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DC Power 270a Only Making [email protected] On Escalade

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yea, it would mean its something with the electronics, and not a system wiring issue. which is why i kept asking that last night since its a quick way to trouble shoot.

and you can also bypass any form of factory limiting of the alternator buy jumping a constant 12 volts to the alt plug to turn it on, instead of using the oem factory plug.. snip one off from a junk yard, or buy one from a autoparts store, wire it to a relay to turn on with the vehicle, then your ecm wont control the alt, but you may get a check engine light or a no charge light.

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yea, it would mean its something with the electronics, and not a system wiring issue. which is why i kept asking that last night since its a quick way to trouble shoot.

and you can also bypass any form of factory limiting of the alternator buy jumping a constant 12 volts to the alt plug to turn it on, instead of using the oem factory plug.. snip one off from a junk yard, or buy one from a autoparts store, wire it to a relay to turn on with the vehicle, then your ecm wont control the alt, but you may get a check engine light or a no charge light.

but doesnt that wire get controlled by the ecu sending different voltages to control what voltage it will send out, controlling the field current of the alt?


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Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)

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No not always, If its a oval plug style, there are 4 connections that are used depending on vehicle and options (like the dummy light on the instrument clusters).

From what was said, its a oval plug, oval plugs are the ad series alts, the rectangular are the cs series alts (mainly older gm's). Around 2006 iirc and up gm started using the dr series alts on some vehicles which means its controlled by the vehicles PCM, most of these units look like the ad style alt, but use a 2 wire roundish type of plug.

Now Im unsure if GM has a pcm controlled alt with the 4 wire oval plug like the user has, which makes it baffling to assume it would be pcm controlled if indeed it was the 4 wire oval plug. but I could be wrong.

so on with the oval plug.

Normally 4 pins, each pin has a letter ( S, F, L, P)

The S wire is Sense, you hook this to the battery, it monitors the voltage. This is the wire people use to "trick" their alternator into charging higher by adding resistors inline on the wire. The resistors will make the alt think the battery is dead and charge higher.

The F wire is normally connected to your idiot light on your dash and to your ecm, I also believe this wire could turn the alternator on too, but not certain.

The L wire is what turns your alternator on, its 12volts, jumping it straight to the battery will make your alt turn on/off (but as I posted before, jump it off a relay that turns on/off with the vehicle) otherwise your alternator is on even when the vehicle is off.

The P wire usually goes to the tach

All 4 wires are rarely always used, normally the vehicle uses the F or the F and S, L and P not used so much from my experiences.


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So I just looked up a 2006 cadillac escalade and for an alternator, it showed the 2 wire plug that is more rounded then oval.

would of known that right away if he posted the pic of his alternator

null.jpg

;)

not the rectangular style like this one below..

images_zpsba9b566f.jpg

That being said, his trucks alternator is also pcm controlled.

So knowing that it is for sure pcm controlled you are kinda screwed... a few ways of getting around it tho.

You can have your alt regulator changed to a 4 pin oval style like the plug image above, then you just gotta connect the one wire to a switched 12volt to turn the alt on/off. downfall would be having a battery light on your dash illuminated.

Another option would be to get a dual alt kit, run the stock alt thru the pcm, not giving you much gain, but then run the 2nd alt with the 4pin oval plug, and run that as a stereo only type alt. downfall would be buying a bracket, still sending the alt in to be changed over. Or you can use that alt you have now and buy a 2nd high output with the oval 4 pin, but youll be out more money, and not have much gain vs 1 ho and 1 stock.

Also, you maybe able to remove 1 of those factory wires from the pin if you know which wire excites the alternator (turns it on), and hope that its not the same wire that runs to your pcm to control it. If the excite and pcm wire are indeed separate from each other (un sure of, would have to ask dc power what each wire does), you could simply remove it from the plug tape it off, and then have the alt running as normal. Most likely will still have a dummy light illuminated in your cluster (which could possibly fixed with a resister).

Im going to go "stfu" now with my useless info.

Edited by Audiofanaticz
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Guest DC Power Kyle

Alright I know this is a six page thread but I am going to be brief and explain what is happening here. I would also like the OP to call me today at 951-602-5378.

The newer GM vehicles have a "RVC" regulator. I am copying and pasting from this link: http://www.duboismarketing.com/pages/article.asp?id=31

What would you be willing to do to increase your fuel economy by 10 percent? Our friends at GM have developed an "Engine Management Control" system to do just that. Of primary importance to this system they have developed a new series of voltage regulator that is controlled by a system known as RVC. As of today there are three different versions of the total system. The "Stand Alone Regulated Voltage Control" (SARVC) uses a "Generator Battery Control Module" to control the alternator set point. The other RVC systems, Generation III and Generation IV, use up to five different computers to operate the entire system and control the alternator regulator set point. There is a default voltage regulator set point built into the regulator. It is set at 13.8 volts. If the system fails at any point the regulator will default to the 13.8 volts and a code will be set.

