Swordlordboy1234 Posted December 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2013 Dang I'm surprised you can't hear your doors over the bass one a 125.4. My 90/100.4 keeps up pretty well, but then again I'm active. Maybe your crossover is sucking up a bit of power. But anyways, I knew I hit lows better when both windows were down. So I was dickin around the other day trying different things and stumbled across that. I mean yeah both doors open still has much better than all sealed up, but it just seemed to me one door open made a huge difference. I need to see if drivers door or passenger door makes it louder for the passenger. Where do you peak at on the low end? I'm at 29hz with port plug and 32 without. Or do your subs not have a peak. Which wouldn't surprise me lol Oh i definitely have a peak… And I'm working on the hearing the doors better thing now. I could just be picky but even my gf says its hard to hear some words especially on the louder songs. Dirty bass (33) gets fucking retarded loud in my car. But as far as best demo it would be something like So Dope (28&up) or Mob life (28 & 36) I play 24-27 very well. 28-31 like a beast (flex city) 32-36 (fucking pressure city) and 37-45 pretty good. Beyond that i have my LPF set so i don't use a bunch of voltage while playing those high notes… But thats just because i like to set it and forget it on the highway… So id rather not hear 50hz and have better voltage for other notes, you know? But the retarded low note on "Takin chances" 23 & up (its lower then 23 hz, fuck you decaf for lying) and lights down low are the songs i gotta be careful on. No matter how high i set my subsonic, my subs/enclosure with 4k of power on them don't like less then 23 hz My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted December 1, 2013 Report Share Posted December 1, 2013 Awesome, thanks! Id appreciate a video. Also, just to clarify.. your 2500 is at .5 nominal, correct? On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swordlordboy1234 Posted December 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2013 Awesome, thanks! Id appreciate a video. Also, just to clarify.. your 2500 is at .5 nominal, correct? That is correct sir. It is a pair of D2 subs double paralleled to .5 nominal. I don't overly recommend just because of voiding warranty. But Its working just fine so far. If i switch subs i might find d4's just to run 1ohm.. or if i have the better electrical by then i can run .5 ohms much better. It really does work great, I'm just picky and like to use things such as "Set it and forget it" on a 2 hour trip… and demo at idle / walk away… which you can't do with my current electrical with this amp at .5 If your responsible with your electrical it works awesome at .5 nominal. My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted December 1, 2013 Report Share Posted December 1, 2013 No, I don't plan on wiring at .5.. Im just curious so I have a better idea of your current draw On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swordlordboy1234 Posted December 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2013 At 1 ohm… i couldn't tell you. At .5 ohm nominal.. Id say somewhere in the neighborhood of 300 amps draw. OFC helped a ton. Before OFC i was dropping 12.2 with out even blinking… My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted December 1, 2013 Report Share Posted December 1, 2013 I was thinking around the same draw. Wow, the conversion made that big of a difference? My run between batteries is OFC, but everything else is CCA. I may need to make a switch when I rebuild this winter.. hmm.. On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swordlordboy1234 Posted December 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2013 I was thinking around the same draw. Wow, the conversion made that big of a difference? My run between batteries is OFC, but everything else is CCA. I may need to make a switch when I rebuild this winter.. hmm.. I was a non believer of OFC vs cca until i changed. WOW. OFC sky high made a WORLD of a difference. Don't get me wrong the CCA sky high was awesome but ill never run cca again. My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted December 1, 2013 Report Share Posted December 1, 2013 Hahah.. enough said.. note taken Im really thinking about switching now.. On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DubNDodge Posted December 1, 2013 Report Share Posted December 1, 2013 Dang that's cool you can play that low. Like I said I kill 29, meh at 27. 26 last freq that is decent. 25 and below drops of the face of the planet. That's what I get with having really low port area haha XD (port plug) '01 Dodge Stratass Sealed Trunk Build Log 2008 Honda Fit Sport Build Log On 10/3/2013 at 10:00 AM, ROLEXrifleman said: Anyone who says they knew everything they wanted out of life at 19 can go suck a bag of dicks cause they are lying to themselves or brought up in a cult. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bighossf150 Posted December 1, 2013 Report Share Posted December 1, 2013 Mmm.. You have the 2 amps that I want haha.. Just out of curiosity, how is your voltage? Is the CT2500 wired to .5? Im asking because Ill be running similar power within the next few months.. Just at 1 ohm lol -Being that I'm picky id say my voltage is good/ok. But others might say its great considering. Ill take a video of it on a few different songs tomorrow if i have time. Basically if I'm revving i hold between 13.6 to 12.8 depending on the note. After i upgrade the batteries and the alternator i hope to hold those same voltages at IDLE not revving I can't really open it up at idle.. it protects the amp because of a spike of low voltage. The CT amps have a very sensitive protect circuit. I doubt my battery ever touched below 11.0 and I've protected it. So needless to say i don't turn it up past 60% on the LC1 unless I'm driving. Only notes i can play at idle are between 33-35. I guess thats where IMP rise is the highest because i hold around 12.6 at idle full tilt at those notes and don't protect. But when I'm not showing off i can drive around town 144+db and hold 14.1 volts which is great. I estimate the 144 because thats what it was full tilt before all of this, and it sounds about the same as that. Im still learning the system. But the bass portion is 100% done. Next stages are to get my doors to where i can hear them again. (i can't hear a damn thing when my bass is all the way up). Get my DC alternator and my XS power batteries maybe toss a OFC big 3 in there instead of CCA and then start on my mechanical and cosmetic fixes. On a side note. Anyone at turkey drag will not believe this is 2 12's in a trunk car. 28-36hz is stupid in it. Ive herd 2 18's walled, 2 15's walled. and many other non walled systems no where near as loud as this one sounds. You never know what it will put up with numbers but its DAMN impressive to the ear if i do say so myself. I can't wait to see if people agree with me. Again OUT OF A TRUNK, on TWO 12's I still can't get over it. Thanks again for all the comments guys. I hope for more! it really makes all this work worth it to see the positive feedback. I believe it, xfl's get fucking looooow. I did a full tilt 23hz hair trick on my wife the other day. But I can only play that low with one window down. The subs unload bad with both down. Used to have a loud truck 2009 Corvette Z06, H/C/I, 150 shot, g force tune, 730rwhp/690rwtq 2013 F-150 limited, MPT Tune, leveled on 35"s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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