion.I would'nt go any higher than 28sh on that deck.Just for cleaner sound.
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