There are six possible modes of operation in the system. They are:
Charge Mode
Fuel Economy Mode
Voltage Reduction Mode
Start Up Mode
Windshield Device Mode
Battery Sulfation Mode
Each of these modes has a set of parameters that are measured by the vehicles computers to determine the set point of the alternator regulator.

The main components of this system are:
Battery Current Sensor
Body Control Module
Instrument Panel Module
Dash Integration Module
ECM/PCM
Instrument Panel Cluster
Generator Battery Control Module (SARVC only)
Diagnostics of this system are specific to each of the three different versions. You must refer to the service manual for on car information such as DTC codes.

Why is this important to you? Suppose you have a customer with a 2005 Chevy Cobalt that comes to you complaining that his volt meter has dropped from around 14 volts to 13 volts. He thinks he has a bad alternator. You think that he might be right. At the least he has a charging system problem. Wrong!!! The RVC system is doing its job. The vehicle computer has made a decision based upon vehicle parameters that 13 volts is the most efficient set point on this vehicle. Replacing the alternator might create a different environment that would cause the set point to again be changed, but it could reset back to 13 volts as soon as the parameters are the same as before.

Now, for what is going on in the alternator is very simple. The RVC system is EXTREMELY slow to respond to increased demands which can creates some issues with keeping voltage consistent in high power stereo systems.

I get this call a lot of times with people and there is a simple solution. Give me a call, send the alternator back and I will send you out a dual kit for a heavily discounted price. In return, you will get an older style, pre RVC regulator and you wont have this issue with the slow response times with the increased load. The next step would be to isolate the factory alternator for just the vehicle and run your D3100 for your amplifiers with the 270XP. Now, I can't speak for the amplifiers shutting off and whatnot, but I can tell you with a properly installed system with a D3100, you shouldn't be having your amps shutting off that fast. I personally ran 4 T2500-1bdCPs with 2 SMD 15s. on a D2400 and Two Odyssey PC2250s in the back with a single run of 0 gauge from the front with a SINGLE 270XP and NEVER had my amplifiers shut off on my hour commute to the shop every day playing full tilt.... Just give me a call today and I will take care of you.

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Damn, I think I said that it was a PCM controlled alt on the first page also. Oh well.

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formerly known as Blue86f150

its a 4th order just because its tuned in the 40z doesnt mean it wont reach down and jiggle your balls at sub 30 hz frequencies.

Regardless if they were dipped platinum and were stuffed in Beyonce's twat.....way too fucking exspensive

this sux camel dicks

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Alright I know this is a six page thread but I am going to be brief and explain what is happening here. I would also like the OP to call me today at 951-602-5378.

The newer GM vehicles have a "RVC" regulator. I am copying and pasting from this link: http://www.duboismarketing.com/pages/article.asp?id=31

What would you be willing to do to increase your fuel economy by 10 percent? Our friends at GM have developed an "Engine Management Control" system to do just that. Of primary importance to this system they have developed a new series of voltage regulator that is controlled by a system known as RVC. As of today there are three different versions of the total system. The "Stand Alone Regulated Voltage Control" (SARVC) uses a "Generator Battery Control Module" to control the alternator set point. The other RVC systems, Generation III and Generation IV, use up to five different computers to operate the entire system and control the alternator regulator set point. There is a default voltage regulator set point built into the regulator. It is set at 13.8 volts. If the system fails at any point the regulator will default to the 13.8 volts and a code will be set.

There are six possible modes of operation in the system. They are:

Charge Mode

Fuel Economy Mode

Voltage Reduction Mode

Start Up Mode

Windshield Device Mode

Battery Sulfation Mode

Each of these modes has a set of parameters that are measured by the vehicles computers to determine the set point of the alternator regulator.

The main components of this system are:

Battery Current Sensor

Body Control Module

Instrument Panel Module

Dash Integration Module

ECM/PCM

Instrument Panel Cluster

Generator Battery Control Module (SARVC only)

Diagnostics of this system are specific to each of the three different versions. You must refer to the service manual for on car information such as DTC codes.

