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I wish someone could for sure tell me what's wrong with my car.


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I've literally been working on my car almost the entire time that i haven't been at work or school, and have replaced things, bought new things, and still can't seem to figure out what is wrong and how to fix it.

It started when i had my APSM 1500 hooked up to my 2 dc level 3 10's..the amp fried due to me running it at .5 for an extended period full tilt. I didn't think anything of it..went about a week and a half without any bass at all.

I then got another brutus 1600 and tried to hook it up, and got no output from it in my car at all. When i hooked it up in my buddy's car it worked fine. So i assumed it was something to do with my wiring because the amp would still power on, just not put any sound out.

After i realized that i wasn't getting any signal from my RCA cables i went and bought another set of those. Still no signal from them, so i checked the back of my headunit, which was a kenwood excelon x395. No signal from the back of the head unit preouts...so then I went to a local shop and grabbed a pioneer x6500bt, which i'm enjoying a little more than my kenwood, other than the lack of the sub control that i have with it, but it sounds a lot cleaner.

Back to the point, I have 2 flxx 15's hooked up to a brutus 1600d that were working fine when i first hooked the head unit up, which was 2 days ago. While I was driving i had them playing full tilt for about 45 minutes straight, nothing was warm though, and the subs cut out. They would cut back on at a low volume though. I assumed my ground had come loose or something, so I checked that and my power wire, and both were fine. After I did that the subs would be weird about when they would play, like half the time they would, half wouldn't, no matter volume, which was weird as fuck. Then i took a look at the amp when that happened. When i looked at the amp i could see that the hifonics logo was still lighting up blue, but the green power light was off and there was no output. I had output when i had the green light on.

I then started thinking about what it could be, so i checked all connections and what not. And today, my voltmeter went out....not the whole voltmeter though, the stinger light still lights up, just doesn't show voltage. The only way i can get the amp to stay on is to run a jumper from +12v from amp to the remote in the amp, but then my amp won't turn off with the car, which is a real problem lol...and at this point i'm stuck. I'm going to try a new remote wire, but idk if that will work or not.

I JUST NEED SOMEONE TO TELL ME WHAT I NEED TO DO, I'M SO FRUSTRATED I JUST WANT THIS TO WORK LOL!

c'mon now, if i was shooting an 8 year old, it wouldnt be MY 8 year old.

i recently got a Pyle PL1590BL and i was building an enclosure for it tuned to 25 hz. i didn't have any tools to cut a circle so i hit it with a big hammer.

2003 Infiniti G35 Sport Sedan

Build in Progress

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Check your battery?

04 dodge dakota ext cab 4x4

excessive amperage 300 amp alt with MONSTER stud =)sundown z v3 15 in a 4th order on aq2200sundown 100.4 2 way active...2 Prv audio 6mb200 & 2 re XXX tweetersdeka intimidatorkenwood x396big 3 1/0 knu wire back to deka intimidator

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Check your battery?

I have a 2 week old group 65 agm (Duracell) which is a rebranded Deka up front..at idle full tilt I wasn't dropping below 14 when it all worked.

c'mon now, if i was shooting an 8 year old, it wouldnt be MY 8 year old.

i recently got a Pyle PL1590BL and i was building an enclosure for it tuned to 25 hz. i didn't have any tools to cut a circle so i hit it with a big hammer.

2003 Infiniti G35 Sport Sedan

Build in Progress

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It sounds to me like your head unit might be messing up, if I was you I would swap it out for another one or buy a cheap one off eBay to use (you could always use a backup anyways) and see if that works, it has to so with the remote wire part of it that's for sure.

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It sounds to me like your head unit might be messing up, if I was you I would swap it out for another one or buy a cheap one off eBay to use (you could always use a backup anyways) and see if that works, it has to so with the remote wire part of it that's for sure.

Yeah I know, I literally just bought this new hu 2 days ago, I'm almost wondering if I just have a short somewhere in my remote wire, although that makes no sense with the voltmeter half ass working along with the amp, they use different remote wires, but do connect to the same one

c'mon now, if i was shooting an 8 year old, it wouldnt be MY 8 year old.

i recently got a Pyle PL1590BL and i was building an enclosure for it tuned to 25 hz. i didn't have any tools to cut a circle so i hit it with a big hammer.

2003 Infiniti G35 Sport Sedan

Build in Progress

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It sounds like there's a short in the remote wire. I'd connect a new one straight from the head unit back and see if it makes a difference. If not, I have no idea.

1999 Honda Civic- RIP

2003 Acura RSX Type-S

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It definitely sounds like a remote wire issue. When I put my new head unit, it would do exactly what yours is doing. It started doing it more and more until my amp wouldn't come back on at all. I pulled the head unit and found that my remote wire had gotten severed from being smushed in a tight spot.

2002 Dodge Dakota 4.7 club cab - Sold 2004 Audi S4 Avant

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136.4 Sealed @ 29hz

137.0 Drivers window open @ 26hz

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There's your probably, is the remote wire severed right at the head unit?

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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That's what I'm checking on as soon as I'm out of class, I hooked up my old remote wire earlier this morning (like 7 am lol) and now I don't have anything at all, not even half ass on.

If the wire is severed right at the harness for the hu what should I do?

c'mon now, if i was shooting an 8 year old, it wouldnt be MY 8 year old.

i recently got a Pyle PL1590BL and i was building an enclosure for it tuned to 25 hz. i didn't have any tools to cut a circle so i hit it with a big hammer.

2003 Infiniti G35 Sport Sedan

Build in Progress

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Me personally see if you can get a wire soldered onto it to fix, if not I'm clueless. That's why when I put my last remote wire in I added some extra length so if I ever had to cut it back I have some room to work with.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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Share on other sites

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