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Posted

I have the setup in for a few months now and never happened before. I've been over some bumpy roads and no cut out. I solder my wires behind the radio but crimp the rest. I was trying a new dvd and had the volume up a bit.. the gain is set a little over half way. The amp is 1 ohm stable.. at least it says it is lol. I know the MB's draw a lot of current compared to others. I have AMAZING head light dim with this set up... As far as over heating...It was one song I had up in volume..I think I might just re wire it all...I have been thinking of doing it once the weather broke...

0/1 Audio Technix power/ground wire..

10 gauge speaker wire

250 HO alternator

Posted

I have the setup in for a few months now and never happened before. I've been over some bumpy roads and no cut out. I solder my wires behind the radio but crimp the rest. I was trying a new dvd and had the volume up a bit.. the gain is set a little over half way. The amp is 1 ohm stable.. at least it says it is lol. I know the MB's draw a lot of current compared to others. I have AMAZING head light dim with this set up... As far as over heating...It was one song I had up in volume..I think I might just re wire it all...I have been thinking of doing it once the weather broke...

0/1 Audio Technix power/ground wire..

10 gauge speaker wire

250 HO alternator

What do you use to crimp?

As stated previously, if you are getting the amp to hot it may go into protect - car being on or off may be superstitious.

CURRENT SYSTEM:

  • Alternator:
    1. Stock alt on mids/highs
    2. Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v
  • Batteries: (2) XS D1400s
  • Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks
  • Headunit: 80-PRS
  • Sub Amp: DC 5.0k
  • Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones
  • Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal.
  • Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4
  • Active Components:
    • Mids RE XXX 6.5c
    • Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar)
  • Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab.

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Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db
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Posted

Crimpers.. I am sure its not a connection problem. It seems to be a power supply problem.. not like turn on/off.. but like the sub is suffocating trying to draw too much or the amp is breathing through a straw.. which may make the amp hot.. That's why I will be re wiring it all just to eliminate any of those probabilities

Posted

Crimpers.. I am sure its not a connection problem. It seems to be a power supply problem.. not like turn on/off.. but like the sub is suffocating trying to draw too much or the amp is breathing through a straw.. which may make the amp hot.. That's why I will be re wiring it all just to eliminate any of those probabilities

A common misconception people have is that subs draw power from the amp. The only thing a sub does is take the power the amp gives it, and uses it. So there's one thing you can eliminate.

2002 Dodge Dakota 4.7 club cab - Sold 2004 Audi S4 Avant

- Fi and Crescendo - Stock Bose System

- http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147725-2002-dodge-dakota-end-of-the-road/?hl=%202002%20%20dakota

136.4 Sealed @ 29hz

137.0 Drivers window open @ 26hz

Posted

you would be surprised on how sometimes the smallest thing can cause some weird stuff to happen

Posted

it could be voltage drop issues

my re amps started doing that.. i could play full tilt and wanging then after a few minutes the bass goes low if i keep playing it will go into protect. funny thing is i lower the volume a bit down and it gets loud again

Posted

where is your ground run to? i saw you had said you removed the paint so i am assuming it is on the body of the vehicle? i would try moving the ground to the frame and see if that helps at all.

Posted

Crimpers.. I am sure its not a connection problem. It seems to be a power supply problem.. not like turn on/off.. but like the sub is suffocating trying to draw too much or the amp is breathing through a straw.. which may make the amp hot.. That's why I will be re wiring it all just to eliminate any of those probabilities

hydraulic crimpers, crimper pliers, crimp press??? Lots of variation there. If you have an poor crimp you can cause heat and voltage drop which = bad for your amp , over heating and cutting off. The ground as mentioned would be a good place to look too.

CURRENT SYSTEM:

  • Alternator:
    1. Stock alt on mids/highs
    2. Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v
  • Batteries: (2) XS D1400s
  • Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks
  • Headunit: 80-PRS
  • Sub Amp: DC 5.0k
  • Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones
  • Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal.
  • Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4
  • Active Components:
    • Mids RE XXX 6.5c
    • Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar)
  • Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab.

Build Log

If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD

 
Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db
Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
Posted

I have the setup in for a few months now and never happened before. I've been over some bumpy roads and no cut out. I solder my wires behind the radio but crimp the rest. I was trying a new dvd and had the volume up a bit.. the gain is set a little over half way. The amp is 1 ohm stable.. at least it says it is lol. I know the MB's draw a lot of current compared to others. I have AMAZING head light dim with this set up... As far as over heating...It was one song I had up in volume..I think I might just re wire it all...I have been thinking of doing it once the weather broke...

0/1 Audio Technix power/ground wire..

10 gauge speaker wire

250 HO alternator

That sounds very that it is low voltage.

"in the abundance of water, the fool is thirsty" Bob Marley

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