Why is this important to you? Suppose you have a customer with a 2005 Chevy Cobalt that comes to you complaining that his volt meter has dropped from around 14 volts to 13 volts. He thinks he has a bad alternator. You think that he might be right. At the least he has a charging system problem. Wrong!!! The RVC system is doing its job. The vehicle computer has made a decision based upon vehicle parameters that 13 volts is the most efficient set point on this vehicle. Replacing the alternator might create a different environment that would cause the set point to again be changed, but it could reset back to 13 volts as soon as the parameters are the same as before.

Now, for what is going on in the alternator is very simple. The RVC system is EXTREMELY slow to respond to increased demands which can creates some issues with keeping voltage consistent in high power stereo systems.

I get this call a lot of times with people and there is a simple solution. Give me a call, send the alternator back and I will send you out a dual kit for a heavily discounted price. In return, you will get an older style, pre RVC regulator and you wont have this issue with the slow response times with the increased load. The next step would be to isolate the factory alternator for just the vehicle and run your D3100 for your amplifiers with the 270XP. Now, I can't speak for the amplifiers shutting off and whatnot, but I can tell you with a properly installed system with a D3100, you shouldn't be having your amps shutting off that fast. I personally ran 4 T2500-1bdCPs with 2 SMD 15s. on a D2400 and Two Odyssey PC2250s in the back with a single run of 0 gauge from the front with a SINGLE 270XP and NEVER had my amplifiers shut off on my hour commute to the shop every day playing full tilt.... Just give me a call today and I will take care of you.

what about mazda3's, I have a 2006 mazda 3 with the same issue, I can only get 160 amps out of it, and 80 during idle, it is a mechman, but what type pcm system is running this alt?


2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd Manual
Pioneer 4300DVD
2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)
Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub Amp
Kicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)
Kicker KQ3 Active Crossover
Kicker KQ30 Equalizer
Kicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)
Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)
2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -)

1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -)

300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker Wire
XS Power D3400 (Rear)
XS Power D3100 (Front)
Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)

+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3

UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments)

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Alright I know this is a six page thread but I am going to be brief and explain what is happening here. I would also like the OP to call me today at 951-602-5378.

The newer GM vehicles have a "RVC" regulator. I am copying and pasting from this link: http://www.duboismarketing.com/pages/article.asp?id=31

What would you be willing to do to increase your fuel economy by 10 percent? Our friends at GM have developed an "Engine Management Control" system to do just that. Of primary importance to this system they have developed a new series of voltage regulator that is controlled by a system known as RVC. As of today there are three different versions of the total system. The "Stand Alone Regulated Voltage Control" (SARVC) uses a "Generator Battery Control Module" to control the alternator set point. The other RVC systems, Generation III and Generation IV, use up to five different computers to operate the entire system and control the alternator regulator set point. There is a default voltage regulator set point built into the regulator. It is set at 13.8 volts. If the system fails at any point the regulator will default to the 13.8 volts and a code will be set.

There are six possible modes of operation in the system. They are:

Charge Mode

Fuel Economy Mode

Voltage Reduction Mode

Start Up Mode

Windshield Device Mode

Battery Sulfation Mode

Each of these modes has a set of parameters that are measured by the vehicles computers to determine the set point of the alternator regulator.

The main components of this system are:

Battery Current Sensor

Body Control Module

Instrument Panel Module

Dash Integration Module

ECM/PCM

Instrument Panel Cluster

Generator Battery Control Module (SARVC only)

Diagnostics of this system are specific to each of the three different versions. You must refer to the service manual for on car information such as DTC codes.

Why is this important to you? Suppose you have a customer with a 2005 Chevy Cobalt that comes to you complaining that his volt meter has dropped from around 14 volts to 13 volts. He thinks he has a bad alternator. You think that he might be right. At the least he has a charging system problem. Wrong!!! The RVC system is doing its job. The vehicle computer has made a decision based upon vehicle parameters that 13 volts is the most efficient set point on this vehicle. Replacing the alternator might create a different environment that would cause the set point to again be changed, but it could reset back to 13 volts as soon as the parameters are the same as before.

Now, for what is going on in the alternator is very simple. The RVC system is EXTREMELY slow to respond to increased demands which can creates some issues with keeping voltage consistent in high power stereo systems.

I get this call a lot of times with people and there is a simple solution. Give me a call, send the alternator back and I will send you out a dual kit for a heavily discounted price. In return, you will get an older style, pre RVC regulator and you wont have this issue with the slow response times with the increased load. The next step would be to isolate the factory alternator for just the vehicle and run your D3100 for your amplifiers with the 270XP. Now, I can't speak for the amplifiers shutting off and whatnot, but I can tell you with a properly installed system with a D3100, you shouldn't be having your amps shutting off that fast. I personally ran 4 T2500-1bdCPs with 2 SMD 15s. on a D2400 and Two Odyssey PC2250s in the back with a single run of 0 gauge from the front with a SINGLE 270XP and NEVER had my amplifiers shut off on my hour commute to the shop every day playing full tilt.... Just give me a call today and I will take care of you.

what about mazda3's, I have a 2006 mazda 3 with the same issue, I can only get 160 amps out of it, and 80 during idle, it is a mechman, but what type pcm system is running this alt?

Its a Mechman Alt why not call them ask since thats who will warranty it for you.


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4 Custom Steg 4" Super Tweeters
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1 DC Audio 90.4
Rockford 360.3
3 DC Power 370xp Alts(Externally regulated)
21 D1600's
2 D4800's
All SMD RCA's
AudioTechnix Deadner
Viper Alarm

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Alright I know this is a six page thread but I am going to be brief and explain what is happening here. I would also like the OP to call me today at 951-602-5378.

The newer GM vehicles have a "RVC" regulator. I am copying and pasting from this link: http://www.duboismarketing.com/pages/article.asp?id=31

What would you be willing to do to increase your fuel economy by 10 percent? Our friends at GM have developed an "Engine Management Control" system to do just that. Of primary importance to this system they have developed a new series of voltage regulator that is controlled by a system known as RVC. As of today there are three different versions of the total system. The "Stand Alone Regulated Voltage Control" (SARVC) uses a "Generator Battery Control Module" to control the alternator set point. The other RVC systems, Generation III and Generation IV, use up to five different computers to operate the entire system and control the alternator regulator set point. There is a default voltage regulator set point built into the regulator. It is set at 13.8 volts. If the system fails at any point the regulator will default to the 13.8 volts and a code will be set.

There are six possible modes of operation in the system. They are:

Charge Mode

Fuel Economy Mode

Voltage Reduction Mode

Start Up Mode

Windshield Device Mode

Battery Sulfation Mode

Each of these modes has a set of parameters that are measured by the vehicles computers to determine the set point of the alternator regulator.

The main components of this system are:

Battery Current Sensor

Body Control Module

Instrument Panel Module

Dash Integration Module

ECM/PCM

Instrument Panel Cluster

Generator Battery Control Module (SARVC only)

Diagnostics of this system are specific to each of the three different versions. You must refer to the service manual for on car information such as DTC codes.

Why is this important to you? Suppose you have a customer with a 2005 Chevy Cobalt that comes to you complaining that his volt meter has dropped from around 14 volts to 13 volts. He thinks he has a bad alternator. You think that he might be right. At the least he has a charging system problem. Wrong!!! The RVC system is doing its job. The vehicle computer has made a decision based upon vehicle parameters that 13 volts is the most efficient set point on this vehicle. Replacing the alternator might create a different environment that would cause the set point to again be changed, but it could reset back to 13 volts as soon as the parameters are the same as before.

Now, for what is going on in the alternator is very simple. The RVC system is EXTREMELY slow to respond to increased demands which can creates some issues with keeping voltage consistent in high power stereo systems.

I get this call a lot of times with people and there is a simple solution. Give me a call, send the alternator back and I will send you out a dual kit for a heavily discounted price. In return, you will get an older style, pre RVC regulator and you wont have this issue with the slow response times with the increased load. The next step would be to isolate the factory alternator for just the vehicle and run your D3100 for your amplifiers with the 270XP. Now, I can't speak for the amplifiers shutting off and whatnot, but I can tell you with a properly installed system with a D3100, you shouldn't be having your amps shutting off that fast. I personally ran 4 T2500-1bdCPs with 2 SMD 15s. on a D2400 and Two Odyssey PC2250s in the back with a single run of 0 gauge from the front with a SINGLE 270XP and NEVER had my amplifiers shut off on my hour commute to the shop every day playing full tilt.... Just give me a call today and I will take care of you.

what about mazda3's, I have a 2006 mazda 3 with the same issue, I can only get 160 amps out of it, and 80 during idle, it is a mechman, but what type pcm system is running this alt?

Its a Mechman Alt why not call them ask since thats who will warranty it for you.

was just asking, sheeeshhh


2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd Manual
Pioneer 4300DVD
2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)
Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub Amp
Kicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)
Kicker KQ3 Active Crossover
Kicker KQ30 Equalizer
Kicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)
Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)
2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -)

1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -)

300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker Wire
XS Power D3400 (Rear)
XS Power D3100 (Front)
Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)

+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3

UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments)

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